Attack of the CEL's/NAV Notifications
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Today must have been a record for CEL/NAV pop-ups for me.
It started with "Battery Not Charging", which could be the alternator or voltage wire sensor, early in the morning. It would trigger between moderate braking/downshifts so something was definitely shorting. I then get a "Service Vehicle Soon" light. I manage to make it to work but its obvious the car is dealer bound tomorrow since I'm still under GMPP.
![](http://www.divinityracing.com/Cel/cel1.jpg)
The "Battery Not Charging" pop-ups continue on the way back home and then suddenly I get another notification. "Service Steering System" and "Service Stability System". I was only able to take a pic of the steering one but both would pop-up one after the other. I've had the SWPS replaced before not that long ago.
![](http://www.divinityracing.com/Cel/cel2.jpg)
Continuing the journey home, I get yet another pop-up telling me "Stability System Ready" and the other two steering pop-ups are not seen again. I guess it's really ready for service now!
![](http://www.divinityracing.com/Cel/cel3.jpg)
Then I start noticing that my ABS light is flickering followed by a stable light throughout the rest of the trip. Traction Control is no longer showing a switchable status and is permanently off.
![](http://www.divinityracing.com/Cel/cel4.jpg)
Following up to my voltage pop-up, I get the "Battery Saver Active" notification which is supposed to pop-up if you leave accessories/lights one with the ignition forward for long periods of time. I turn off all non-essential items at that point (heat/radio/Navy).
![](http://www.divinityracing.com/Cel/cel5.jpg)
As I pull up to my driveway, I get my final nav notice, "Battery Voltage Low". I park my car and then suddenly my nav starts reseting itself followed by my dash lights/headlights flickering and then eternal darkness with only the radio buttons showing a slight amount of power.
![](http://www.divinityracing.com/Cel/cel6.jpg)
I did check the battery and it was held down tight with the terminals being tight as well. Battery is about a year old but it is a Delco battery so it would not surprise me if it craps out especially if my alternator is going out.
The best part about all this, I crank the car and it turns right back on with everything reset on the driving parameters and a decent 13.4 voltage is shown. Hopefully my technician will still be able to grab all those CEL's and source the issues.
Its times like this I wish I had a V2 lol!
It started with "Battery Not Charging", which could be the alternator or voltage wire sensor, early in the morning. It would trigger between moderate braking/downshifts so something was definitely shorting. I then get a "Service Vehicle Soon" light. I manage to make it to work but its obvious the car is dealer bound tomorrow since I'm still under GMPP.
![](http://www.divinityracing.com/Cel/cel1.jpg)
The "Battery Not Charging" pop-ups continue on the way back home and then suddenly I get another notification. "Service Steering System" and "Service Stability System". I was only able to take a pic of the steering one but both would pop-up one after the other. I've had the SWPS replaced before not that long ago.
![](http://www.divinityracing.com/Cel/cel2.jpg)
Continuing the journey home, I get yet another pop-up telling me "Stability System Ready" and the other two steering pop-ups are not seen again. I guess it's really ready for service now!
![](http://www.divinityracing.com/Cel/cel3.jpg)
Then I start noticing that my ABS light is flickering followed by a stable light throughout the rest of the trip. Traction Control is no longer showing a switchable status and is permanently off.
![](http://www.divinityracing.com/Cel/cel4.jpg)
Following up to my voltage pop-up, I get the "Battery Saver Active" notification which is supposed to pop-up if you leave accessories/lights one with the ignition forward for long periods of time. I turn off all non-essential items at that point (heat/radio/Navy).
![](http://www.divinityracing.com/Cel/cel5.jpg)
As I pull up to my driveway, I get my final nav notice, "Battery Voltage Low". I park my car and then suddenly my nav starts reseting itself followed by my dash lights/headlights flickering and then eternal darkness with only the radio buttons showing a slight amount of power.
![](http://www.divinityracing.com/Cel/cel6.jpg)
I did check the battery and it was held down tight with the terminals being tight as well. Battery is about a year old but it is a Delco battery so it would not surprise me if it craps out especially if my alternator is going out.
The best part about all this, I crank the car and it turns right back on with everything reset on the driving parameters and a decent 13.4 voltage is shown. Hopefully my technician will still be able to grab all those CEL's and source the issues.
Its times like this I wish I had a V2 lol!
