V2 to V1 Rear Subframe Swap
09-16-2016, 03:35 PM
#1
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V2 to V1 Rear Subframe Swap I put a V2 rear subframe in my 2005 V1 last week. Was surprisingly easy.
Here's a quick summary of what I did to make it work.
I bought a base v2 cts rear subframe from a junkyard along with base cts right and left suspension assemblies. Found a diff and axles from an M6 v2 on ebay.
I wanted to keep the stock wheels (don't ask why, I may change them in the future) so I found that a front wheel bearing hub from an 03 Pontiac Aztek (ironic?) will work. It's 33 spline, 5x115 bolt circle and the speed sensor is the same as ours, but needed to be re-drilled. I welded up two holes and had it drilled to 6x115.
I used the v1 rear e-brake assembly so I could use the stock v1 rotors. The v1 caliper bolts right up to the v2 spindle. The v1 e-brake cables worked in the subframe, one just needed to be shortened by 1/2''. Crimped on a new end and the brake holds great.
Put the subframe in, had to order the correct length m14 and m16 bolts from fastenal.
Stock v1 gas tank cleared without modifications.
I used the stock v1 rear shocks and springs. Had to cut the springs 1/2'' to get back to stock ride height.
Had a custom 3.5'' aluminum driveshaft made by The Driveshaft Shop.
Got the car aligned yesterday and was able to get it to factory specs.
Did a 4k rpm launch and NO WHEEL HOP. Also, no more gear whine on the highway and no vibration. The rear suspension doesn't squeak or clunk when going over bumps like it used to.
The car drives completely different, this is the way the car should have came from the factory.
The only issue is that the wheel is out about 1/4'' more than stock. Not a big deal and it doesn't look bad.
Here's a quick summary of what I did to make it work.
I bought a base v2 cts rear subframe from a junkyard along with base cts right and left suspension assemblies. Found a diff and axles from an M6 v2 on ebay.
I wanted to keep the stock wheels (don't ask why, I may change them in the future) so I found that a front wheel bearing hub from an 03 Pontiac Aztek (ironic?) will work. It's 33 spline, 5x115 bolt circle and the speed sensor is the same as ours, but needed to be re-drilled. I welded up two holes and had it drilled to 6x115.
I used the v1 rear e-brake assembly so I could use the stock v1 rotors. The v1 caliper bolts right up to the v2 spindle. The v1 e-brake cables worked in the subframe, one just needed to be shortened by 1/2''. Crimped on a new end and the brake holds great.
Put the subframe in, had to order the correct length m14 and m16 bolts from fastenal.
Stock v1 gas tank cleared without modifications.
I used the stock v1 rear shocks and springs. Had to cut the springs 1/2'' to get back to stock ride height.
Had a custom 3.5'' aluminum driveshaft made by The Driveshaft Shop.
Got the car aligned yesterday and was able to get it to factory specs.
Did a 4k rpm launch and NO WHEEL HOP. Also, no more gear whine on the highway and no vibration. The rear suspension doesn't squeak or clunk when going over bumps like it used to.
The car drives completely different, this is the way the car should have came from the factory.
The only issue is that the wheel is out about 1/4'' more than stock. Not a big deal and it doesn't look bad.
09-16-2016, 06:11 PM
#6
Fantastic work! Now we've gotta find a guinea pig for the aluminum V2 front subframe. 
Did you notice any weight differences between the units? Any differences in clearances?
Did you notice any weight differences between the units? Any differences in clearances?
09-16-2016, 06:14 PM
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That's awesome! I remember the original thought was the gas tank wouldn't fit with it, and you'd have to relocate the upper shock mounts or something. Sounds like that was all bogus. Looks like another bolt-in option to fix the rear now exists. Good work and thanks for sharing! I was hoping someone would try this one day and figure it out.
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09-16-2016, 06:35 PM
#8
Funny how even when it's somewhat no-brainer it takes someone just taking the time to try it.
So give me some deets on durability and gear availability? Still putting mine together so plenty of time to agonize over whether or not this is a wiser path.
Front cradle is exactly where my mind went; love to lose some weight up there. If that works and someone would FINALLY MAKE A GODDAMN HOOD WITH MORE CLEARANCE AND NOT JUST VENTS we could redneck our collective way into V2s without having to actually buy the car.
So give me some deets on durability and gear availability? Still putting mine together so plenty of time to agonize over whether or not this is a wiser path.
Front cradle is exactly where my mind went; love to lose some weight up there. If that works and someone would FINALLY MAKE A GODDAMN HOOD WITH MORE CLEARANCE AND NOT JUST VENTS we could redneck our collective way into V2s without having to actually buy the car.
09-16-2016, 06:54 PM
#9
Anyway, this is why I keep looking for cheap V1 and V2 front subframes. If I can't make a V2 front subframe work, I'll settle for a < 1" reduction in engine height on the V1 subframe, even if it requires cutting and welding to clearance around the oil pan.
09-16-2016, 11:37 PM
#13
I wouldn't call it "redneck our way into V2s." The V1 is a legitimately good platform, once you correct the shortcuts GM took to develop this car. In theory, a fully-outfitted V1 should be 300-400 lbs lighter than a V2--it's the size and weight of the ATS but with provisions for a supercharged or turbocharged LS-series V8.
Anyway, this is why I keep looking for cheap V1 and V2 front subframes. If I can't make a V2 front subframe work, I'll settle for a < 1" reduction in engine height on the V1 subframe, even if it requires cutting and welding to clearance around the oil pan.
Anyway, this is why I keep looking for cheap V1 and V2 front subframes. If I can't make a V2 front subframe work, I'll settle for a < 1" reduction in engine height on the V1 subframe, even if it requires cutting and welding to clearance around the oil pan.
In B4 you start crying about how this was your idea and you were drugged and raped while it was stolen from you. **** off
09-17-2016, 07:04 AM
#17
Nice work LSX416. CS will probably start running clearance specials on their 8.8s....
Now...if a V2 driveshaft would be a bolt-in, this would be an absolute slam dunk.
09-17-2016, 09:44 AM
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http://www.ebay.com/itm/08-13-CADILL...pWWLcc&vxp=mtr
Base V6 rear cradle like that? I'm already on 8.8 but I'd like to just clarify that for myself.
Base V6 rear cradle like that? I'm already on 8.8 but I'd like to just clarify that for myself.
09-17-2016, 10:00 AM
#19
This idea was floated the day the v2 came out as we're the 3rd or 4th generation of V1 owners to understand that the car needs help and that this could be a solution. It was just a matter of time that the parts got cheap and plentiful enough for it to make sense for someone to just buy the parts and try it.
Nice work LSX416. CS will probably start running clearance specials on their 8.8s....
Now...if a V2 driveshaft would be a bolt-in, this would be an absolute slam dunk.
Nice work LSX416. CS will probably start running clearance specials on their 8.8s....
Now...if a V2 driveshaft would be a bolt-in, this would be an absolute slam dunk.
09-17-2016, 10:02 AM
#20