vlavsky

I'm thinking of getting cams for my 04 V and need some advice.
1- do I need to install anything else with cam
2- which ones to get as I want something that won't vibrate too much , also how bad does it vibrate?
3- does it effect reliability in anyway
4- how much would it run 4 installation
Thanks in advance any advice will be much appreciated

SkullV

iTrader: (11)

Not sure about any of your questions, but the CTS-V has a pushrod motor and only has one cam.

madmaro00

iTrader: (6)

1 - You will need new valve springs, and those will depend on the cam you choose.
2 - Different cams will have a rougher idle than others. Many threads are available with people who have installed different cams. The closer the lobe separation and durations to a stock cam will determine how nasty the cam will be.
3 - If you go with too large of a cam it WILL effect driveability, and potentially reliability.
4 - Installation price will vary from state to state and shop to shop. Depending on where you live maybe somebody can recommend a good one. It is strongly suggested to get a custom tune when changing the cam, those vary in price as well, I think around $500 for a good tune is typical. From my experiences, plan on probably on $1500-$2000 to buy a cam & springs, installation, and a good tune. Don't go cheap because you can take out other components on your vehicle.

trukk

iTrader: (1)

Take a look at this, for all the info about my cam install:

https://ls1tech.com/forums/dynamomet...p-45-rwtq.html

I probabaly went overboard, but mine is a daily driver, so I wanted the performance and the reliability, thus had to pay to get both.

You can go as cheap or as expensive as you want.

The rule of thumb is:

Cheap, Powerfull, Reliable; pick 2.

-Chris

adanieljohnson1

iTrader: (1)

so what power are you putting down to the crate? I forgot what the % is!

-T-

iTrader: (2)

FAST

RELIABLE

CHEAP

You can only have two of the three... so pick wisely!

adanieljohnson1

iTrader: (1)

Hows this

vlavsky

I don't want it b too rough, matter of fact I don't want it to be too far from stock what would you guys recommend?

-T-

iTrader: (2)

Keep the LSA at around 115-116. That will keep the idle smoother. Our stock cam LSA is 117.5.

Full cam specs: 204/218 .551/.551 (may be .541 ex) 117.5 LSA

If you go to a small 220-222(int.)/ 228-232(exh.) 115-116 LSA... it should be about what you are wanting.

You may gain 30RWHP with it tuned to the cam. This will still cost somewhere around $2K installed and tuned.

Generally:
Cam - 400
Tune - 500
Installs are typically $50/hr. Given the amount of work it will take to do the cam swap... 20 hours. This is where you would also want to upgrade parts of the valvetrain, technically a free install. Rocker arms, push rods LS7 lifters and LS2 lifter trays.

I believe the stock LS6 valve springs are rated to .560". If you go any higher lift than stock, i would upgrade the springs while your at it.




This is my $0.02. I am no where near an expert. I do not claim that i know more than others. There is a higher percentage on the board that know more than know less. This is what i have researched for myself. I wouldn't want all that time to go to waste.

I am looking at a high 22#/low 23# and 114 LSA cam. Lift just under .600"
This cam should net 45-50rwhp after tune.

cam (with upgraded valvetrain), Kooks, hi-flow cats, x-pipe, magnaflow mufflers, 100 dry shot should get me to 485-500RWHP.

onebadcad

iTrader: (1)

I thought if you stayed under 600, not 560, you are good to go with just the swap?!?!? Then again, never listen to me, I always overbuy and overbitch!!!-well except for Truk, that dude is Captain Overkill. If I was NA and planning on staying that way, I would go really big, as nothing is better than a lopey motor sounding like it is ready to stall.

deedubb

iTrader: (9)

AMEN. I love that lub lub lub lub sound!

-T-

iTrader: (2)

I was told, (and could only find one spec sheet) on the .560"

Im going to .590's... might as well get better springs while im in there.

trukk

iTrader: (1)

LOL...ya that's me.

My car is a daily driver, and I take it to the road course, so it had to be reliable, and perform good. That definately meant cheap was not in the equasion.

-chris