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Got the engine pretty much all together, put power on it, no fuel leaks as of yet not sparks
is the NW TB right? It may not matter because I'm sure the computer will move it in the same regardless direction. I may turn it to keep it away from the tensioner
So I had a hell of a time getting the transmission in, when I did, I noticed everything was more to the passenger side. I am thinking it is the motor mounts, since the upper mounts are custom made to fit the 4 bolt iron block design and didnt have the holes for the dowel pins. I drilled the holes holes out using a protractor for measurements, but since there can be play in the bracket themselves, I believe this is what will cause my drive line issue. Would it hurt to cut the top dowel pins off the motor mounts and use the bottom brackets, which are OE, to align the motor up? I am thinking if the top brackets didnt have a dowel pin, where if it is off even a little, could affect the bottom bracket in a way it will be positioned
Man, it took me some time to remove the upper dowel pins and get the mounts aligned, but as you can see I got an 1/8 to 1/4 inch more gap. I left the upper engine mount bolts loose and and bottom 2 engine mount bolts on both sides. My idea is to align everything with the transmission. Since the set up is similar to a triangle, with the base being the engine mounts and the point where the transmission mount is, this will help driveline alignment and keep everything zero along its axis
So I'm bleeding the clutch and I'm not getting any pressure, tried the new one that I got from a kit from tick performance and the OE, and it looks like I popped both of the black guide piece. Then I realised, the dual mass plate.... FML. So i check part numbers, the slave I got from the kit is for a corvette, but not one like the Z06 I read about on. So I think what happened is they gave me the wrong slave with the monster lt1 kit. So now I have break fluid everywhere and two useless slaves. Is there a way to pop the sleeve back under the guide? Never had this problem before, like how I never had a car with a dual mass flywheel.
If the slave cyl started leaking, I'm pretty sure it's done and popping the guide back on won't help. As to your comment about the "wrong" Corvette slave cyl, they're all the same from '05 to '13. A base '05 Corvette uses the same part number as a '13 Z06. Maybe you need a ZR1 slave cyl?
If the slave cyl started leaking, I'm pretty sure it's done and popping the guide back on won't help. As to your comment about the "wrong" Corvette slave cyl, they're all the same from '05 to '13. A base '05 Corvette uses the same part number as a '13 Z06. Maybe you need a ZR1 slave cyl?
not entirely sure, when I pulled up the gm number it didn't give me a year and the one in assuming I need is the taller ls7 slave. Even on their website it says the V requires a specific slave. I just hope they can help me after months of buying their kit. Also, why doesn't the katech spacer work with monster clutches? I won't get one, just curious
The V slave cyl is shorter than the C6 Corvette slave. *All* C6 slave cyls are the same height except the ZR1. An LS2, LS3, or LS7 Vette uses the same slave cyl.
The V slave cyl is shorter than the C6 Corvette slave. *All* C6 slave cyls are the same height except the ZR1. An LS2, LS3, or LS7 Vette uses the same slave cyl.
then idk what they gave me, here are a few pics, OE on the left and what they gave me on the right
At this point, you need to get on the phone with Monster or whoever sold you the kit and see what they have to say. It sounds like the clutch stack-up is incorrect for sure. If neither slave cyl worked, there's something else going on here.
At this point, you need to get on the phone with Monster or whoever sold you the kit and see what they have to say. It sounds like the clutch stack-up is incorrect for sure. If neither slave cyl worked, there's something else going on here.
yea, the kit was from tick and they are closed on the weekends, so I will have to give them a call first thing Monday. Thank you for the link, I will see check that with the ones I have now, I know I'm way short, so it will be more useful for the newer slave
Well talking to Eli from Tick Performance, who has been great help so far, it looks like they may have sent me a slave for the ZR1 instead of the Z06, he sent out the pictures to monster since it was sourced from them, hope they ship it out to me asap, would like to get the girl purring this weekend.
Is there not a part number on the slave that could be verified rather than pictures?
This is what is etched onto it, like I said, when I googled it and use gmpartsdirect, it just showed up Corvette Slave Cylinder, 24237569. Trying to get a hold of Monster now, luckily they are not to far from me
Well I got screwed, since I am over the 60 day mark with Monster, they wont help me. So they basically got away with their screw up and I pay for my ignorance of not knowing that I needed the correct C6 slave. Now I see that everyone says to stick with GM, but was curious why, i see LUK is about 50$ cheaper, so I am assuming it is quality.
Considering you have to pull the trans to replace it if it were to fail for whatever reason, that $50 is well worth it to most. If you have a fully equipped shop with lift and trans jack and your free time is abundant, then that $50 may not be as worthy of the premium. I guess the real question is, how many shop hours is that $50 worth?
03-04-2017, 05:42 PM
