Transmission service ?
Thread Starter
On The Tree
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 103
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From: St.Charles, MO
Transmission service ? Just purchased a '99 Firehawk with 64k. Don't know the history of the transmission (re: service), so I want to change the filter and fluid.
1) Does the 4L60E transm. pan have a drain plug (for a simple drain and fill)?
2) There are two schools of thought on drain & fill -vs- flush, and I don't want to beat a dead horse, nor start a "warring of the factions" with the next question. What are each of you doing to YOUR trannys, d&f or flush?
1) Does the 4L60E transm. pan have a drain plug (for a simple drain and fill)?
2) There are two schools of thought on drain & fill -vs- flush, and I don't want to beat a dead horse, nor start a "warring of the factions" with the next question. What are each of you doing to YOUR trannys, d&f or flush?
Staging Lane
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 51
Likes: 0
Mine just turned over 50K miles, took it in to dealership for an
Oil change ( german castrol 0w-30)
Tranny flush
rear diff fluid change
about to do a coolant flush tomorrow
I think flushing is just fine. At 100K, I will drop the pan and change the filter. But my fluid in my tranny was still really pink, so I figured a flush couldnt hurt.
Car runs like a champ, tranny shifts great
pat
Oil change ( german castrol 0w-30)
Tranny flush
rear diff fluid change
about to do a coolant flush tomorrow
I think flushing is just fine. At 100K, I will drop the pan and change the filter. But my fluid in my tranny was still really pink, so I figured a flush couldnt hurt.
Car runs like a champ, tranny shifts great
pat
These cars don't come with factory drain plugs, so you have to drop the pan to drain it. Then change the filter.
As everyone knows, only about 1/3 of the fluid comes out this way, thats why the recommended fluid change interval is close. Because the 2/3 that stays in gets diluted with new fluid--not a big deal at low mileage.
But if your miles are 150,000+ or dark fluid you might consider a flush to get as much out as you can.
Otherwise change it regularly.
I have a cork gasket on there now and I think I've retorqued it four times so far and it finally stopped leaking.
And I do use an inch pound torque wrench each time.
Thread Starter
On The Tree
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 103
Likes: 0
From: St.Charles, MO
One last thing, how easily does the pan come off, and the filter come out? Other than the obvious 16 bolts holding the pan on, what else needs to be taken off / disconnected / etc. in order for the pan to come off and the filter to come out? Any links to writeups on this procedure would be appreciated. (My Haynes manual doesn't explain this procedure very well....sorry) 
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Take the pan off slowly and have a big pan to catch the fluid. Usually loosen all the bolts on three sides and take them out letting the pan hang down and dump all over the place.
Then, when you're done cleaning up, check the pan for dirt, metal, etc. Pull the filter out.
All this time fluids going to be dripping out of everywhere. Put the new filter in and be sure it fits tight on the seal, if it fits tight, reuse the seal. Most people post on here about having a hard time changing it. And in response a lot of people reuse it if it fits tight.
Thats about it, clean the pan, put it and the new gasket back on, torque it to specs or until the gasket just barely starts to bulge out near the bolt.
Usually if you go around the pan several times you will find the bolts get loose as you go so you need to go around it a few times.
Oh yea, if you want to keep up on trans fluid changes, get a drain plug. Most parts stores have them. You need a drill and 1/2" bit to install it. I've always welded mine in to ensure it doesn't leak, if you want to do that take it to a welding/sheet metal shop and pay $10-$20 for that.
You'll like the idea after you pull it the first time with no plug.
Then, when you're done cleaning up, check the pan for dirt, metal, etc. Pull the filter out.
All this time fluids going to be dripping out of everywhere. Put the new filter in and be sure it fits tight on the seal, if it fits tight, reuse the seal. Most people post on here about having a hard time changing it. And in response a lot of people reuse it if it fits tight.
Thats about it, clean the pan, put it and the new gasket back on, torque it to specs or until the gasket just barely starts to bulge out near the bolt.
Usually if you go around the pan several times you will find the bolts get loose as you go so you need to go around it a few times.
Oh yea, if you want to keep up on trans fluid changes, get a drain plug. Most parts stores have them. You need a drill and 1/2" bit to install it. I've always welded mine in to ensure it doesn't leak, if you want to do that take it to a welding/sheet metal shop and pay $10-$20 for that.
You'll like the idea after you pull it the first time with no plug.
