The total cost is about $1400.00 if you add all that up. It doesn't include tools and additional material.

I purchased LED indicator and switches from Oznium.com

1. LED indicator
2. LED switch

The idea is to have indication of the secondary pump. The LED switch is to override the Hobbs switch. So basically, when the second pump comes on, I get a light. If I want to force the second pump on, I can control that with a push button.

Here is the end product of the modified fuel module with twin DW300 pumps installed.


This is how I built it:
Remove the rear cradle to access the fuel tank and remove the fuel module.


Here is the fuel module completely dismantled.


Use a Dremel and clean out the fuel bucket.


Tap the return port using a 1/4-18 NPT.


Thread in a 5/16 IDx 1/4 MIP brass hose barb.


Connect the Gates/EFI fuel submersible hose to the return fitting and 6AN pushlock 90 degree swivel (item 7, on bucket fitting sheet). The worm gear is to keep the fuel module intact to ensure it does not 'pop' apart with the fuel pumps that are going to be added. Notice the cut-outs at the tip - those are for the fuel pump lines and electrical fittings.


The twin DW300 pumps are installed and wrapped with 0.032" lockwire. The primary pump has the kit#11 filter from APE while the secondary pump has the filter that came with the DW300 kit. The wiring that came with the pumps is being used.



Next, assemble the Home Depot manifold with the 5/16 barbs, plug, and 8AN 90 degree fitting (item 6 on the bucket fitting sheet).


Time to install those flex lines from APE.




Next, drill the holes for the bulkhead fittings.



Use the nylon gaskets and secure it with the nuts.



Snip the ends of the stock fuel connections (don't need them anymore) and put some caps on there and secure it with GOOP.


Here are some pics of the connections.


Here are some pics of the completed fuel bucket with everything connected.






Time to install it - gets a little tricky. I had to disconnect the return line hold it with string then reattach it.







Next, time for the major components. I did not use the Holley filter shown in the pic, instead I used a Fuelab which has a check valve incorporated.


Prep the fuel rails. I used -8AN oring fittings in the Holley fuel rails.

 

Next comes the Holley fuel pressure regulator. Look at the side by side comparison with the factory regulator.



I installed the Holley FPR on the battery tray.







Next, tackle the fuel lines. Have to remove the filter and supply lines.




Here is a comparison of the stock diameter and the 8AN (1/2").


Here are some pics of the new fuel lines:
This one goes from the bulkhead to the filter (supply).

This short one is the return line from the fuel rails to the FPR.


Here is how I routed the lines.
Exiting the fuel tank. It's tight but the fuel lines are not pinched and have some wiggle room.


Routed the lines along the passenger side and wrapped them with heat shielding.



Time to replace the filter.



Had to make a new mounting hole with a 1/4-20 rivnut.




Here are some pics under the hood connections.



The return line below the regulator has a 90 degree 6AN fitting (not shown).

 

Here's how I routed the Racetronix hotwire:

I had the cradle removed so I was able to make a clean install - mounted it along side the frame where it is out of the way.


What you see here are 2 relays, one for each pump. You should only have 1 relay if a single hotwire kit. The wire is pretty easy to route at this point. The photo doesn't show the rest but you just follow the other wires already there - up and over onto the gas tank. Make all your necessary connections (plug and play).


Ok here's some basic stuff on the fuel pump relays and tools I find essential.



Left to right:
1. Depinning kit - 2. Delphi crimping tool for common molex connectors - 3. Crimper, 2-8awg non-insulated -
Here's the basics on the relay for the secondary pump:






From my notes:
30 - 10awg for power from the battery, incorporate inline fuse
87 - 14awg for power to secondary fuel pump
85 - 10awg chassis ground, combine relay ground and fuel pump ground
87a - not used
86 - switched, from ignition, trigger wire

So here's some wiring snapshots:
Wired up port 30 (goes to the battery)


It's upside down but same port 30 connection (beer glass to the left )


Wire them all up and looks like this:




The completed relay is installed to the far right...next to the Racetronix fuel pump relay (left). A lot of what you see in this pic is wire management - up to the hands of the installer.