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Well, I managed to make it to the dealer. I went to Weil Cadillac in Libertyville since I've experienced good service with them in the past....up to this point at least.
They take my car in and after about an hour and 30 mins, they come back and tell me that my battery is dying. They said that they attempted to charge it and it will no longer hold. Well no kidding Sherlock, the car was telling me that from the very beginning. If the alternator isn't charging the battery properly, the car will eventually run off the battery depleting it of its power.
They then tell me I'd have to buy a new battery so they can further continue. They wanted to charge me $215 installed, I declined. Then they try to further con me by attempting to charge me $160 diagnostic fee since I'm not going with their b.s plan. They even go as far as telling me that if I come back with a new battery and the issue persists, I'd have to pay that fee prior to getting anything done even if it is covered by GMPP!![Icon Confused](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies2/icon_confused.gif)
Now, would it be so hard to just grab a fresh battery(same one you'd try to sell me) and check the alternator/voltage to see if it continues to spike before making buy something?! Or how about actually checking more than one thing before jumping to conlusions. Guess I'm asking too much common sense there.
I tell them I'm not paying anything and I leave.
So at this point I leave the V in my garage and go grab a fresh new battery from the parts store w/o getting ripped off. I head back to my garage, install it, and pay myself the diag fee so I feel better. Sure enough, within 3 mins, the same "Battery Not Charging" notice pops-up.
I'm hitting up another dealer, let's see if this one tries to con me also...
They take my car in and after about an hour and 30 mins, they come back and tell me that my battery is dying. They said that they attempted to charge it and it will no longer hold. Well no kidding Sherlock, the car was telling me that from the very beginning. If the alternator isn't charging the battery properly, the car will eventually run off the battery depleting it of its power.
They then tell me I'd have to buy a new battery so they can further continue. They wanted to charge me $215 installed, I declined. Then they try to further con me by attempting to charge me $160 diagnostic fee since I'm not going with their b.s plan. They even go as far as telling me that if I come back with a new battery and the issue persists, I'd have to pay that fee prior to getting anything done even if it is covered by GMPP!
![Icon Confused](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies2/icon_confused.gif)
Now, would it be so hard to just grab a fresh battery(same one you'd try to sell me) and check the alternator/voltage to see if it continues to spike before making buy something?! Or how about actually checking more than one thing before jumping to conlusions. Guess I'm asking too much common sense there.
![Bang Head](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_banghead.gif)
So at this point I leave the V in my garage and go grab a fresh new battery from the parts store w/o getting ripped off. I head back to my garage, install it, and pay myself the diag fee so I feel better. Sure enough, within 3 mins, the same "Battery Not Charging" notice pops-up.
![Rolleyes](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/rolleyes.gif)
I'm hitting up another dealer, let's see if this one tries to con me also...
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Well, I managed to make it to the dealer. I went to Weil Cadillac in Libertyville since I've experienced good service with them in the past....up to this point at least.
They take my car in and after about an hour and 30 mins, they come back and tell me that my battery is dying. They said that they attempted to charge it and it will no longer hold. Well no kidding Sherlock, the car was telling me that from the very beginning. If the alternator isn't charging the battery properly, the car will eventually run off the battery depleting it of its power.
They then tell me I'd have to buy a new battery so they can further continue. They wanted to charge me $215 installed, I declined. Then they try to further con me by attempting to charge me $160 diagnostic fee since I'm not going with their b.s plan. They even go as far as telling me that if I come back with a new battery and the issue persists, I'd have to pay that fee prior to getting anything done even if it is covered by GMPP!![Icon Confused](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies2/icon_confused.gif)
Now, would it be so hard to just grab a fresh battery(same one you'd try to sell me) and check the alternator/voltage to see if it continues to spike before making buy something?! Or how about actually checking more than one thing before jumping to conlusions. Guess I'm asking too much common sense there.
I tell them I'm not paying anything and I leave.
So at this point I leave the V in my garage and go grab a fresh new battery from the parts store w/o getting ripped off. I head back to my garage, install it, and pay myself the diag fee so I feel better. Sure enough, within 3 mins, the same "Battery Not Charging" notice pops-up.
I'm hitting up another dealer, let's see if this one tries to con me also...
