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I’ll find the link to the thread on this but off the top of my head it’s stock driveshaft, V1 flange from rock auto on the V2 diff, I think it’s Chevy Highlander 6x115 hubs with the correct splines (if you want to keep stock wheels like me), swap over V1 suspension and brakes, swap over/make bracket for E-brake and bolt it in. Someone more familiar will hopefully step in and correct me or add to this
Man that doesn't sound bad at all.
It's mostly a drop in replacement then.
I'm with you on keeping the stock wheels. They already look good enough IMHO. I wouldn't mind the STS-V wheels but I think it's not a straightforward swap IIRC.
I've heard about skip-shift solenoid delete before, but not sure what the benefit of physically removing it and putting a delete plug would be vs just disabling it.
I mean as long as it is not energized, shouldn't be any difference right?
But if I were getting a tune anyways I sure would have disabled it like you did, though it literally was a 5 min job.
I'm planning on getting a tune though, but not until I decide on heads, manifold and cam upgrade for this winter's project.
I have a thread about that in the Gen IV External forum section. If you have any input please check my post.
I went with a 222/226 .600/.600 117 lsa cam, custom grind from cam motion.
I used Thompson Motorsports 243 CNC heads with CHE trunnions.
Kooks 1 7/8" headers into kooks cats, GMPP catback.
I also have a fast 92 that has been ported and a volant Cai. I'll be swapping to a 4" and ls7 maf in the near future before Dyno time.
I went with a 222/226 .600/.600 117 lsa cam, custom grind from cam motion.
I used Thompson Motorsports 243 CNC heads with CHE trunnions.
Kooks 1 7/8" headers into kooks cats, GMPP catback.
I also have a fast 92 that has been ported and a volant Cai. I'll be swapping to a 4" and ls7 maf in the near future before Dyno time.
-Byron
Nice. Did you dyno the V with that setup?
How is your idle like ?
I'm very concerned about ending up with a lopey or choppy idle.
One of the main reasons for having this V is to be able to take my family on long trips.
So I need to keep the idle and noise as close to factory as possible.
Man that doesn't sound bad at all.
It's mostly a drop in replacement then.
I'm with you on keeping the stock wheels. They already look good enough IMHO. I wouldn't mind the STS-V wheels but I think it's not a straightforward swap IIRC.
im excited for the swap! I’m going to order the supporting parts this week. Only thing I’ll have to get clarification on is bolt length. Once I get it I’ll post it
Man that's great, beats having to pay an arm and a leg for the other options.
Which brings up a point, why CS charging so much for their 8.8 conversion?
I don't get it, I have rebuilt a whole trans with customization and upgrades for less than what they want for an 8.8 conversion.
I’ve thought the same thing man, I think it’s 1) them and G force are the only other options and 2) the market for their product is extremely small compared to other platforms so after all the R&D and production costs they are probably breaking even with that price tag
Nice. Did you dyno the V with that setup?
How is your idle like ?
I'm very concerned about ending up with a lopey or choppy idle.
One of the main reasons for having this V is to be able to take my family on long trips.
So I need to keep the idle and noise as close to factory as possible.
With kooks 1 7/8" headers, cats and GMPP catback it sounds amazing and isn't lopey at all.
I'll have Dyno numbers soon as my 4" intake and ls7 maf make it across the pond.
Idles smooth. It's a stealth cam, vs a donkey dick cam.
Yes I know the right brake light bulb is out. I replaced it after I watched the video.
Thanks for sharing Byron, I got a pretty good idea what that setup sounds like.
I'm glad you don't have a donkey dick for a cam as for sure it just doesn't suit this type of car.
That idle is pretty nice I like it, it's pretty much what I'm looking for.
It's a couple of notches above factory and I sure like that it is not lopey at all.
I think the fact that you have headers and an H-Pipe might be making that idle louder than mine would be with such a cam.
I have a factory exhaust, which I recently chopped off the rear mufflers from and slid on the Magnaflow mufflers from my magnaflow cat-back system.
It's a tad louder now, but I'm making an adapter to slide back the factory mufflers if I feel the need to, to make things as close to factory quiet as possible.
Thanks for sharing Byron, I got a pretty good idea what that setup sounds like.
I'm glad you don't have a donkey dick for a cam as for sure it just doesn't suit this type of car.
That idle is pretty nice I like it, it's pretty much what I'm looking for.
It's a couple of notches above factory and I sure like that it is not lopey at all.
I think the fact that you have headers and an H-Pipe might be making that idle louder than mine would be with such a cam.
I have a factory exhaust, which I recently chopped off the rear mufflers from and slid on the Magnaflow mufflers from my magnaflow cat-back system.
It's a tad louder now, but I'm making an adapter to slide back the factory mufflers if I feel the need to, to make things as close to factory quiet as possible.
Oddly enough, I had 1 3/4" headers and 400 cell cats and it was louder. I swapped to kooks 1 7/8" due to ground clearance issues as they sit tighter. I have kooks cats as well and the borla/GMPP catback is very quiet, almost shockingly so between 2200-3000 cruising.
It's a great cam, and the power band is about 2k up to the limiter. Drives easy also in heavy traffic. I have a 98db noise limitation in Abu Dhabi, so I was really surprised when the noise level dropped to 89db from 92-93. 72db at the center console down to 67 db at cruising.
I hooked up the battery tender and made sure I have a current insurance card in it. Gotta put the snow tires on soon. Taking my Raptor in for warranty work 1/20. They’ll probably keep it a few days.
I hooked up the battery tender and made sure I have a current insurance card in it. Gotta put the snow tires on soon. Taking my Raptor in for warranty work 1/20. They’ll probably keep it a few days.
It was oddly cheaper to buy a new dorman filler neck and cap than it was to buy new factory O-rings.
FYI the dorman filler neck and cap leaked more than the bad seals on the Factory one did.
I swapped the O rings over to the old cap and filler neck, problem solved.
If you have an air leak and you cannot find it, maybe have a look?
Also my coolant reservoir cap came out in 5 pieces. I pick up the new one this afternoon. Easy fix, but I've never seen one fail like that before. Car sat 20 days on my vacation, I went to check all fluids before starting the car and it failed.
how does an air leak in the filler area impact performance?
Originally Posted by Byron
Got the last air leak taken care of.
It was oddly cheaper to buy a new dorman filler neck and cap than it was to buy new factory O-rings.
FYI the dorman filler neck and cap leaked more than the bad seals on the Factory one did.
I swapped the O rings over to the old cap and filler neck, problem solved.
If you have an air leak and you cannot find it, maybe have a look?
Also my coolant reservoir cap came out in 5 pieces. I pick up the new one this afternoon. Easy fix, but I've never seen one fail like that before. Car sat 20 days on my vacation, I went to check all fluids before starting the car and it failed.
how does an air leak in the filler area impact performance?
Any unmetered air can impact the performance, even if it's minor.
Pull off the fresh air vent if you have an LS2 and drive it for a while and see how it runs. Then plug it back up and see the difference in how it runs.
You can do the same with the oil fill cap.
In the case of my car as I replaced each line, it lead me to the next line that had failed. I replaced the valley cover hose that failed with a catch can, then the brake booster hose failed, then the lower EVAP hard plastic line, and the upper EVAP hard plastic line and now finally the fill cap and filler neck o-rings were the last parts of the system that were leaking.
Each line I replaced, my afr has improved. It's now 13.2-14.2 depending on throttle position and driving conditions. Where as previously it stayed 14.2-15 range and no additional changes to the tune or system.
I'm going to do the dipstick o rings just for good measure later this week.
12-28-2019, 06:15 PM
