RICEETER

iTrader: (49)

ok, i know they sell them but dont ever see anyone running one. i would like to know why. i AM aware that all the gears will be manually shifted (up AND down). someone enlighten me on the pro's and cons of this please. and personally i would think it would hold up alot longer considering that it wont have electronics any more. also what about the lockup in the converter (is there an easy way to keep this option)?

Gilbert@Ace Racing

I took one of our Manual Conversions around the block earlier today. I really like them myself.

Lock up is a non issue... if done right it will retain that function with ease.

g

PBA

The TransGo full "manual setup" is the only way to go as this will keep the front pump alive. The transmission has to be built right, and you need to know how to drive it so as to get the maximum durability out of it. Personally I drove TH400's that were using the TransGo forward pattern "full manual" setups many years ago, and sometimes you can get tired of shifting it if it is a "daily driver". The advantage of using the TransGo setup is that you can change it back to full automatic just by dropping the valve body and reversing the changes you made.

Gilbert@Ace Racing

I agree... running a MVB on the strret can get real old, real quick.

We do use the TG kit you referenced and would not consider partially installing it. To a man the guys we have installed this for have been very pleased. I must add that a high quality shifter is highly recommended... I prefer to see guys run the B&M Pro Ratchet model.

As of yet we have not been asked to reverse the build.

g

RICEETER

iTrader: (49)

PBA, what exactly do you mean by "get the maximum drivability out of it"? and do you have a part # or a place where i can buy that Full Manual Setup?

Ratchthed, i agree about the shifter. i had already planned to go with the B&M Quicksilver.

what do you guys think about the life of the tranny. do you think it might last longer without the electronics? .....or hold more power, should i say?

Gilbert@Ace Racing

We have found that the MVB units survive well in high h/p, high RPM, high lap count cars. Keep in mind there is no reason to run one in a mild combination. The ones we have out there are in cars that are 90% track duty units.... grudge cars. I can't say as it would be the right setup for a bracket racer who needs consistancy. But that being said it could be set up with an air shifter or a solenoid controlled shift. But at the end of the day if you get that serious I can't say the 60E is the right unit for a hard core bracket combination... not the worst by far... just maybe not the best choice.

As far as the pieces and parts.... I do not recommend piecing this hardware together. It was designed to be used in union with the complete kit. Personally I would not do it, why reinvent the wheel and make the job harder? Sure it could be done, but I do not see the point.

g

BlueThunder2

iTrader: (3)

Does anything else have to be redone to the tranny to run a manual valve body? Does the auto tranny function have to be turned off in the computer?

Gilbert@Ace Racing

No not necessarily... the pcm will set a few codes because the solenoids are not present and so on.... but it will function properly.

Of course I do recommend that the tune be adjusted for the changes.

g

indirocz28

iTrader: (7)

Ratchthed is right,

What needs to be done is- you go in and just tell the computer that it is a 6 speed trans car, but then just change the driveshaft pulses per revolution- just count the teeth on the reluctor wheel in the tail housing and put that into the data blank in your programming.

I dont think you'll have to mess with the speedometer scalars in the rest of the settings..