They take my car in and after about an hour and 30 mins, they come back and tell me that my battery is dying. They said that they attempted to charge it and it will no longer hold. Well no kidding Sherlock, the car was telling me that from the very beginning. If the alternator isn't charging the battery properly, the car will eventually run off the battery depleting it of its power.
They then tell me I'd have to buy a new battery so they can further continue. They wanted to charge me $215 installed, I declined. Then they try to further con me by attempting to charge me $160 diagnostic fee since I'm not going with their b.s plan. They even go as far as telling me that if I come back with a new battery and the issue persists, I'd have to pay that fee prior to getting anything done even if it is covered by GMPP!
![Icon Confused](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies2/icon_confused.gif)
Now, would it be so hard to just grab a fresh battery(same one you'd try to sell me) and check the alternator/voltage to see if it continues to spike before making buy something?! Or how about actually checking more than one thing before jumping to conlusions. Guess I'm asking too much common sense there.
![Bang Head](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_banghead.gif)
So at this point I leave the V in my garage and go grab a fresh new battery from the parts store w/o getting ripped off. I head back to my garage, install it, and pay myself the diag fee so I feel better. Sure enough, within 3 mins, the same "Battery Not Charging" notice pops-up.
![Rolleyes](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/rolleyes.gif)
I'm hitting up another dealer, let's see if this one tries to con me also...
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With the new battery, it started at 14.4 and then tapered to 13.7. Couple of revs here and there and it started dropping to 12.3-11 and then it triggered the "Battery Not Charging" notice. I've suspected the voltage wire since thats what usually triggers that notice, since the car was still starting even with the old battery. I'll have to wait on the phone call tomorrow to see what kind of response I get but I'll be sure to let them know.
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i had an issue with my stability system too. i had a bad speed sensor on the right rear passenger axle.
edit: with the bad sensor, i also had that ABS issue too. had the speed sensor fixed last week, and havent had a problem with it since.
edit: with the bad sensor, i also had that ABS issue too. had the speed sensor fixed last week, and havent had a problem with it since.
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I'm guessing the way they'll look at all my CEL's is that they attribute them to the not having enough constant voltage while the car is running causing all the codes to trip. I can only pray that they'll do a thorough review before handing me the keys to ensure nothing else is malfuctioning once they fix the alternator/root cause of voltage spikes.
I guess the new standard of the world does not apply to people who have purchased a GMPP. We just get the old GM run around without lube.
I guess the new standard of the world does not apply to people who have purchased a GMPP. We just get the old GM run around without lube.
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Thats why, for the most part, you're better off saving your money and not purchasing an extended warranty.
All of these issues can be attributed to a malfunction in the charging system. Your battery seems to be bad. However, the alternator could have also led to it being bad. Autozone should be able to bench test your alternator for free.
All of these issues can be attributed to a malfunction in the charging system. Your battery seems to be bad. However, the alternator could have also led to it being bad. Autozone should be able to bench test your alternator for free.
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I can't say that GMPP hasn't been worth the money, but the hassles that come with it can die in a fire.
The older battery was an ACDelco brand that was replaced under the factory warranty. Batteries replaced under the factory warranty do not come with the standard battery warranty, they carry an 18 month/20k prorated warranty.
This is why I had bought a new battery since the old one was getting killed by the alternator not giving it a charge. I dropped off the car yesterday at Steve Foley Cadillac in Northbrook.
I just got a call this morning from the rep telling me that my car is "heavily modified" (mind you that all that is on the car is an intake, corvette covers, muffler delete, x-pipe, and cs motor mounts) and that they might possibly void my warranty. I told the rep to explain how any of those things would relate to my issue. He was not able to give me an answer. I told him that he should familiarize himself with the Magnuson-Morris Act. He said he had never heard of it. I told him I'd call GM corporate if they attempt to void my warranty. He said he would call me back.![Bang Head](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_banghead.gif)
I get a call back now saying they won't work on my car now. I tell him to explain to me why they cannot honor service for a car that clearly has an issue covered under my warranty. He said he cannot answer that and that he does not make the rules. I told him to put the person on that's in charge of making that decision. Of course, they're in a meeting and they'll give me a call back.![MAD](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_mad.gif)
I can't believe I have to deal with this. One dealer tries to con me while another one tries to deny me service based on something they can't even explain. Just what the hell is going on here?!
The older battery was an ACDelco brand that was replaced under the factory warranty. Batteries replaced under the factory warranty do not come with the standard battery warranty, they carry an 18 month/20k prorated warranty.
