Firehawk#286

Just purchased a '99 Firehawk with 64k. Don't know the history of the transmission (re: service), so I want to change the filter and fluid.

1) Does the 4L60E transm. pan have a drain plug (for a simple drain and fill)?
2) There are two schools of thought on drain & fill -vs- flush, and I don't want to beat a dead horse, nor start a "warring of the factions" with the next question. What are each of you doing to YOUR trannys, d&f or flush?

AcademyRumblebees

Mine just turned over 50K miles, took it in to dealership for an

Oil change ( german castrol 0w-30)
Tranny flush
rear diff fluid change


about to do a coolant flush tomorrow



I think flushing is just fine. At 100K, I will drop the pan and change the filter. But my fluid in my tranny was still really pink, so I figured a flush couldnt hurt.

Car runs like a champ, tranny shifts great

pat

406malibu

just D&F, flushing can cause all the metal shavings to be dislodged and go to trans filter clogging it up.... Draining and filling is sufficient for servicing your transmission.

9000th01ss

iTrader: (10)

Thats why you'd change the filter after that procedure.

These cars don't come with factory drain plugs, so you have to drop the pan to drain it. Then change the filter.
As everyone knows, only about 1/3 of the fluid comes out this way, thats why the recommended fluid change interval is close. Because the 2/3 that stays in gets diluted with new fluid--not a big deal at low mileage.
But if your miles are 150,000+ or dark fluid you might consider a flush to get as much out as you can.
Otherwise change it regularly.

Firehawk#286

Are the 4L60E tranny pans RTV'd at the factory, have preformed cork-style gaskets, or have preformed re-usable rubber-style gaskets?

9000th01ss

iTrader: (10)

No, I forgot what my original gasket was made of. It's not like the plastic frame with rubber o ring like on my 4L80E thats for sure.
I have a cork gasket on there now and I think I've retorqued it four times so far and it finally stopped leaking.
And I do use an inch pound torque wrench each time.

Firehawk#286

One last thing, how easily does the pan come off, and the filter come out? Other than the obvious 16 bolts holding the pan on, what else needs to be taken off / disconnected / etc. in order for the pan to come off and the filter to come out? Any links to writeups on this procedure would be appreciated. (My Haynes manual doesn't explain this procedure very well....sorry)

9000th01ss

iTrader: (10)

Take the pan off slowly and have a big pan to catch the fluid. Usually loosen all the bolts on three sides and take them out letting the pan hang down and dump all over the place.
Then, when you're done cleaning up, check the pan for dirt, metal, etc. Pull the filter out.
All this time fluids going to be dripping out of everywhere. Put the new filter in and be sure it fits tight on the seal, if it fits tight, reuse the seal. Most people post on here about having a hard time changing it. And in response a lot of people reuse it if it fits tight.
Thats about it, clean the pan, put it and the new gasket back on, torque it to specs or until the gasket just barely starts to bulge out near the bolt.
Usually if you go around the pan several times you will find the bolts get loose as you go so you need to go around it a few times.

Oh yea, if you want to keep up on trans fluid changes, get a drain plug. Most parts stores have them. You need a drill and 1/2" bit to install it. I've always welded mine in to ensure it doesn't leak, if you want to do that take it to a welding/sheet metal shop and pay $10-$20 for that.
You'll like the idea after you pull it the first time with no plug.

9000th01ss

iTrader: (10)

One other thing, if you use ramps to get the car up be damn sure you have the parking brake set and the wheels blocked. Two of the pan bolts hold the shift cable, if you get that off and it gets bumped out of park it'll want to roll.

Firehawk#286

Thx for the tips. I was wondering if there was anything particular holding the pan on or filter in place...that had to be unbolted/removed/etc. On my Jeep's pan, you must remove the tranny dipstick tube before the pan will drop down.

I was already thinking about how I could incorporate a drain plug into the process. I was thinking about replacing the pan with an aftermarket one, one that has a drain plug. Does such an animal exist?

Firehawk#286

Just answered one of my own questions....well, sort of. I was cruising Jegs.com and found many aftermarket pans, but only one seems to fit the 4L60E.....

Link: http://www.jegs.com/i/TCI/890/378010/10002/-1/748607|10539

Jegs carries their own brand name pans as well, but the one they have that fits the 4L60 apparently does NOT also fit the 4L60E (why, I am not sure). Sure wish I could find a complete pan, with plug, for under $100 !

Here's a link to a drain plug kit that might be of interest to some of you DIYer's, as well:

Link: http://www.jegs.com/p/JEGS/752949/10002/-1/10539

staringback05

iTrader: (8)

...i presonally wouldnt ever just drain...seems like the cheap way of getting out of something and you also leave 2/3 of the old fluid still in the tranny

flush and just dump some dex 6 in it...

9000th01ss

iTrader: (10)

My suggestion is to drain it with a drain plug, hell you could drain it into a coffee can instead of a 30" diameter pan you'd need when you take the pan off and let it dump.
I suggest to drain it then take the pan off to do the rest.

9000th01ss

iTrader: (10)

It fits the 4L60 because they do not have shift solenoids like 4L60E's have.
A 4L60E specific pan has dimples facing out to make room for the solenoids.
There are some out there, I don't know off the top of my head though.

Firehawk#286

My last experience with a tranny flush was enough to keep me from ever doing it again, I think. We had the tranny in our old Durango flushed....within two weeks the tranny went out! Coincidence? Most all the techs and service writers that I know and trust (at least trust as far as to not feel like they're trying to sell me more than I need everytime...and that IS the writer's sole purpose for being), tell me that a periodic d&f is sufficient. And the big metal filters in these trannys are only good for stopping the largest particles from circulating thru anyway. My wife's Honda Odyssey's owner's manual specifically suggests against a flush, and recommends periodic d&f's.

So, based on my last experience with flushs, and the $210 the stealership wants for doing the job...I think I'll d&f it myself. Thx all.

01ssreda4

iTrader: (96)

i wont flush mine. but i do replace the filter when i drop the pan. i welded a drain plug in mine so i can remove the fluid before dropping the pan, making it less messy.

blitzd247

iTrader: (9)

I just changed mine at 27k for the second time and the magnet in my pan looked like it was cover in mud. i recomend taking the pan off putting a bung in , cleaning out.

01ssreda4

iTrader: (96)

great advise