Bypass radiator for trans cooler?
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Anyone bypassing there radiator and just using the trans cooler as a stand alone? If so, how`s it working for ya? I`ve been thinking about using a trans cooler with a cooling fan and just routing the coolant lines directly to the remote cooler. It seems to me that you could achive better cooling by bypassing the radiator and not soaking up the heat from it and the engine coolant. What do you guys think?
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I have a TH400 with a transbrake running to a B&M Super Cooler. I mounted the cooler to the AC condenser in the very front of the car. I bypassed the radiator and am running fine on the streets/highway and the track. I have a trans temp guage mounted in my gauge pillar. I asked around about whether or not I had to run through my radiator, everyone I talked to said the cooler alone was fine.
Lee
Lee
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Thanks for the reply Lee. Where did you install the temp. sending unit for the guage, the out put line going to the cooler?
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I think that is fine. Remote with a fan will be plenty of cooling, but adds to your electrical load.
Some people bypass and use a 24k GVW cooler and rely on the stock fans to provide the extra air flow. If you a 160 T-stat that may do the trick.
I use a 160 T-stat so the coolant temp is low enough not to cause heat soak except in rare occasions.
Some people bypass and use a 24k GVW cooler and rely on the stock fans to provide the extra air flow. If you a 160 T-stat that may do the trick.
I use a 160 T-stat so the coolant temp is low enough not to cause heat soak except in rare occasions.
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I bought a Autometer Trans Temp guage. It screws right into the side of my tranny. There was a little bolt above the shifting linkage that is used to mount trans temp sensors on the TH400's. I'm not sure if other tranny's have this. You can buy an inline temp sensor from like B&M. Just make sure you install it somewhere in the outgoing trans line from the tranny. You want to know what the of the fluid is coming out. But if you have a TH400 I would say the autometer, it took me 10 minutes to completely install.
Lee
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I use a 160 thermo with fan settings, a small tranny cooler (because I have a FTRA kit and cannot fit a larger one.) The fluid is routed through the radiator (extra cooling capacity for when the fluid gets hotter than the coolant) and then through the tranny cooler.
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FYI Colonel you can fit a 24,000 GVW B&M beside the FTRA. I had it on my Hawk until I converted the hood to ram the air in and sealed it there.
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Thanks for the info Ragtop. Does the 24k gvw cooler have larger input/return lines? I was thinking about changing the fittings on the trans and going to a -6 or -8 AN line and run braided hose to route the lines a little better. Anyone try this?
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Is the top or bottom line on the transmission the return line? I talked with a freind of mine and he said the bottom so I installed mine on the bottom line.
I didn't think it was a big enough topic to start another thread for though and I figured you guys could help me out.
Josh S.
I didn't think it was a big enough topic to start another thread for though and I figured you guys could help me out.
Josh S.
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The "cooler is better" theory suggests that
you should run it through the radiator first
(shed what heat you are able, there) and then
through the external trans cooler.
The bottom line on the radiator is going to
be your suction side.
Since the tranny coolers are pretty small,
here's a thought - a couple of 12V PC muffin
fans and an aluminum shroud (often, you can
find both of these at electronics surplus
stores) rigged to fit. You can then divorce
the whole thing from the A/C condenser /
radiator / sometimes-on-fans stack. The
muffin fans draw maybe an amp, usually less,
and have decent flow. You could wire them
for full time run, or use a SELCO thermostat
to hit once fluid temp gets over (say) 170F.
you should run it through the radiator first
(shed what heat you are able, there) and then
through the external trans cooler.
The bottom line on the radiator is going to
be your suction side.
Since the tranny coolers are pretty small,
here's a thought - a couple of 12V PC muffin
fans and an aluminum shroud (often, you can
find both of these at electronics surplus
stores) rigged to fit. You can then divorce
the whole thing from the A/C condenser /
radiator / sometimes-on-fans stack. The
muffin fans draw maybe an amp, usually less,
and have decent flow. You could wire them
for full time run, or use a SELCO thermostat
to hit once fluid temp gets over (say) 170F.
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</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by OBSSSD:
<strong> FYI Colonel you can fit a 24,000 GVW B&M beside the FTRA. I had it on my Hawk until I converted the hood to ram the air in and sealed it there. </strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">I don't know what size mine is. It's the largest one that would fit flush against the radiator beside the FTRA. There is very little, if any, extra space. I had a larger one on my '00 but it had to be cocked cattycornered and zip tied funkily to fit. I just didn't like that even though it worked great.
<strong> FYI Colonel you can fit a 24,000 GVW B&M beside the FTRA. I had it on my Hawk until I converted the hood to ram the air in and sealed it there. </strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">I don't know what size mine is. It's the largest one that would fit flush against the radiator beside the FTRA. There is very little, if any, extra space. I had a larger one on my '00 but it had to be cocked cattycornered and zip tied funkily to fit. I just didn't like that even though it worked great.
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I`ve never seen FTRA (or equiv.) ram air set up installed first hand but have been considering buying one. I have my A/C removed. Would the condensor not being there free up enough room to allow for a larger (ie. 24k GVW) cooler to fit with a ram air set up? I would also think that with the absence of the condensor, when the fans did come on it would allow a little more air to be pulled through the trans cooler. What do you think?
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With the A/C condensor removed, you have tons of room for any size cooler you choose.
the 24K B&M supercooler is actually pretty small because it is 2 rows thick (rather than 1) so the length and width are pretty similar to a 16K cooler.
Yes without the A/C, the fans will definitely suck air through the cooler better. However, the fans may also run less frequently for the same reason. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Wink]" src="gr_images/icons/wink.gif" />
the 24K B&M supercooler is actually pretty small because it is 2 rows thick (rather than 1) so the length and width are pretty similar to a 16K cooler.
Yes without the A/C, the fans will definitely suck air through the cooler better. However, the fans may also run less frequently for the same reason. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Wink]" src="gr_images/icons/wink.gif" />
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Thanks Ragtop. Good point about the fans. I think I`ll try a 24k cooler as a stand alone (bypass the radiator) and have my fan "on" temps lowered when I get my tuning done. I might add a trans temp guage to make SURE she isn`t getting too hot.
Thanks again!
Thanks again!