This is why I had bought a new battery since the old one was getting killed by the alternator not giving it a charge. I dropped off the car yesterday at Steve Foley Cadillac in Northbrook.
I just got a call this morning from the rep telling me that my car is "heavily modified" (mind you that all that is on the car is an intake, corvette covers, muffler delete, x-pipe, and cs motor mounts) and that they might possibly void my warranty. I told the rep to explain how any of those things would relate to my issue. He was not able to give me an answer. I told him that he should familiarize himself with the Magnuson-Morris Act. He said he had never heard of it. I told him I'd call GM corporate if they attempt to void my warranty. He said he would call me back.
![Bang Head](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_banghead.gif)
I get a call back now saying they won't work on my car now. I tell him to explain to me why they cannot honor service for a car that clearly has an issue covered under my warranty. He said he cannot answer that and that he does not make the rules. I told him to put the person on that's in charge of making that decision. Of course, they're in a meeting and they'll give me a call back.
![MAD](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_mad.gif)
I can't believe I have to deal with this. One dealer tries to con me while another one tries to deny me service based on something they can't even explain. Just what the hell is going on here?!
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That's where I actually went, no luck was found for me, just ignorance on behalf of the service writer. I'm still waiting on my phone call from the manager.
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Well I was finally able to make contact with the manager, he couldn't explain what was so "highly modified" about my car or how it relates with my issue however he just said that they didn't want to work on my car (they do have the right to deny service which is fair). He said he would waive the diagnostic fee and I can come pick up the car. I picked it up and now and of course it's still throwing codes, so its back to the list of dealers I can go to and hopefully I'll find one that actually wants to fix the root cause of my problem.
I did go to my garage and looked at my alternator to make sure there are no loose wires or corroded connections, everything looks legit as far as connections go. I just also noticed now that my clock time is auto updating by itself and no matter how many times I adjust it manually, it still changes. It still maintains the CST setting but it would auto change in 2-3 mins to the incorrect time(ie. 1:32am when cst time is 9:32 pm). Let's see if this nightmare continues tomorrow...
I did go to my garage and looked at my alternator to make sure there are no loose wires or corroded connections, everything looks legit as far as connections go. I just also noticed now that my clock time is auto updating by itself and no matter how many times I adjust it manually, it still changes. It still maintains the CST setting but it would auto change in 2-3 mins to the incorrect time(ie. 1:32am when cst time is 9:32 pm). Let's see if this nightmare continues tomorrow...
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Mine throws a "service stability system" light...EVERYDAY. It normally does it about 5-10 mins after I take off, it never comes back up until I shut the car off and when i restart it comes on again. I took it to the local dealer and got NO answers to what was causing this. I guess I need to stop in at a Caddy dealer when I'm on the road to address this one. I had someone on here tell me it was most likely a sensor issue.
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Mine throws a "service stability system" light...EVERYDAY. It normally does it about 5-10 mins after I take off, it never comes back up until I shut the car off and when i restart it comes on again. I took it to the local dealer and got NO answers to what was causing this. I guess I need to stop in at a Caddy dealer when I'm on the road to address this one. I had someone on here tell me it was most likely a sensor issue.
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either steering sensor or the wheel speed sensors in one of the wheel bearings. i just swapped my steering sensor and im still getting the code so im just gonna replace both front wheel bearings as the sensors are part of the hub. and then change out both sensors in the rear hubs just so i know everything is new.
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So I dropped my car off at the 3rd dealer in this epic journey to get these issues resolved.
I get a call back about 2 hours later and they have shown that the alternator was in fact malfunctioning! The DIM will have to be replaced as well and the instrument cluster might require replacement also. They've also detected issues with the coolant overflow sensor and coolant temp sensor. As for the radio, they say that it might require replacement as well. The GMPP adjuster will look over the car today and I'll get a phone call back sometime today to update me on the status of the repairs.
Looks like things are turning back around.
I get a call back about 2 hours later and they have shown that the alternator was in fact malfunctioning! The DIM will have to be replaced as well and the instrument cluster might require replacement also. They've also detected issues with the coolant overflow sensor and coolant temp sensor. As for the radio, they say that it might require replacement as well. The GMPP adjuster will look over the car today and I'll get a phone call back sometime today to update me on the status of the repairs.
Looks like things are turning back around.
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