What did you do to your V today?
04-15-2019, 09:53 AM
#2481
That sucks. The pumps become damaged over time when the fluid is kept in this poor state. Do flushes more often and watch it, unless you want to replace a burnt up pump like I am about to do. Glad you got some of that nasty stuff out!
04-17-2019, 01:21 PM
#2482
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Dropped the headers and cat pipes off for coating on Friday. Place does the same Cerakote that Byron mentioned; I'm going with satin silver. On Monday they called to tell me that when they blasted the headers to clean 'em up, they found some cracking along a couple welds. So today I went back over there to retrieve the headers to get the cracks welded up. The coating place is in an industrial park (not surprisingly), and there was an exhaust shop in the vicinity, so I was able to do a "walk-in" at the exhaust shop, get the welds fixed up, then brought the headers back and dropped them off again. Should be done early next week.
I didn't get any pics of the cracks. Two were pretty small, and I'm not even sure were full cracks - may have just been a bit of a crevice where the weld bead was pulling away from the tubing. But there was one spot on the passenger side header that was definitely a crack - I could look up through the collector and see daylight where that tube was coming into the merge. Looked like JBA's welding robot (I assume) just didn't get good penetration on the tubing.
The presence of the cracks briefly made me wonder if the tick I heard back in the fall (which led to me cutting short a track event and parking the car ever since) was just a header leak. I'm fairly certain the answer is NO. The biggest crack was on the passenger side header, and the tick noise I heard was definitely coming from the driver side. And I've had header leaks before on other engines, and the tick I heard on the V didn't seem like the same sort of noise.
The coating shop had already finished the cat pipes, so I was able to pick those up. Last week I got some stainless M10-1.5 rod and stainless nuts from McMaster-Carr, so I can cut the rod into 4 pieces and install new stainless studs in the cat pipe flanges to bolt up to the cat-back exhaust.
I didn't get any pics of the cracks. Two were pretty small, and I'm not even sure were full cracks - may have just been a bit of a crevice where the weld bead was pulling away from the tubing. But there was one spot on the passenger side header that was definitely a crack - I could look up through the collector and see daylight where that tube was coming into the merge. Looked like JBA's welding robot (I assume) just didn't get good penetration on the tubing.
The presence of the cracks briefly made me wonder if the tick I heard back in the fall (which led to me cutting short a track event and parking the car ever since) was just a header leak. I'm fairly certain the answer is NO. The biggest crack was on the passenger side header, and the tick noise I heard was definitely coming from the driver side. And I've had header leaks before on other engines, and the tick I heard on the V didn't seem like the same sort of noise.
The coating shop had already finished the cat pipes, so I was able to pick those up. Last week I got some stainless M10-1.5 rod and stainless nuts from McMaster-Carr, so I can cut the rod into 4 pieces and install new stainless studs in the cat pipe flanges to bolt up to the cat-back exhaust.
04-18-2019, 10:12 AM
#2483
Dropped the headers and cat pipes off for coating on Friday. Place does the same Cerakote that Byron mentioned; I'm going with satin silver. On Monday they called to tell me that when they blasted the headers to clean 'em up, they found some cracking along a couple welds. So today I went back over there to retrieve the headers to get the cracks welded up. The coating place is in an industrial park (not surprisingly), and there was an exhaust shop in the vicinity, so I was able to do a "walk-in" at the exhaust shop, get the welds fixed up, then brought the headers back and dropped them off again. Should be done early next week.
I didn't get any pics of the cracks. Two were pretty small, and I'm not even sure were full cracks - may have just been a bit of a crevice where the weld bead was pulling away from the tubing. But there was one spot on the passenger side header that was definitely a crack - I could look up through the collector and see daylight where that tube was coming into the merge. Looked like JBA's welding robot (I assume) just didn't get good penetration on the tubing.
The presence of the cracks briefly made me wonder if the tick I heard back in the fall (which led to me cutting short a track event and parking the car ever since) was just a header leak. I'm fairly certain the answer is NO. The biggest crack was on the passenger side header, and the tick noise I heard was definitely coming from the driver side. And I've had header leaks before on other engines, and the tick I heard on the V didn't seem like the same sort of noise.
The coating shop had already finished the cat pipes, so I was able to pick those up. Last week I got some stainless M10-1.5 rod and stainless nuts from McMaster-Carr, so I can cut the rod into 4 pieces and install new stainless studs in the cat pipe flanges to bolt up to the cat-back exhaust.
I didn't get any pics of the cracks. Two were pretty small, and I'm not even sure were full cracks - may have just been a bit of a crevice where the weld bead was pulling away from the tubing. But there was one spot on the passenger side header that was definitely a crack - I could look up through the collector and see daylight where that tube was coming into the merge. Looked like JBA's welding robot (I assume) just didn't get good penetration on the tubing.
The presence of the cracks briefly made me wonder if the tick I heard back in the fall (which led to me cutting short a track event and parking the car ever since) was just a header leak. I'm fairly certain the answer is NO. The biggest crack was on the passenger side header, and the tick noise I heard was definitely coming from the driver side. And I've had header leaks before on other engines, and the tick I heard on the V didn't seem like the same sort of noise.
The coating shop had already finished the cat pipes, so I was able to pick those up. Last week I got some stainless M10-1.5 rod and stainless nuts from McMaster-Carr, so I can cut the rod into 4 pieces and install new stainless studs in the cat pipe flanges to bolt up to the cat-back exhaust.
I want to get some more and do my new cats for my GMPP cat back I have on it's way here, and to redo my headers in the titanium color.
