ok im hoping i can fit an 80e in my conversion but i wont know for sure until i do...i know a 60 will fit and i dont mind doing a little massaging to the tunnel to make it fit but i wont know for sure until i get an 80e to try out...so does anyone know where a broken 80e case is that i can get cheap...or a foam one...or even a good core that i can buy and resell to get my money back if it wont fit...

i havent even looked into prices on them yet so let me know some basic prices???
...i know the 97? and later ones are the ones that i want to get
this will be going behind a ls1

 

You can use a 94 if you want thats what year im using on my ls1. Sure it doesnt have the top bolt but thats a pain to put back in anyway. I heard the 93's and lower had a different wiring harness but im pretty sure you could convert it to a 94+ style.

 

i think the 97 up ones had lines in a differant spot that helped cool a bearing that sometimes goes bad? maybe im on something but i think thats what i read...i think i just found a 97 one for 400 bux...starting to slip in reverse...good buy or no?

 

Yea they might of but I heard it wasnt a huge problem they just kinda updated it.

 

400 needing a rebuild is kinda high. I bought mine with 30k out of a 2003 truck for 850 works like a dream. I just saw a mid 90's go for 200 bucks somewhere i believe it worked fine also, i thought about picking it up.

 

The 97 has the lube return from the radiator to the center support in the middle of the case on the passenger side. This was not for a bearing problem. 91-96 are up front. Cores in Michigan are between 200.00-500.00. They are starting to come down, finally. Whatever you do, make sure your builder addresses the pressure regulator valve and sleeve assy. I would get a reprogram kit that has the blow off valve in the reverse circuit as not to break the band, piston, or drum, such as Transgo. Hope this helps.

 

so you can identify the good version from the bad by where the return line is? im assuming the early version had the lines next to eachtoehr stacked like a 60-e
and the better 97+ version were one up front the other about 10 inches further back

 

To be honest, there is no bad 4L80E. If you find the right builder, they are all good. I had just got done building 2 late model 4WD plow trucks. Both busted bands, no reverse. The 97-up has the return line back in the middle of the case which returns into the centersupport. I've seen guys try to pry the centersupport out and don't know to remove the cooler line fitting. I'm still running a 4L75E, (very late 4L60E). I'm stroking my motor to 382 as I spun a bearing on the last pass, of the last race of the year. I see alot of guys wanting to put in an 80, but a good 60 will work fine. It has a better first gear,3.07, and uses less power and weighes less. I've got a little under 700HP with the juice, and have been beating this trans for 2 years. This year, the 382 will definately put this trans to the test. I'll take it down to Rich at W2W so the dyno results will be uncontested as far as bullshit goes. The motor should be 485HP-525HP. The NX kit will be ramped up to 300HP, launching at 50HP. I have a Vigilante 3800 that works flawlessly. I drive this thing everywhere. The reason I'm pumping the 60 is I see alot of guys having trouble with them. Most of the guys on this site that drive on the street and have some track time are under 650HP from what I can tell. I just want to help people out with a proven package that will live with proper driving and maintanance. There are some other companies on this site that seem to be able to help also. I've been building for 32 years out of Detroit. This LS1 stuff is like a 2nd childhood. I remember 350's and 400's giving guys **** in the 70's. It takes bucks so don't cheap out fellas. Do it right the first time. I'll keep you guys posted on the strength of the 60 for your knowledge in the spring. Right now I'm going to ride my sled, (200HP Cat). Hope this helps.

 

93- an lower different wiring harness

 

i daily drive my 60-e with about 650 rwhp in a stock ls1 with a cam and nitrous....i know it will hold but this is a turbo car and i need to have a trans brake or im going to have to use nitrous also...id rather just use a trans brake and lose a little hp through that tranny...otheriwse i gota add wiring and a bottle where ive gota watch bottle pressure ect...plus this build id going to be 1000+ fwhp