Almost forgot, here is where I pull ignition power from (switched, port 86). Look closely and you can see the tiny red arrow:


Hobb's switch (2psi pressure switch) and LED lights.

Silicone 1/2" line


This is just prep for boost. The LEDs are for indication for the secondary fuel pump and the hose is to replace the OEM brake booster junk and splice for the vacuum manifold.

Here's some profile pics on the BLOX vacuum manifold.




Installed the fittings.



Drilled and installed rivet nuts to secure the vacuum manifold.


Mounted the vacuum manifold and spliced into the brake booster.




The pics don't show the depth but with the Hobbs switch, it has tons of clearance and does not interfere with any of the other lines. I plan to use the additional ports when the boost comes.

Here is where I mounted the LED switch (secondary pump override) and LED indication for secondary pump activation:









This way I don't sacrifice the use of the factory outlet plug and the ashtray can be used to mount my AFR gauge when the time comes.

 

Here is a video of the first start-up (un-edited):

Here is another video a few months later where I replaced the CPE rubber hoses with PTFE (no fuel odor) - engine is not running and single pump operation:

Thanks for those who contributed. This is a great mod to have if you are going FI or already have FI.

 

Damn nice work man. I was kazy and just went with this mod

http://aeromotiveinc.com/products-pa...rive-pump-kit/

With -12 feed -10 return

 

Very nice write up! Thank you!!!

 

Awesome write-up with great detail.

 

Amazing write up man, thanks for taking the time to put this together!

 

this couldnt be any easier now hahaha nice write up thanks for puting in the time and effort!!

 

Jeez dude... Good work. This may make me keep my stock tank instead of changing it out for a cell.

 

Thanks guys! Hopefully it serves as a reference for those who want to take a similar path.

As many already know, the size of the factory fuel lines is not the limiting factor when boosting the V1 - it is how it is designed as a system. My fuel mod gives far better fuel regulation by placing it at the engine just after the fuel rails. It is a full return style fuel system using 8AN supply and 6AN return. There is no BAP - both fuel pumps are fed from the battery and have their own separate relay using 10awg. The primary pump operates off the factory trigger while the secondary pump operates off a Hobbs pressure switch. The return line dumps directly into the bucket to keep the fuel pumps covered. These features mitigate overheating the fuel and gives your fuel pumps a long life.

I won't speculate what it's capabilities to make rwhp - theoretically, more than I can handle street driving.

 

You have to appreciate anyone that takes the time to share beautiful projects like this.

Thank you!

 

Wow, what an incredible write up for such a needed topic. If you guys want this stickied please let me know.

 

My vote would be to make this a sticky. Amazing write up job.

 

x2

 

Awesome write up! I wish I would have thought about tapping the return on the bucket. Did you add any holes to the bucket to allow it to fill if the tank level drops below the top of the bucket?

 

Thanks!

I didn't add any additional holes. The return line goes directly into the bucket keeping the fuel pumps covered. The discharge hoses in the front have large enough openings to relieve the bucket if it becomes over-pressurized. The large worm clamp keeps the upper/lower shell together.

I ran it down a little below 1/4 tank and didn't notice any issues. I'm going to guess that even a stock fuel system that runs out of gas still has a couple inches of fuel in the tank. The V1 is so much different than the traditional hangar type fuel modules.

 

So after awhile of driving with the fuel modification some have asked how is it holding up? The answer is, just great! However, I did make some changes to the hotwires - since I have twin pumps, I wired them in parallel therefore there are 2 relays and 2 hotwires.

I spoke with Andy at Squash Performance regarding his electrical bulkhead that he provides on his fuel systems. They provide a very robust electrical bulkhead and harness. I noticed the one I install from Racetronix was creating some unusual heat at the electrical connector - it was friggin HOT!

I did a lot of electrical checks and long story short...all the wiring was correct and all the components are correctly implemented so why was I getting so much heat? He answered and said the problem was with the fuse holders that are used with the Racetronix hotwires.

Unknown to me until recently, the fuses generate a ton of resistance and resistance = heat. My fuses were not at the point of failure but just damn HOT. So Andy from Squash Performance told me instead to use circuit breakers. Basically, cut out the fuse holders and replace them with circuit breakers.

