90G60

iTrader: (1)

I'm in the beginning stages of piecing together the necessary parts to swap LS3/L92 heads onto my LS2. I'm hoping to have everything installed and tuned by spring.

Last night I was mulling things over and am starting to have doubts. I was going to call Martin over at Tick today to discuss and hopefully order a custom ground. In order to do this, I need to make up my mind

Here is my question. How tough is the conversion and is it worth it?

I am still fairly new to the LS world, but it seems to line me up closer to my goal of 450whp. I feel like I'm missing something as it "appears" to be about the same cost to buy/build some LS2 heads, and throw a cam in and call it a day. BUT for a few hundred more (probably more like $500) I can buy the L92 heads have them built and milled and make more power.

punishmentcycle

iTrader: (6)

its all direct bolt on...but you will need the ls3 heads and offset rockers,valvecovers etc. after that measure for pushrods with the new cam and send it to the tuner.

90G60

iTrader: (1)

I guess another reason I'm apprehensive is that there doesn't appear to be many others doing this swap. Generally that's a good indication that it's not worthwhile.

serik21

Actually its a very common swap for guys with ls2s

2007V

iTrader: (2)

That's why I looked hard for an ls2 car to be able to have this option in the future.

If you do it now then it will open your options for larger blowers setup for ls3 engines. You should do it!

NIKDSC5

iTrader: (10)

Couldnt be more wrong. Lot of guys have done it. If I had the 2 instead of 6 Id be doing it. The heads flow redonkuless #'s. You can get high hp staying na or really get up there with fi and cheap! Shop around and you can get the package under 2k.

Like I said OP, Id do it if I could.

DMM

Martin will not steer you wrong. The LS3 route is very popular, however a good cathedral build usually outperforms the large LS3 heads on smaller displacement engines, especially for street use.

90G60

iTrader: (1)

Alright, well I guess I will continue on then.

Trying to remain budget conscious. If I spend Trick Flow money on a set of LS2 heads will I make more power than a nicely built set of LS3 heads?

DMM

I'd fill out Martins sheet, give him an idea of the performance you're looking for, the drivability you need, and your budget constraints. It's what he does, I haven't seen him let anyone down yet.

01_SuperSlow

iTrader: (7)

^^This!

and This!--> https://ls1tech.com/forums/generatio...automatic.html

FuzzyLog1c

iTrader: (4)

The bottom line on LS3 and LSA heads on a stock LS2 motor is it's not very popular because the price/performance ratio is not great. Rule of thumb: $4195 plus shipping and tax for about 50 RWHP and 25 RWTQ, assuming you've got good supporting mods. My car might make 475 RWHP and 400 RWTQ, which will feel like nothing on the butt dyno. At that rate, you might as well save for a 416 CID LS3 shortblock.

You'll pay about $2000 to acquire LS3 or LSA cores and have them ported by someone reputable like TEA. They'll need to be milled unless you plan on going FI (the heads will drop your compression ratio by about a point), and you may have to have your pistons flycut to maintain piston-to-valve clearance. Now you're out about a month and $2500. Then you'll have to drop about $375 on a LS3 intake and fuel rails, $75 for gaskets, and about $150 for a used set of LS3 offset rockers. Then there are hardened pushrods ($135), the Comp Cams trunnion upgrade kit ($135), and you'll probably want to do SLP lifters ($200), ARP head bolts, the PRC .650" dual spring kit ($300), and Comp Cams hardened locks ($25). While you're at it, you may as well pick out a new cam that matches the heads ($300).

I've got a brand new set of LSA heads with lightweight valves sitting here. Bought it two years ago, thinking that I'd be able to run a TVS2300 on the stock engine. Then I realized that a) the stock rotating assembly can't take more than 7-8 PSI of boost for more than 20-30k miles, and b) my "end game" power goals increased beyond 650 RWHP to something in the 1000 RWHP range. Will probably build either a very strong 416 CID LS3 or 427 LSX. Not sure yet. If I go with the latter, it'll mostly be because the iron block can handle the heat.

90G60

iTrader: (1)

Appreciate the list Fuzzy.

I started this simply because I want to do a cam and heads over the winter. I also realized that I didn't want my V to be down for a few months while pulling my stock heads to have them ported and built. So I thought I would buy a used set and have them built. Then just said the hell with it, and decided I might as well do the LS3 heads since I'm replacing the heads anyways. It made since to me, but I know I don't have all the info on the swap.

FuzzyLog1c

iTrader: (4)

Frankly, if I could do it over, I would've put the money I spent on a cam and valvetrain upgrades toward a better engine. Ultimately, if you do every single possible thing to a stock, naturally-aspirated LS2, you might approach 485 RWHP. But you'll spend more than you would if you increased your displacement, and there will be some driveability penalties to pay as well.

If you want to make your car drive faster, I'd recommend putting that money into a KW Variant 3 with 896 in-lb Swift springs in the rear, a lightweight clutch, or every bushing and shifter mod money can buy. Then, if you still want more power, save for an engine that can handle boost. $20,000 later, you'll be making 900+ RWHP.

90G60

iTrader: (1)

KW V3's are on my list for the winter as well.