Tune indicators
#1
Tune indicators
I bought the V used and it had some mods done to it already. From what I can see it's an upgraded throttle body, K&N hot air intake, and resonator delete with cutouts in front of the stock rear mufflers. There is a spare thermostat in the spare tire well and the engine temp is a consistent 185*.
I'm thinking the TB would require some tuning and the engine temps being cooler might indicate a lower temp (160*?) thermostat. Throttle response is also a little quicker than most other cars I've driven even with the stock flywheel.
It pulls pretty hard for being mostly stock. Does this sound like a tuned car to you guys?
I'm thinking the TB would require some tuning and the engine temps being cooler might indicate a lower temp (160*?) thermostat. Throttle response is also a little quicker than most other cars I've driven even with the stock flywheel.
It pulls pretty hard for being mostly stock. Does this sound like a tuned car to you guys?
#4
Throttle size change is a Must for tune as calculations are based on area(squared)...
sure, you can let the idle adaptive trims handle, but all rpm ranges would be slightly out.
K&N again, Gregs dvd clearly shows how far off by 3-4% a K&N setup would put out the MAF curve.
Fans need to be adjusted with a colder ° stat.
so tuning x3... do you have to? no... but you should.
IS the car tuned? Just read the file and compare to a stock file.
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The engine temp of 185 would indicate a stock thermostat is used as stock was 186*. If you had a 160* even without messing with fan controls it would run in the 165-180 range on the open highway given outside temp was below 90*. Look closely at the thermostat in the trunk it should have a reading on it, same goes for the one installed.
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Never had a tune maybe someday if I do headers; but imho the stock tune has great throttle response with high flow filter and snorkel removed. If the cags 1st to 4th shift is enforced would be in my opinion the quickest way of figuring out if it had a tune or not. If there is a connector to remove it on the transmission then it wouldn't be enforced but the dash light for the 1st to 4th still illuminates. Those with a tune could comment if a tune removes the dash light as well as disabling the forced shift.
Last edited by garrettg; 08-10-2011 at 04:43 PM.
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Mike this doesn't relate to the post directly but if you can answer why no handheld tuner for the 06-07 ls2 CTS-V? DiabloSport offers products for other ls2's, other Cadillac models of the same year and also other rare/limited numbers late model GM LS applications like the G8 GXP.
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The engine temp of 185 would indicate a stock thermostat is used as stock was 186*. If you had a 160* even without messing with fan controls it would run in the 165-180 range on the open highway given outside temp was below 90*. Look closely at the thermostat in the trunk it should have a reading on it, same goes for the one installed.
ANd in order to get any extra cooling fromt he lower thermostat you really should adjust teh fans accordingly. Ported TB will add much more throttle response adn really doesnt NEED a tune although its nto a bad idea if you have other mods.
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When I drove home from work today my car was at 170-174 that is a stock 07 V with 160* thermostat and around 90* ambient temp. If your car is running around 185 all the time on the highway then it would seem he is running the stock thermostat. On the highway the stock V cooling system should have no trouble holding the stock thermostat opening range 186* temp unless its very hot outside above 90*+. If you are city driving then a 160* thermostat with stock tune can get up to 200 or at the track I have seen 225+.
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Mine has the 1-4 eliminator. It does still show 1-4 if you are under light throttle and shift IIRC, around 2k. If yours does not do this, it was probably disabled through a tune
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Would agree a tune either handheld(ls6) or from tuning software based on the no dash light for cags.
Regarding the thermostat unless his coolant temp can actually stabilize lower than 185/186 which a 160* stat can with stock fan settings during highway driving and given its not 100*+ outside then he most certainly has a stock thermostat which is 186* or if its hot where he lives it could be an aftermarket 180* but unlikely based on where its holding. When it gets colder outside the 180* would be obvious as it should be able to hold right where it opens. The 160* stat doesn't hold at 160* because the car's cooling system just can't hack it regardless of outside temp, it can however hold around 165-168 in colder conditions and 170-176 in warmer conditions. If you ran no stat in the summer the temps would probably be the same as running a 160 as your essentially just going to run at the lowest temp the cooling system can maintain. There are many threads on this topic. I have no advice on which to run for your application, but it should be simple to figure out which is installed once this summer heat breaks.
http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=949249
Regarding the thermostat unless his coolant temp can actually stabilize lower than 185/186 which a 160* stat can with stock fan settings during highway driving and given its not 100*+ outside then he most certainly has a stock thermostat which is 186* or if its hot where he lives it could be an aftermarket 180* but unlikely based on where its holding. When it gets colder outside the 180* would be obvious as it should be able to hold right where it opens. The 160* stat doesn't hold at 160* because the car's cooling system just can't hack it regardless of outside temp, it can however hold around 165-168 in colder conditions and 170-176 in warmer conditions. If you ran no stat in the summer the temps would probably be the same as running a 160 as your essentially just going to run at the lowest temp the cooling system can maintain. There are many threads on this topic. I have no advice on which to run for your application, but it should be simple to figure out which is installed once this summer heat breaks.
http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=949249