What else to do when installing a maggie?
09-17-2011, 11:20 AM
#1
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What else to do when installing a maggie? I know this has to have been discussed a million times but through this site's search engine and google, I'm not getting any good results.
Can someone link me here or point me in the right direction? Maybe im just using the wrong wording?
Can someone link me here or point me in the right direction? Maybe im just using the wrong wording?
09-17-2011, 12:22 PM
#2
It depends on how far you want to go. 
1. You will have the fans and radiator out so you are 75% of the way for a cam swap.
2. I swapped valve springs and pushrods when I did mine. The LS6 has been known to break springs and drop valves in the motor, even on stock motors, so it's worth it, especially if you go with a dual spring setup. And if you miss a gear while driving it hard the stock pushrods can bend.
3. Protect your diff with an upgraded axle(or both axles) and maybe a pinion brace or something.
4. A Racetronix fuel pump hotwire kit us always a good idea, so you have good strong power going to the fuel pump (which compliments the boost a pump).
5. Sparkplugs and wires.
6. Some people replace the knock sensors and harness and use RTV to build a "dam" around the holes to keep water out in the future. I wish I had done that... I've started throwing a code for the knock sensor for bank 2 this week.
. Now I have to tear it all apart and fix it before I can get tuned for the Whipple 
7. Headers!
1. You will have the fans and radiator out so you are 75% of the way for a cam swap.
2. I swapped valve springs and pushrods when I did mine. The LS6 has been known to break springs and drop valves in the motor, even on stock motors, so it's worth it, especially if you go with a dual spring setup. And if you miss a gear while driving it hard the stock pushrods can bend.
3. Protect your diff with an upgraded axle(or both axles) and maybe a pinion brace or something.
4. A Racetronix fuel pump hotwire kit us always a good idea, so you have good strong power going to the fuel pump (which compliments the boost a pump).
5. Sparkplugs and wires.
6. Some people replace the knock sensors and harness and use RTV to build a "dam" around the holes to keep water out in the future. I wish I had done that... I've started throwing a code for the knock sensor for bank 2 this week.
. Now I have to tear it all apart and fix it before I can get tuned for the Whipple 7. Headers!
09-17-2011, 01:16 PM
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For some reason I figured you would reply. I will surely do all of the above. I was also thinking a head, and/or maybe upgrade to a bigger throttle body?
09-17-2011, 01:44 PM
#5
Yea, the throttle body is a great idea. Just get a new 90mm snout from Magnuson and a used LS2 TB. I've got an extra harness adapter available if you need a good deal on one... I have a pinion brace too. (I know, I'm shameless
)
09-17-2011, 02:24 PM
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Shoot me the details via pm when you get a chance.
I plan to have the blower sent out to magnuson for a re-fresh before install, is this a pretty standard thought?
When I put bigger snails on my previous car I did the same thing. Purchased them used with about 500 miles (no tune blows your engine and makes you needy for money, even if you did just upgrade your turbos) sent them out to be reconditioned just in case and I couldnt of been happier.
My t00ner is already obsessing on a cam to "make it sound like a man's car". I will most likely do so and do all of the above mentioned, as you said.
And is a larger MAF over kill? BTW, do we run a hot or cold MAF?
I plan to have the blower sent out to magnuson for a re-fresh before install, is this a pretty standard thought?
When I put bigger snails on my previous car I did the same thing. Purchased them used with about 500 miles (no tune blows your engine and makes you needy for money, even if you did just upgrade your turbos) sent them out to be reconditioned just in case and I couldnt of been happier.
My t00ner is already obsessing on a cam to "make it sound like a man's car". I will most likely do so and do all of the above mentioned, as you said.
And is a larger MAF over kill? BTW, do we run a hot or cold MAF?
09-17-2011, 03:12 PM
#7
It can never hurt to have a pro go over it before the install. I don't think they'll find anything... but it can't hurt!
I think a larger MAF is a good idea if also doing a larger TB. I changed to a cartridge style LS3 MAF when installing the Whipple (just because that's what the kit recommended). Either way you're going to be cutting into the MAF sensor wiring when you do the Maggie (to move the temp sensor from the MAF to the plenum), so this is a perfect time to make a change either way.
Ours is a cold wire MAF.
-Mark
I think a larger MAF is a good idea if also doing a larger TB. I changed to a cartridge style LS3 MAF when installing the Whipple (just because that's what the kit recommended). Either way you're going to be cutting into the MAF sensor wiring when you do the Maggie (to move the temp sensor from the MAF to the plenum), so this is a perfect time to make a change either way.
Ours is a cold wire MAF.
