garrettg

iTrader: (1)

I did kooks 1 7/8 header install this weekend and everything went ok I didn't get mid pipe instructions and just hadn't thought that far ahead but having to cut the factory exhausts was a slight surprise. The only issue is the steering shaft has a slight hiccup when turning right. It's usually when the steering wheel is at top center and just barely move it to the right and it sort of hangs on something for a split second. I didn't dent the headers and I have looked under there many times and don't see the shaft rubbing on the headers. Its close but not seeing any rubbing. If it only rubs during driving conditions then that would make sense and I need to remove it and dent it unless there is a way to dent it while installed. More information, when installing the header I did disconnect it by way of the very bottom bolt that holds the shaft to the rack. I did lock the wheel and strap in place when I removed the shaft from the rack so it wouldn't spin. This was not what the instructions said but never the less this is how we did it. Is there any trick to re-attaching the steering shaft to the rack? Does it just bolt just pinch or actually go through a hole in the rack attachment point? In this manual it shows it going through but these things aren't always accurate. I would describe the feeling at slight notch or hiccup but only turning right and usually when the wheel is pointed dead straight.

Black89Z51

iTrader: (2)

I used factory gaskets and 1 7/8" Kooks without any steering shaft issues. I hear though that some people have to dent the header (brands other than Kooks) a little bit due to interference.

Also, be sure that your alternator cable isn't touching the header. it runs along the block right by them. There have been a few instances of the header melting through the insulation and the owner having to buy a $1,200 wiring harness.

family-man

I also heard of the starter cable hitting the headers aswell

garrettg

iTrader: (1)

There is small clearance between shaft and the headers but afaik its not rubbing no marks or anything.

Problem solved
I took the bolt out and and put it back except this time as tight as I could get it with a 3/8 ratchet 15mm socket and now the play is gone and the hiccup is gone as well. Its almost a problem turned into a mod with the free play being minimized by putting the screws to this thing. I didn't have a torque wrench on it but I easily went past the 37 lb ft advised.

I am getting it tuned on Wednesday and will post some numbers!

The starter cable is close but not touching. What is the best way to keep the starter cable back not sure there isn't anything obvious to me to tie strap it to.

Racer001

iTrader: (15)

I took all precautions with my headers. I wrapped the headers in thermal wrap, and used DEI Cool Tubes on any and all wires, tubes, lines anywhere near the headers. Its worth the $200 in materials to ensure that I wont fry a $1200 wiring harness.

itsslow98

iTrader: (18)

You could always use a oxycetalene torch to heat the primary up enough to mold it with a long pry bar. That would keep you from having to pull it all back apart. My kooks 1 7/8 fit with no problem fortunately.

greddy91

iTrader: (2)

This happened to me on the katech install - If it's the same as mine - your motor mounts are shot or sagging. You're welcome.

garrettg

iTrader: (1)

My mounts are fresh from 2 months ago and there is no rubbing using 1 7/8 kooks. The issue was with the pinch bolt to the rack not being fully tight. Which makes sense because that is what I loosened to move the steering shaft during the header install.

greddy91

iTrader: (2)

Nice. Defeated by torque. Story of the factory V's life.

slowlaneblues06

iTrader: (2)

All,

Just finished a header install on my 06 V.

For any and all considering this, buy some cool tape form local Advanced and Oreillys, and wrap everything near the headers.

HERE IS THE GOOD PART: When you have the manifolds off and before you install the headers, undo the charge cable from the back of the alternator and route it behind the driver side engine mount. It will keep the cable away form the headers and save you the heartache of a wiring harness. Its even easier if you are doing motor mounts at the same time.

I used 3 rolls of DEI 1 3/16 cool tape on all wiring harnesses within 5 inches of the headers just to be safe.