Naf

iTrader: (1)

Done!

I even modified the harness to work properly with the headlights, waitin on led bulb so my low beams kinda match...

Ordered a new set of headlights so i get the black on black and since its my second attempt the job will be cleaner and unnoticeable

Naf

iTrader: (1)

Found the brake fluid reservoir hose, 7mm blue hose for a vw bus... It will have to do. I am about two weeks out on that component, plus have to wait four days before i win the auction for the headlights then three weeks out for shippin...

I will start the engine next week after i install the dual wb gauge.

Nothing else is holdin me back

Then its a search to find some interior components to make her look pretty in the trunk again...

54inches

iTrader: (4)

FYI, I found out the hard way too that the coilover was too wide to run really wide wheels, so I narrowed the control and I am running the new springs in the traditional location.

What lower control arms are those?

Also, since this is a racecar, ever thought about running a cantilever setup in the rear for the coilovers?

Naf

iTrader: (1)

Those are the camaro lower control arms, reduced by 1" and reinforced them for extra load...

I am running penske coilovers, which are some of the best for racing. i feel just pulling the bottoms of the shocks inwards should help...I have new brackets made where they are pulling the shocks inwards by 30mm. 10mm wasnt enough so i tripled it...

Naf

iTrader: (1)

We have thigh gap!!!!

Used these shock spacers and everything is comfy

Now this is with the rear negative camber at its maximum.

NIKDSC5

iTrader: (10)

That is clever. It does change the location some. Making that rear spring seem softer. Not sure how much but you can plug in the numbers. Doubt it will be enough to dictate a re-spring.

somethingclever

iTrader: (1)

I will be curious to see if that bracket holds up over a load.

Naf

iTrader: (1)

Why would it break? Its the same thickness as stock

I will be removin the trunk carpet and replace with either bedliner or sound deadenin mats...

That will give me full access to the shocks

barrok69

Agreed.

It looks like you'll be introducing a bending moment on the "tab" that you created. And your current design doesn't incorporate any gusseting to counteract that moment.

NIKDSC5

iTrader: (10)

I would def gusset the sides. I don't think that piece will stand up. It will bend on the first turn.

Naf

iTrader: (1)

Fine!

I will have my guys whip out another one

I am never gonna finish this project

barrok69

Just looking out for you man!

Would hate to see you have it all done and then you tear off your new fenders and suspension first time on the track because a small bracket failed.

54inches

iTrader: (4)

Do you have any photos of those lower control arms, before and after? Actually,
I can find before, just want to see after....

Naf

iTrader: (1)

Sorry buddy, all i have are pix of it installed...

I reduced the side connected to the knuckle, no biggie just reduced it by one inch and removed the swaybar ears from the oem lower arms and welded them on the new arms...

Naf

iTrader: (1)

I hear ya...

I will remove it so i may have a pc that has supports for the tab

somethingclever

iTrader: (1)

What keeps the coilover from rotating about the original shock bolt?

barrok69

Nothing.

It's supposed to have a degree of freedom around that point. The top of the shock is essentially "fixed" and so is the control arm to the body. When the control arm goes up or down the shock bottom will rotate slightly. I believe there is a spherical balljoint inside the knuckle at the shock location that allows the rotation. If there was no rotation the whole system would bind and put side load on the shock body and also put alot of pressure on the top mount of the shock.

Naf

iTrader: (1)

I have a hydraulic perch and spring bearings so the spring has the freedom to move about. The shock base is pretty much locked in place with the bottom mount and the top is also fixed with the top. The best way to see if you have any issues is to remove the spring from the coilover and manually move the suspension up and down to see if you have any issues. Other than that there is no way of seein if you may bend your shock.

Bottom mount is all bent up just need to drill holes. Wednesday is off so Thursday hopefully i will be done and pix will be uploaded

somethingclever

iTrader: (1)

I don't agree that the top of the shock is fixed - it has compliant rubber at the top and will move around at the knuckle connection easily by hand when installing new shocks. I don't think there is a spherical joint inside the knuckle at the lower shock mount for rotation purposes during shock travel, but that the rubber itself allows adequate rotation. It probably doesn't need much rotation anyway...few degrees...the difference between arc's isn't much. (wheel vs shock location)

Anyway - none of that was my point...what I am saying is before the shock was held in place by a male/female clevis design on the bottom. with the picture as shown, if that tire hits a pothole, what keeps the whole new bracket from rotating about the shock bolt? ...aka - the control arm goes up, the coilover says "I'm not moving" and the bracket rotates it's position.

The top of the coilover doesn't have to move much to get a large movement at the bottom and the bracket arc length is small, so not much movement is needed to rotate.


I think the bracket needs to have two bolt holes at the knuckle connection to resist rotation.

barrok69

Huh? His bracket is no different than the stock shock mounting other than the offset portion that he added to move the shock base inboard.

You don't have to agree but Physics says you're wrong. Draw out the free body diagram. The shock top mount is a fixed position. It doesn't move relative to the cradle. The only moving part of the rear suspension is the base of the shock position that's attached to the end of the control arm (which rotates).