'04 V not Starting
#1
'04 V not Starting
Today I decided to do my plugs and wires.
Did bank 1, replaced plugs, replaced wires, started car after it was done, ran fine.
Did bank 2, replaced plugs, replaced wires, starte car after it was done, ran fine.
I used some small plastic cleaner on the intake manifold, a little on the fuse box, a little on the cold air box, and wiped it down with a rag.
Now I get back in the car again, after putting on the fuel rail covers, and the car won't start.
No crank, no clicking, nothing. When I turn the key to start the car, everything on the dash turns off, and the only thing left on is the little check engine light.
Disconnected the battery cables to the car, and reattached. Still no go.
I was able to push start the car. It was running and idling fine, no check engine light on.
There was a slight electrical burning smell from inside the car. The DIC read "Low Range" for my fuel, when I have a full tank.
I went out and bought a code reader, and no codes showed up. So -$250.
Any idea's?
-meaty
Did bank 1, replaced plugs, replaced wires, started car after it was done, ran fine.
Did bank 2, replaced plugs, replaced wires, starte car after it was done, ran fine.
I used some small plastic cleaner on the intake manifold, a little on the fuse box, a little on the cold air box, and wiped it down with a rag.
Now I get back in the car again, after putting on the fuel rail covers, and the car won't start.
No crank, no clicking, nothing. When I turn the key to start the car, everything on the dash turns off, and the only thing left on is the little check engine light.
Disconnected the battery cables to the car, and reattached. Still no go.
I was able to push start the car. It was running and idling fine, no check engine light on.
There was a slight electrical burning smell from inside the car. The DIC read "Low Range" for my fuel, when I have a full tank.
I went out and bought a code reader, and no codes showed up. So -$250.
Any idea's?
-meaty
#4
None of the fuses are blown? Mine did this same thing when the PCM fuse blew out due to a short on the throttle body. I would have guessed a code would get thrown with that... but I don't know for sure.
#5
Exact thing I was thinking..... seems you didnt do anything wrong with the plugs or wires, which wouldnt make your car not start anyways. It would make your car run shitty if you did it wrong.
I think this has something to do with u spraying the fuse box
I think this has something to do with u spraying the fuse box
#6
That burning electrical smell is a sure sign something got stressed.
Could be your starter motor is going out.
The starter motor uses the ground from the battery to the motor and it could be flakey.
Are you running the OEM battery?
Could be your starter motor is going out.
The starter motor uses the ground from the battery to the motor and it could be flakey.
Are you running the OEM battery?
#7
The Battery is a Duralast Gold.
It looks to be new, terminals are clean and not corroded. Even a jump start couldn't get it going.
When I cleaned the fuse box, I didn't soak it, I just spritzed it twice, and wiped it immediately. There wasn't any evidence of anything inside getting wet. Only the outside cover got any liquid on it, and not a lot of it at that.
I checked larger visible fuses inside the block, and none of them appeared to be blown.
The only other thing I've had going on with the car when driving is that the transmission hasn't been locking out the shifter from the reverse side occasionally when driving.
I guess tomorrow I'll check around the starter to see if there are any cooked cables.
If I can't get anything else figured out I'll see if I can get it pop started again tomorrow and drive it to the dealership to leave it for service.
This is just really terrible timing, I was saving to buy my girlfriend a car. Grrr...
-meaty
It looks to be new, terminals are clean and not corroded. Even a jump start couldn't get it going.
When I cleaned the fuse box, I didn't soak it, I just spritzed it twice, and wiped it immediately. There wasn't any evidence of anything inside getting wet. Only the outside cover got any liquid on it, and not a lot of it at that.
I checked larger visible fuses inside the block, and none of them appeared to be blown.
The only other thing I've had going on with the car when driving is that the transmission hasn't been locking out the shifter from the reverse side occasionally when driving.
I guess tomorrow I'll check around the starter to see if there are any cooked cables.
If I can't get anything else figured out I'll see if I can get it pop started again tomorrow and drive it to the dealership to leave it for service.
This is just really terrible timing, I was saving to buy my girlfriend a car. Grrr...
-meaty
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#8
swap out the starter relay with another relay that you know is working... quite a few have the same part numbers... worth a shot.... i relocated my battery and i had the same problem. not sure why... but i installed a push button... not by choice... try jumping across the starter relay... its the top left and the bottom right, take a small piece of wire and jump across and see if it starts...MAKE SURE THE PARKING BRAKE IS ON AND THE CAR IS IN NEUTRAL so you dont run over yourself
#9
#10
Just a quick update on my plight...
I successfully managed to get the car started by bridging the starter solenoid, so that ruled out the starter and solenoid.
Due to the fact that I am posting this, I did NOT run myself over! LOL
We then swapped the starter solenoid for the blower solenoid (same identical part and part number) and still no start.
I basically narrowed the problem down to the clutch safety switch. I had a friend who is significantly smaller than me to come take a look at the clutch switch. He had a lot of difficulty trying to remove it, so we didn't, and we went and looked online how to undo it because it's a bitch to unconnect.