This is something that comes with experience and I am happy to report that it works! I replaced my fuses with circuit breakers and the wires at the electrical bulkhead are barely warm after driving around all day and long idles - problem solved!

Cut out the old fuses on the hotwires:


Routed the wire behind the battery and tucked it. Installed some velcro and installed the circuit breakers in the side pocket next to the battery:




So my advice, remove the fuses and replace with circuit breakers on the hotwires. The circuit breakers do not generate resistance and provide the same protection - probably better because you can reset them instead of being stuck without a fuse if it blows and leaves you stranded.

I purchased my circuit breakers from ebay (30amp because I ran 10AWG wire):
http://www.ebay.com/itm/111396780963...84.m1497.l2649

 

This is not entirely correct. If a quality and proper size of fuse is used then there will be minimal heat developed in the fuse holder (Littelfuse or Bussman). The 280-series fuse holder terminals are rated at 30-amps, which is twice as much current as any 300-340LPH pump should require. We recommend a 25-amp fuse be used with 300-340LPH pumps. We do not recommend using circuit breakers with fuel pumps since they are slow to react and have a wide tolerance and therefore will not provide the type of protection needed if a fuel pump were to fail which can lead to a potential fire. This is why you will not see breakers used on factory fuel pump circuits. ALL breakers AND fuses add a small series resistance to a circuit in order to function. It is a thermal process that causes all breakers / fuses to trip / blow. It also appears as if you put together your own harness. Hand-crimping and soldering terminals will degrade their current handling capacity. If too much heat is used during the soldering process, it may damage the tin plating on the terminals that will further degrade their performance and create a heating problem. Ideally, terminals are best crimped with a press or ultrasonically welded, as is done here @ Racetronix.

The bulkhead connector you are using is rated at a maximum of 14 amps per terminal. You should double up on the positive feeds to the pumps and use a #10 SS bolt as a common ground for both pumps instead of running them through the bulkhead. 300+LPH pumps will easily exceed the single-terminal rating of this bulkhead connector and lead to premature failure.

We HIGHLY recommend you join our support forum and pose questions like this for our techs instead of relying on third parties who do not have knowledge of our products.

http://racetronix.com/sales-support/support/

 

The advice I received had nothing to do with Racetronix and more about the design of the ATO fuses in general. The bulkhead connecting wires at the bulkhead were hot as I mentioned but also the blade fuses were hot as well. The ATO blade fuses carry more resistance as I understand than a circuit breaker. I've heard conflicting data regarding 'fuses vs circuit breakers' and to my understanding they both provide protection. There are many fuel pump kits out there using circuit breakers instead of fuses. It's in a wide range of use in cars, boats, homes etc. The point here was as designed...the ATO blade fuses generate more resistance than a circuit breaker. I think all of your kits include a blade fuse so I can understand why you might lean towards fuse applications.

I used a Delphi Packard Five-cavity Wide-range Crimping Tool and yes some splices I soldered. I'm not new to making cables - I'm sure your techs do it daily and are proud of your process. I inspected your hotwire and thought it was very neatly fabricated.

The electrical bulkhead connector you provide and I'm using is 14amp rated as you suggested. The DW300 pumps I'm using are rated at 13 amps at 13.5volts and 60 psi. The voltage swings on this platform from about 13.5 to 14.1. The fuel pressure on this platform is 58-60 psi. I have the bulkhead connector feeding both pumps so theoretically that is 13 amps each. To be clear that means 2 of the 4 wires have 13 amps of current going through it. When the other pump is energized then the other 2 wires will have 13 amps of current. Add that up when both pumps are energized and that is 26 amps of current going through the 4wire bulkhead connector. FWIW I run on single pump operation and the secondary is wired for a Hobbs.

I understand what you are suggesting by making a terminal on the fuel module and that may be the best option considering how crowded it is. I was under the impression your bulkhead terminal was rated 14amps/2 leads instead of 14 amps total. Wired in parallel, that cuts it down to 7amps per component - not good.

Thanks for the response!