-Mark
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09-17-2011, 03:21 PM
#8
Don't forget to add in new poly mounts (engine, trans and diff) and would add in headers too and of course a 'tune'...Not sure on the options to port and polish heads (or other work) and make sure everything matches up perfectly (intake to head incl. gaskets, etc., which is really part of a true port job) and a good intake (duct) and not sure the options to upgrade that little intercooler they come with...Water/Meth injection, but the thing puts out so little boost, not sure how effective that would be and with it being so close to the combustion chamber (the pressure side) vs. turbo...Wouldn't recommend putting it on intake side, as even small mist droplets couple play havoc on the rotors, even though they are spinning slow (compared to the 100k+ rpm of a turbo compressor wheel)...
09-18-2011, 02:24 PM
#10
Have fun!
Mark
09-18-2011, 07:26 PM
#11
What is this hotwire kit? Is it simply a relay that carries power directly from battery to the pump, giving it full voltage and more lpm?
If so, you could duplicate that for a couple bucks, fwiw...I did this on the gvr-4 and ran 10 ga from battery (maybe overkill) in the trunk, to the fuel pump (which has a trap door in the trunk thankfully) and used a typical 12 vdc relay...
Just mention that so you don't get gouged by a 'name'...It's like water/meth "kits"; you can either pay $400+ for a "name" or put one together yourself for like $100 (most of which is the 100 psi shur-flo pump).
If so, you could duplicate that for a couple bucks, fwiw...I did this on the gvr-4 and ran 10 ga from battery (maybe overkill) in the trunk, to the fuel pump (which has a trap door in the trunk thankfully) and used a typical 12 vdc relay...
Just mention that so you don't get gouged by a 'name'...It's like water/meth "kits"; you can either pay $400+ for a "name" or put one together yourself for like $100 (most of which is the 100 psi shur-flo pump).
09-18-2011, 08:14 PM
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ahhh, need to decide what else im going to do and what stuff im going to skip. I;m not letting myself dump $10k in to this car. I wasted over $20k on the last one.
09-18-2011, 09:51 PM
#13
What is this hotwire kit? Is it simply a relay that carries power directly from battery to the pump, giving it full voltage and more lpm?
If so, you could duplicate that for a couple bucks, fwiw...I did this on the gvr-4 and ran 10 ga from battery (maybe overkill) in the trunk, to the fuel pump (which has a trap door in the trunk thankfully) and used a typical 12 vdc relay...
Just mention that so you don't get gouged by a 'name'...It's like water/meth "kits"; you can either pay $400+ for a "name" or put one together yourself for like $100 (most of which is the 100 psi shur-flo pump).
If so, you could duplicate that for a couple bucks, fwiw...I did this on the gvr-4 and ran 10 ga from battery (maybe overkill) in the trunk, to the fuel pump (which has a trap door in the trunk thankfully) and used a typical 12 vdc relay...
Just mention that so you don't get gouged by a 'name'...It's like water/meth "kits"; you can either pay $400+ for a "name" or put one together yourself for like $100 (most of which is the 100 psi shur-flo pump).
Yes that's basically all it is. If you know what you are doing I agree that a home made kit could be made. I'm an electrical idiot though and it's well worth the money for the simplicity of the racetronics kit.
09-19-2011, 08:36 AM
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Everything I have read through research says to go with a custom ground cam.
This is the first car that I'm not trying to squeeze every ounce of power out of. 500whp, on a good solid setup but I want it to be extremely reliable and as close to stock as possible.
This is the first car that I'm not trying to squeeze every ounce of power out of. 500whp, on a good solid setup but I want it to be extremely reliable and as close to stock as possible.
09-19-2011, 02:19 PM
#17
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Had the same question about mine...
https://ls1tech.com/forums/generatio...aggie-cam.html
I ended up getting a cam that was 224/230 600ish 113* + 2* and the Maggie LOVED it, made a huge difference from 2k, not even comparable to the LS6 cam.
My advise, do a cam and heads (AI, etc for less than 1k) then a Maggie and L/T's. If you do the Maggie first, you'll be going backwards later...like I did.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/generatio...aggie-cam.html
I ended up getting a cam that was 224/230 600ish 113* + 2* and the Maggie LOVED it, made a huge difference from 2k, not even comparable to the LS6 cam.
My advise, do a cam and heads (AI, etc for less than 1k) then a Maggie and L/T's. If you do the Maggie first, you'll be going backwards later...like I did.
09-20-2011, 08:16 AM
#18
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09-20-2011, 10:47 AM
#20
I do like this thread through.....it's pushing me to get a cam at the same time as a S/C since the front end will be off anyways.