Racer001

iTrader: (15)

OK. I have a 2005 cts-v with 63k miles. I need to do motor mounts. I just saw UMI released their mounts and to me they look the best out of all the other mounts I've researched the last couple months.

Anyway, I'm about to order a set of Kooks longtubes from Lindsay Cadillac.

-What gaskets should I go with?
-Do I need locking header bolts to ensure no leaks? Or is stock stuff ok?
-Any tips for installation?
-Do I need to use header wrap? (I've read about melting connectors?)

I'm going to go with catted connectors, for visual inspection here in VA. I have a Magnaflow x pipe and catback. I hear there is a little fab work needed, right? My guy has a mig welder so he said he can probably figure it out.

Thanks for the help!

wcryan

iTrader: (2)

Gaskets: don't use the ones ur headers come with. Get older ls1 camaro gaskets
Wrap: Didn't wrap mine and have had no problems
Mounts: go with cs. Or the new ones that just came out
Hardware: get the arp header kit

Skidmarcx

I used the gaskets that came with mine, but oh well if they leak I'll change em. I chose to wrap mine to protect surrounding components... If anything just use some fire tape on any cables/hoses nearby I did that as well

Racer001

iTrader: (15)

are O2 extensions needed?

wcryan

iTrader: (2)

I didn't need them

liqidvenom

iTrader: (2)

i needed them for my headers also just order the same gaskets that the v has from the dealer. I ordered a set for an ls1 and they didnt fit my v properly.

RRsV

What headers were / are you running? Dont see them in your sig.....I'll probably be ordering some Kooks in the next few months and am getting my parts list together.

JNR_Design

iTrader: (3)

Can't go wrong with installing Stage 8 locking fasteners on a header installation IMO and probably not much more than an ARP kit, plus they are stainless steel...Not sure how the LS headers are with tendency to loosen, but I had issues on my other (SBC) cars I ran headers where they would loosen just enough to blow the gasket at #8 and it got old replacing the gaskets...Put thos in and never had another issue...Ran headers in both alum and iron heads, fwiw...Just be sure to put some anti-seize on the threads and especially using stainless and esp. with aluminum heads.

Personally, I don't like the idea of wrap, although least with stainless you don't have to worry about it rusting like mild steel ones...I'd get them ceramic coated inside and out from a place like swaintech (really nice coatings!) and not only will you keep the heat at bay, but you can still see the headers (wrap is so ugly too)!

liqidvenom

iTrader: (2)

I have obx headers. I would buy a set just to be safe, some dont need the extensions though.

BudRacing

iTrader: (3)

I'll be wrapping my headers. In these cars you can barely see the headers as it is. If anything it's peace of mind.

itsslow98

iTrader: (18)

I would go to autozone and pick up a set of fel pro graphite gaskets. They are thicker then the GM and the cheap *** ones that come with the kooks. When I first put my kooks on i used brand new GM MLS gaskets.........it leaked. Then I replaced the one with the kooks gasket..............it leaked worse. Then I said f it and used fel pro cause they are thicker and its finally sealed up. I dont trust kooks flanges to be 100% true. I used fel pros on my mustang with kooks and the cadillac now.

Racer001

iTrader: (15)

in talking to a guy at Lindsay cadillac tonight, he said that the kooks headers hook right to the magnaflow catback without connection pipes?

Dusty04

Did your v throw any codes after getting your headers installed? If so what's involved in the tune to fix it? I understand o2 sensors being replaced is common but I'm new to vehicles with so much technology and was wondering if anyone could enlighten me? Any help is appreciated

Racer001

iTrader: (15)

I just got mine yesterday so they are not installed yet

Scott96LT1

iTrader: (2)

I've had good luck with Felpro gaskets and ARP hardware on my LT1 Camaro. I'll be doing the same with my V when I get headers for it.

Black89Z51

iTrader: (2)

I used the hardware that came with the headers. I used new GM gaskets (LS2). I didn't need O2 extensions with the Kooks catted connectors. I ended up just wrapping the one pipe that rubbed on the alternator wire. I also put some wire insulation on the wires that ran close. It's a pain in the *** but well worth the insurance.

DMM

I used the standard hardware (bolts) that came with the Kooks headers with the GM MLS manifold gaskets and have had no problems (I even reused them once). I initially did not wrap the headers, but when I had to take them off for the motor mounts I wrapped them 3/4 down since I did not want anything from the road splashing up on them and potentially catching fire.

When I installed the Kook's headers at first, I cut a small curved piece of tin from a piece of duct work I had laying around and bolted it to the lower motor mount bracket on the block to protect the alternator wiring. Never had a problem. Oh, and I did not need the extension's either.

CTSVBiggie

iTrader: (1)

I have the kooks 1 7/8s with High flow cat connections. And the installer had to cut the catback and weld to get them to mate up. I havent been under the car since but I am 100% they will not just bolt up.

shadyLS6

1.I reused the OEM gaskets 2 times already no leaks
2.reused stock bolts
3.the dipstick is easier with two people working on it
4. KOOKS magnaflow needs fab work

yeah great idea, dont wrap your headers nor get them coated = FAIL.. **** happens in a tiny engine bay

DMM

OUCH! That sucks Shady, i'm guessing that was the alternator wire. What is that in the pic? Its not the steering shaft is it? Were you able to patch the hole or did you have to buy a new set?

Magnaflow's will work with the standard connectors for the factory exhaust, both ends of the X-pipe needs to be trimmed...takes a little while to get it right so you don't cut too much off. I welded the connectors, X-pipe, and intermediate pipes all together so it goes up as one piece and the mufflers bolt on. Takes me about 15 minutes to swap between the Magnaflow and factory exhaust now.

Oh, BTW - the catted connectors will still set the cat inefficiency code, so the post catalyst O2 sensor codes will have to be tuned out or you will be staring at that annoying yellow light.