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Verdad Gallardo One other thing, if you use ramps to get the car up be damn sure you have the parking brake set and the wheels blocked. Two of the pan bolts hold the shift cable, if you get that off and it gets bumped out of park it'll want to roll.
Thread Starter
On The Tree
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 103
Likes: 0
From: St.Charles, MO
Take the pan off slowly and have a big pan to catch the fluid. Usually loosen all the bolts on three sides and take them out letting the pan hang down and dump all over the place.
Then, when you're done cleaning up, check the pan for dirt, metal, etc. Pull the filter out.
All this time fluids going to be dripping out of everywhere. Put the new filter in and be sure it fits tight on the seal, if it fits tight, reuse the seal. Most people post on here about having a hard time changing it. And in response a lot of people reuse it if it fits tight.
Thats about it, clean the pan, put it and the new gasket back on, torque it to specs or until the gasket just barely starts to bulge out near the bolt.
Usually if you go around the pan several times you will find the bolts get loose as you go so you need to go around it a few times.
Oh yea, if you want to keep up on trans fluid changes, get a drain plug. Most parts stores have them. You need a drill and 1/2" bit to install it. I've always welded mine in to ensure it doesn't leak, if you want to do that take it to a welding/sheet metal shop and pay $10-$20 for that.
You'll like the idea after you pull it the first time with no plug.
Then, when you're done cleaning up, check the pan for dirt, metal, etc. Pull the filter out.
All this time fluids going to be dripping out of everywhere. Put the new filter in and be sure it fits tight on the seal, if it fits tight, reuse the seal. Most people post on here about having a hard time changing it. And in response a lot of people reuse it if it fits tight.
Thats about it, clean the pan, put it and the new gasket back on, torque it to specs or until the gasket just barely starts to bulge out near the bolt.
Usually if you go around the pan several times you will find the bolts get loose as you go so you need to go around it a few times.
Oh yea, if you want to keep up on trans fluid changes, get a drain plug. Most parts stores have them. You need a drill and 1/2" bit to install it. I've always welded mine in to ensure it doesn't leak, if you want to do that take it to a welding/sheet metal shop and pay $10-$20 for that.
You'll like the idea after you pull it the first time with no plug.
I was already thinking about how I could incorporate a drain plug into the process. I was thinking about replacing the pan with an aftermarket one, one that has a drain plug. Does such an animal exist?
Thread Starter
On The Tree
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 103
Likes: 0
From: St.Charles, MO
Just answered one of my own questions....well, sort of. I was cruising Jegs.com and found many aftermarket pans, but only one seems to fit the 4L60E.....
Link: http://www.jegs.com/i/TCI/890/378010/10002/-1/748607|10539
Jegs carries their own brand name pans as well, but the one they have that fits the 4L60 apparently does NOT also fit the 4L60E (why, I am not sure). Sure wish I could find a complete pan, with plug, for under $100 !
Here's a link to a drain plug kit that might be of interest to some of you DIYer's, as well:
Link: http://www.jegs.com/p/JEGS/752949/10002/-1/10539
Link: http://www.jegs.com/i/TCI/890/378010/10002/-1/748607|10539
Jegs carries their own brand name pans as well, but the one they have that fits the 4L60 apparently does NOT also fit the 4L60E (why, I am not sure). Sure wish I could find a complete pan, with plug, for under $100 !
Here's a link to a drain plug kit that might be of interest to some of you DIYer's, as well:
Link: http://www.jegs.com/p/JEGS/752949/10002/-1/10539
...i presonally wouldnt ever just drain...seems like the cheap way of getting out of something and you also leave 2/3 of the old fluid still in the tranny 
flush and just dump some dex 6 in it...
flush and just dump some dex 6 in it...
I suggest to drain it then take the pan off to do the rest.
A 4L60E specific pan has dimples facing out to make room for the solenoids.
There are some out there, I don't know off the top of my head though.
Thread Starter
On The Tree
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 103
Likes: 0
From: St.Charles, MO
So, based on my last experience with flushs, and the $210 the stealership wants for doing the job...I think I'll d&f it myself. Thx all.
Last edited by Firehawk#286; May 20, 2008 at 06:24 PM.
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 24,241
Likes: 89
From: Turnin' Wrenches Infractions: 005
i wont flush mine. but i do replace the filter when i drop the pan. i welded a drain plug in mine so i can remove the fluid before dropping the pan, making it less messy.
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 24,241
Likes: 89
From: Turnin' Wrenches Infractions: 005
