azn2dmax

iTrader: (33)

http://www.whitegauges.net/products/...ce-Gauges.html

Chime in please. Ricey? They don't look bad and for $20 it might be worth a try.

NeverSatisfied02

iTrader: (12)

They have more options than just white. I've seen the machined silver gauges in pics of a V online for sale. Looks pretty good.

etcts-v

Don't buy them! They are complete crap, I bought them and when they arrived I was shocked at how cheap they were, they look like they were printed off a home ink jet printer. Luckily they let me return them for a 20% restocking fee, complete waste of time and money.

I did finally pony up for the stainless ones from US Speedo, but they are $200. They also have "Aqua" http://www.usspeedo.com/products/?part-number=ssctsv11

Here is my thread with pictures on the cadillac forum (2nd page for finished result shots): http://www.cadillacforums.com/forums...-feedback.html

RADEoN

iTrader: (12)

i am perm banned can you host them here

etcts-v

so needy, lol

Here you go, I also swapped the orange LED's for blue and white while I was at it.

NeverSatisfied02

iTrader: (12)

Looks bad ***! I'll prob do this when I run out of things to do and I have cash burning a hole in my pocket... Lol

jcollege

iTrader: (2)

Those look good, definitely like the blue LED change too!

9t8z28

iTrader: (19)

etcts-v, what was involved in swapping out the orange bulbs for the blue on the climate control and cluster?

CTSVBiggie

iTrader: (1)

yeah what he said. I love the blue/white look. Silver overlays are nice touch.

etcts-v

All you have to do is pull the cluster apart and solder in new LED's, there are a total of 8 per screen. I swapped in white led's on the screens and then some blue ones for the security light and traction control light.

The led's that need to be swapped for the screens are at the ends of the two pens in this photo:



Here are the lights I used:

http://www.digikey.com/product-detai...38-1-ND/808908

They are $0.68 each, I suggest you get a few extra's as you will lose one or two of them in the process.

A few things to note, be very careful when pulling the needles as the plastic stepper motors for the needles have plastic gears and break very easily. Also be careful with the needles, I broke mine from dropping them. Hence the blue escalade needles. Last note, don't pull the gauges faces themselves unless you plan to replace them as they are cheesy plastic with a paper backing and you will end up with your gauges looking like this:



The HVAC screen is the same process, The HVAC screen is really easy to pull apart so I would start with that one if you want to tackle the project and see how it goes. Be careful desoldering the led's as not to lift the pad off the circuit board. The ones you have to replace are all in the big white box.

Here is the HVAC Screen:

CTSVBiggie

iTrader: (1)

If ou lived closer id pay you to do mine. Looks great but I would **** that up in SOOO many ways.

NeverSatisfied02

iTrader: (12)

Yeah... My thoughts exactly. I didn't realize you had to go through all of that to change them.

CTSVBiggie

iTrader: (1)

He should buy a core one and mod it. Sell it and then mod the next persons... sell it yada yad ayada...

etcts-v

I've considered this, only thing that's stopped me is that I would constantly have to be pulling my clusters to test the lights make sure everything is good, don't know if I want to put my car through that over and over again.

The led's are polarity sensitive so it's real easy to put them in the wrong way, only way you can tell is by plugging in the board to check everything out. Then if you got them switched you have to de-solder again and re-solder them on the correct way.

CTSVBiggie

iTrader: (1)

12v power supply... Done!

http://www.hobbywarehouse.com/12V-12...FQFx4AodfBURcg


wouldnt that mean you could test it without putting it in?

etcts-v

I have a power supply, just a modded computer power supply that I use to test lights and the like. However I wouldn't trust just dumping unregulated power into the circuit board, there are multiple pins on this board with different amps, isolators, resistors and the like. You want the whole board to light up to test the stepper motors, lights, screens etc etc before I sell one of these to someone.

I could buy a harness and pin out the connections possibly using the wiring diagrams I have, might look into that.

CTSVBiggie

iTrader: (1)

when and if you get there and you dont charge TOO much... An dI can figure how to get MINE out... id probably be down. A lot of IFs I know.

jamesdem1123

I wish I wouldve known changing the color on the displays were so easy before I started my homebrew RFID/GPRS remote start system The blue looks so nice!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AfavdH7hNlU

I was going to go maggie on an 04/05, but I paid more and got an 06 and am camming it instead.

etcts-v

That's a badass little contraption, so it will read A/F readouts from a wideband? I'm running Dashcommand w/ kiwi device from my iphone which then plays off my aftermarket Pioneer Ap ready unit for A/F ratios (except when tuning which I plug directly into HP tuners)

http://www.palmerperformance.com/pro...hone/index.php

http://www.plxdevices.com/product_info.php?id=GSST2WIFI


http://www.pioneerelectronics.com/PU...rs/AVH-P8400BH

jamesdem1123

You can hook it up and have it act as a standalone wideband controller pretty easily with the sensor below. the arduino (microcontroller) has an analog input that reads 0 to 5volts and assigns a value of 0 to 1023 to it. You can then map that 1023 value from 9.6 to 19.6 (where 0volts is 9.6, and 5volts is 19.6 afr). You would just have to wire up a circuit to control the wideband heater.

http://www.zeitronix.com/Products/zt...ndoutput.shtml