Wheel hop cure. Need info
#3
Replace all the rubber in the rear with Revshift hard poly bushings first, geforce axle kits after that..or go big with an 8.8 ford rear end kit that will take the punishment regardless of hop.
#4
TECH Fanatic
I have DSS/Hendrix axles and Specter Werkes cradle bushings. I can dump the clutch at 3k RPM, bury the throttle, and bounce off the rev limiter with zero WH.
Jumping on the throttle in 2nd gear at about 2.5k RPM also induces burning rubber with no WH.
Since I don't drive in rain, I cannot attest to WH in those conditions.
Jumping on the throttle in 2nd gear at about 2.5k RPM also induces burning rubber with no WH.
Since I don't drive in rain, I cannot attest to WH in those conditions.
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If your not worried about wheel hop or not gonna track the car, I would stick with what you have. They were designed with comfort in mind. I noticed a big difference once I went to the hard revshift cradle bushings. I personally love the feel, but if your worried about the ride, imo, stick with the factory bushings. And I doubt the softer revshift bushings are any better the the harder ones, but I have no experience with the softer bushings. Just my .02
#19
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Yup, neither did I.
I don't think it effects ride really at all. The control arm bushings may, but IMO all they did was help wheel hop and amplify noises more. There is no more soft rubber dampening/sound deadening anymore. Also, why go with the softer revshift stuff? It is not that great of a change.
Anyway, Every revshift bushing that is offered in the rear (UCA, Cradle, Trailing arms, pinion), diff block, pinion support, G-force axels, Map/creative steel trailing arms (get rid of front rubber mount), BMR/Creative steel toe rods, good tires at right psi, should solve 99% of wheel hop.
*Except in rain*
I would love to see a car built like that with a stock rear and have the owner just beat on the rear end to see if it would still hop and possibly break. Come on OP buy all of it and let us know! Should be right around 1900$ in all!!!
Anyway, Every revshift bushing that is offered in the rear (UCA, Cradle, Trailing arms, pinion), diff block, pinion support, G-force axels, Map/creative steel trailing arms (get rid of front rubber mount), BMR/Creative steel toe rods, good tires at right psi, should solve 99% of wheel hop.
*Except in rain*
I would love to see a car built like that with a stock rear and have the owner just beat on the rear end to see if it would still hop and possibly break. Come on OP buy all of it and let us know! Should be right around 1900$ in all!!!