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Today I ordered a 2nd gen V rear suspension, auto, for $700 Shipped so i'm pretty excited. CmyCaddyfly said he just directly bolted the driveline to the diff? I thought they were different flanges? that driveline adapter someone posted above is more or less a spacer then? seems like rear suspensions are cheaper than they were just a year ago. at this rate ill be able to do the swap, hubs, poly bushings, coilovers, and wheels/tires all for a hair over the price of a CS 8.8 rear or a bit less ill have to see as project moves on, but definitely seems worth it over just having a stronger diff, I get everything else too. Searching the 2ng gen V forums and I hear the diffs themselves can handle 1000whp+ BUT, the ONLY thing i'm worried about is, they are known to make noise if you get a lemon diff, but at least they won't explode.
IIRC, Caddyfly ordered a new V1 flange off rockauto and swapped it over to use stock driveshaft. Reread his post to make sure. Also at $700 for the subframe, you should be well under a CS 8.8 swap when it’s all said and done.
IIRC, Caddyfly ordered a new V1 flange off rockauto and swapped it over to use stock driveshaft. Reread his post to make sure. Also at $700 for the subframe, you should be well under a CS 8.8 swap when it’s all said and done.
Derek
ohh yes, I see that, thanks I must be blind.
Im looking at ZR1 hubs on Rockauto, they are either $155 or $206 for a hub, OUCH $630+ for 4 hubs, my heart ouch I taste copper... Anyways, i'm off to find some coilovers, im probably just going with 1st gen V coilovers, unless the experienced swap people know? v1, v2? KW is a crapload more than I want to spend, I would be fine with 1500 or less, i'm thinking BC? I have no experience with coilovers but was looking at reviews etc..
After adding up prices, im changing my mind on the Zr1 hubs and wheels/tires. I have no problem at all with the stock wheels, I actually like them, I would just like to widen the rears at some point and go 275 285 tires. But im not really into doing all my cars with aftermarket wheels or anything real flashy. I will save $3400 (well a bit less because ill need aztek hubs and have them redrilled etc) by not getting the hubs, wheels,tires, rotors changed. I still need to buy ls7 clutch, motor/trans mounts, short shifter AND all of my engine mods (its stock) so $3400 will go a long ways to getting it modified as opposed to just having different hubs that support "better wheels"
Before W/zr1 hub change and wheels
rear suspension $700
Zr1 Hubs $623 and machining $400?
coilovers $1000
whiteline subframe Subframe bushings $250
Rotors $200
V1 pinion flange $59.00
TOTAL $ 3,232.16
Wheels $2200??
TOTAL $ 5,432.16
Not changing diff bolt pattern (hubs)
rear suspension $700
aztek hubs and machining for 6x115 $250??
coilovers $1000
whiteline subframe Subframe bushings $250
V1 pinion flange $59.00
TOTAL $ 2,259.
With the clutch, shortshifter and engine/trans mounts with the ZR1 hubs and ALL that wheels/tires comes out to like $6,600 and to me, $6,600 on a $12k car just isn't worth it especially if I haven't even modded the engine (another 4000-5000ish). in 4-5 years I plan on getting a garage and then a new 2020+ Corvette, so personally, I dont need to be investing huge amounts into a $12k car when ill be getting one way better in a few years, so ill stick with the stock wheels that I like and just widen them at some point. GREAT info on this thread btw... I don't know why everyone doesnt mod their 2004-2007 V with the $700 rear suspension...
Shewww, that’s a lot of rambling man lol. Try to stay on the topic of the V2 subframe swap/parts so when other people research this it is easier for them to find the information they need to perform the swap
where did you order your V2 rear subframe from for $700?
Hey guys, decided to do a little more in depth how-to on this swap.
The special tools I needed was a deep well 34mm socket for the axle nuts, a 36mm socket for the pinion flange and a trans jack.
First I disconnect the e-brake cable. I had to pull the little tabs away from the cable end to allow them to slide out. Douse them in a lubricant and a screwdriver helps
Next was hard brake line to soft brake line connection on passenger side. 14mm wrench used here and a screwdriver to punch the clips out holding the soft lines
I just unbolted the caliper on drivers side, ran a new brake line from the hard line on the V2 rear
Unplug ABS sensor and tuck up behind the plastic fender well so you don’t break it
Disconnect driveshaft and let it hang away from the pinion so it doesn’t randomly fall and smack you in the head. This is a warning for a reason
Get your trans jack in place, secure it and take the 4 bolts out holding the cradle. I believe I used 13/16 and 15/16 sockets. Lower the cradle
Break for a beer and sweet love making to memorialize your achievement
I originally took the e-brake cable off the knuckle before I took the knuckle off the cradle. Screw that and take the knuckle off with the e-brake cable attached, you’ll have to do it anyway
Take the knuckle apart. I believe this was 14 and 15mm sockets. The goal here is to get your e-brake assembly out to put on your V2 knuckle and new hub. You may have to tap this hub from the back (giggity) with a dead blow to get it out of the knuckle
I zip tied the calipers to a little hole on the forward side of the rear wheel wells. They stayed out of the way the entire time. Left the struts in the car, just unbolted them from the knuckle
Pull the V2 knuckles off that rear (with e-brake cable attached) and take them apart as shown with V1 knuckles which take 13 and 14mm sockets. Take your V2 knuckle, lay in your V1 e-brake system and your new hub. Bolt the hub down and the your e-brake bracket and cable to the e-brake system. Sounds confusing but you will get it when it’s in tour hands. Had to cut approx 1/4” of my e-brake bolts off as they hit the back side of the lugs on the hub
New hotness assembled
Change pinion flange 36mm socket. Leave the seal alone, just off with the old, on with the new
Reconnect e-brake. What you see here is a West Virginia special since I broke the little tab off that holds the cable from falling out. It’s like factory, but different.
New brake line from caddyfly’s suggestions above. V1 and V2 hard lines are different sizes. V1 = M11x1.25 *i believe* V2 is definitely M10x1.0 This is the fitting I bought to adapt V1 hard line to V2 soft line In action
Bolt rear into the car. I reused stock bolts on the rear because the ones I spent $70 on at fastenal did not have enough thread cut into the bolt and bottomed out. The stock rear bolts have plenty bite to hold the cradle. I did use the new front bolts (M14x2x160 and M16x2x163) are the bolts I bought and are the measurements I got from GM for the V2 cradle bolts. Just make sure the threads are cut into the bolt over half way
What I am going to do to make this perfect is going to widen rear wheels inward by 2 inches and run 275 40 18 tires on rear that will make track width same as stock v1 just have to make sure they will clear that much.
Also people forget that to do this you don’t need to spend money on expensive bushings as if you do. 8.8 you still will need a lot of bushings to bring it up to handling ability of v2 rear as far as stiffness
Not luck on e-brakes still using V1 cables in V2 mounting brackets. May need to switch them per caddyfly’s recommendation. Brakes a bled and holding well, got 40 couple pretty hard miles on it, smooth and quiet! Another pic demonstrating wheel poke V2 springs = 4x4 status Shot of the rear
11-05-2019, 10:10 PM