For some reason it then clicked to me when looking at the fuse schematic online (.pdf posted on that OTHER forum) that my dumbass overlooked the fuse for the clutch safety switch...
Guess what was blown?
So I swapped out that fuse with a good one, and the car started no problem.
Turned it off, started it again, no problem. Went to discount to pick up extra fuses, started no problem. Went to lunch, started it, no problem.
So that 10 amp fuse cost me 1 day worth of finding a car to buy my girlfriend, and $250 for an OBDII scanner... ugh.
So for everyone in the future to narrow this down:
First step:
Check starter solenoid. You can easily bridge this using a screw driver. MAKE SURE CAR IS IN NEUTRAL AND PARKING BRAKE IS ON. Key the car to the on/running position, then bridge solenoid. Should start and run.
While you're in there, there's a line of fuses up the left side of the fuse box. Look at the small diagram, it's the 6th fuse up in the line, along next to the other small big square thingies. It's listed on the diagram as "cltch" or something similar to that. It's a red 10 amp fuse. Check it to see if it's blown.
Next you should be on to the clutch safety switch, and from there the ignition switch I would imagine is the next step.
Hope this helps out someone in the future.
Key words for search should be: Car not starting, Turn key but not doing anything, car power works but not starting, WTF MY **** ISN'T WORKING!!!, Car won't start all of a sudden, **** GM, Car won't crank
Thanks for your insight guys, I do appreciate ya'll taking a look and helping out.
-meaty
I successfully managed to get the car started by bridging the starter solenoid, so that ruled out the starter and solenoid.
Due to the fact that I am posting this, I did NOT run myself over! LOL
We then swapped the starter solenoid for the blower solenoid (same identical part and part number) and still no start.
I basically narrowed the problem down to the clutch safety switch. I had a friend who is significantly smaller than me to come take a look at the clutch switch. He had a lot of difficulty trying to remove it, so we didn't, and we went and looked online how to undo it because it's a bitch to unconnect.
For some reason it then clicked to me when looking at the fuse schematic online (.pdf posted on that OTHER forum) that my dumbass overlooked the fuse for the clutch safety switch...
Guess what was blown?
So I swapped out that fuse with a good one, and the car started no problem.
Turned it off, started it again, no problem. Went to discount to pick up extra fuses, started no problem. Went to lunch, started it, no problem.
So that 10 amp fuse cost me 1 day worth of finding a car to buy my girlfriend, and $250 for an OBDII scanner... ugh.
So for everyone in the future to narrow this down:
First step:
Check starter solenoid. You can easily bridge this using a screw driver. MAKE SURE CAR IS IN NEUTRAL AND PARKING BRAKE IS ON. Key the car to the on/running position, then bridge solenoid. Should start and run.
While you're in there, there's a line of fuses up the left side of the fuse box. Look at the small diagram, it's the 6th fuse up in the line, along next to the other small big square thingies. It's listed on the diagram as "cltch" or something similar to that. It's a red 10 amp fuse. Check it to see if it's blown.
Next you should be on to the clutch safety switch, and from there the ignition switch I would imagine is the next step.
Hope this helps out someone in the future.
Key words for search should be: Car not starting, Turn key but not doing anything, car power works but not starting, WTF MY **** ISN'T WORKING!!!, Car won't start all of a sudden, **** GM, Car won't crank
Thanks for your insight guys, I do appreciate ya'll taking a look and helping out.
-meaty
#13
She really, REALLY wants a Bel-Air. Preferably Baby Blue/white... but that's out of the price range right now.
I was going to take a look at a Protege 5 yesterday, but since the cadillac decided to take a ****, I didn't have a chance to.
She'd really like a Mazda 3, but finding one in the original body style in blue with a 5-speed is almost IMPOSSIBLE.
I have a friend selling a '96 Miata for $2kish, so we might do that, since I have no problem working on Miata's, and mine has only ever broken down once in the 8 years I've owned it. So it would be reliable and cheap to keep around.
She's looking at Trans-Am's, Camaro's, and Monte Carlo's as of recently. She *was* really big on Mustangs, but she's ditched those and started looking more at Chevy's.
Who knows, there's lots of cool cars out there. If something decent pops up for $2k I'm on it. I don't want a second car to make payments on and that's all I've got in cash lying around.
-meaty
I was going to take a look at a Protege 5 yesterday, but since the cadillac decided to take a ****, I didn't have a chance to.
She'd really like a Mazda 3, but finding one in the original body style in blue with a 5-speed is almost IMPOSSIBLE.
I have a friend selling a '96 Miata for $2kish, so we might do that, since I have no problem working on Miata's, and mine has only ever broken down once in the 8 years I've owned it. So it would be reliable and cheap to keep around.
She's looking at Trans-Am's, Camaro's, and Monte Carlo's as of recently. She *was* really big on Mustangs, but she's ditched those and started looking more at Chevy's.
Who knows, there's lots of cool cars out there. If something decent pops up for $2k I'm on it. I don't want a second car to make payments on and that's all I've got in cash lying around.
-meaty