-Byron
04-19-2019, 08:36 AM
#2484
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Forgot that the shop had emailed me pics of the weld cracks:
First one is the passenger side header, that was the big crack - in person it looked worse than the picture seems to show. Second one is on the driver side, I think it looks worse in this picture than it did in person.
Coated cat pipes with new stainless hardware installed:
I bought a 300mm threaded rod from McMaster-Carr and cut it in 4 pieces. I may be able to cut them down a bit more (weight reduction!), I don't recall how much thread protrusion I had before once the cat-back was installed.
First one is the passenger side header, that was the big crack - in person it looked worse than the picture seems to show. Second one is on the driver side, I think it looks worse in this picture than it did in person.
Coated cat pipes with new stainless hardware installed:
I bought a 300mm threaded rod from McMaster-Carr and cut it in 4 pieces. I may be able to cut them down a bit more (weight reduction!), I don't recall how much thread protrusion I had before once the cat-back was installed.
04-30-2019, 07:36 PM
#2489
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Pulled the intake manifold off and did some cleaning of the valley cover and the sealing surface of the heads. I was struck once again by the somewhat arbitrary details in the FSM. In the procedure for IM removal it tells you to remove the MAP sensor and the PCV breather hose from the valley cover to the IM, but doesn't say anything about the vacuum line to the brake booster. It says you can remove the IM, TB and fuel rails all as one assembly, but doesn't say anything about disconnecting the fuel feed to the fuel rail. Just seems strange to me - either point out all of the interference removal that needs to be done, or don't point out any of it.
Tomorrow, if the weather cooperates (I'm working in the driveway, and there's a chance of PM thunderstorms), I'll get the driver side head off and see if I can find anything suspect that would have caused the ticking noise. I need to find a good box or container of some sort of organize all the rockers and pushrods when I pull that stuff off.
Tomorrow, if the weather cooperates (I'm working in the driveway, and there's a chance of PM thunderstorms), I'll get the driver side head off and see if I can find anything suspect that would have caused the ticking noise. I need to find a good box or container of some sort of organize all the rockers and pushrods when I pull that stuff off.
04-30-2019, 08:02 PM
#2490
Pulled the intake manifold off and did some cleaning of the valley cover and the sealing surface of the heads. I was struck once again by the somewhat arbitrary details in the FSM. In the procedure for IM removal it tells you to remove the MAP sensor and the PCV breather hose from the valley cover to the IM, but doesn't say anything about the vacuum line to the brake booster. It says you can remove the IM, TB and fuel rails all as one assembly, but doesn't say anything about disconnecting the fuel feed to the fuel rail. Just seems strange to me - either point out all of the interference removal that needs to be done, or don't point out any of it.
Tomorrow, if the weather cooperates (I'm working in the driveway, and there's a chance of PM thunderstorms), I'll get the driver side head off and see if I can find anything suspect that would have caused the ticking noise. I need to find a good box or container of some sort of organize all the rockers and pushrods when I pull that stuff off.
Tomorrow, if the weather cooperates (I'm working in the driveway, and there's a chance of PM thunderstorms), I'll get the driver side head off and see if I can find anything suspect that would have caused the ticking noise. I need to find a good box or container of some sort of organize all the rockers and pushrods when I pull that stuff off.
04-30-2019, 10:56 PM
#2491
05-01-2019, 10:02 AM
#2493
05-02-2019, 09:42 AM
#2497
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Tomorrow, if the weather cooperates (I'm working in the driveway, and there's a chance of PM thunderstorms), I'll get the driver side head off and see if I can find anything suspect that would have caused the ticking noise. I need to find a good box or container of some sort of organize all the rockers and pushrods when I pull that stuff off.
05-02-2019, 11:23 PM
#2499
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I didn't remove the pump from the bracket, I just needed to unbolt the bracket from the head. But the pulley blocks one of the bolts, so I had to remove the pulley first.
Head is off, lifters are out. Some maybe questionable wear on a couple of the lifter rollers, I'll take a better look in the next couple days and probably take them all to the V tech @ Lindsay to see what he thinks.
Note the dryer sheets on the valley cover. I stuck a few around the engine bay a while back after finding this when I popped the hood:
I read online that dryer sheets are a good way to keep critters out. Seems to have worked in this case, I never saw any fresh evidence of visitors after I stuck the dryer sheets under the hood.
Head is off, lifters are out. Some maybe questionable wear on a couple of the lifter rollers, I'll take a better look in the next couple days and probably take them all to the V tech @ Lindsay to see what he thinks.
Note the dryer sheets on the valley cover. I stuck a few around the engine bay a while back after finding this when I popped the hood:
I read online that dryer sheets are a good way to keep critters out. Seems to have worked in this case, I never saw any fresh evidence of visitors after I stuck the dryer sheets under the hood.
Last edited by AAIIIC; 05-08-2019 at 11:38 PM.
05-08-2019, 10:28 PM
#2500
Hit the rollers yesterday. Got basically stock power level results.
I wanted to get a baseline and logs for the upcoming heads and cam swap.
Found some technical issues with the air filter being plugged up and MAF was dirty. I also found evidence of a damaged harness connection at the MAF. AFR stayed between 11.9-12.8 averaging 12.2-12.4. I will get that right before I proceed.
I believe this may have been the source of my cars over enrichment during the run. Melted part of the back bumper also.
Now that I have established the number to beat, I'll be going forward as soon as my parts arrive.
-Byron
PS the smoke in the background is my plastic melting.
https://byronsworld.smugmug.com/Cadi...JNKN/i-ZhsZHXz