TXsilverV's H/C dyno sheet.. help him choose a cam
08-04-2006 | 02:07 AM
#2
228/232 duration .588/.595 Valve lift 114 Lobe
this is what he has now, correct?
Also, "cold-air" intake, stock manifold and tb, headers and exhaust. What kind of heads?
TxsilverV, are you planning on upgrding your valvetrain while your at it? I know you asked about the fast and most will say it isn't worth the money, however, to avoid this, how about a tpis oval'd and ported ls6 manifold? That might get you a bit more on top?
Will you still be going FI? What is the CC rating on those heads? HAve you thought about a large ci shortblock like a 382 or 370?
this is what he has now, correct?
Also, "cold-air" intake, stock manifold and tb, headers and exhaust. What kind of heads?
TxsilverV, are you planning on upgrding your valvetrain while your at it? I know you asked about the fast and most will say it isn't worth the money, however, to avoid this, how about a tpis oval'd and ported ls6 manifold? That might get you a bit more on top?
Will you still be going FI? What is the CC rating on those heads? HAve you thought about a large ci shortblock like a 382 or 370?
08-04-2006 | 09:09 AM
#3
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From: Murrieta Ca.
Originally Posted by obZidian
228/232 duration .588/.595 Valve lift 114 Lobe
this is what he has now, correct?
Also, "cold-air" intake, stock manifold and tb, headers and exhaust. What kind of heads?
TxsilverV, are you planning on upgrding your valvetrain while your at it? I know you asked about the fast and most will say it isn't worth the money, however, to avoid this, how about a tpis oval'd and ported ls6 manifold? That might get you a bit more on top?
Will you still be going FI? What is the CC rating on those heads? HAve you thought about a large ci shortblock like a 382 or 370?
this is what he has now, correct?
Also, "cold-air" intake, stock manifold and tb, headers and exhaust. What kind of heads?
TxsilverV, are you planning on upgrding your valvetrain while your at it? I know you asked about the fast and most will say it isn't worth the money, however, to avoid this, how about a tpis oval'd and ported ls6 manifold? That might get you a bit more on top?
Will you still be going FI? What is the CC rating on those heads? HAve you thought about a large ci shortblock like a 382 or 370?
08-04-2006 | 09:24 AM
#4
Well I think one of the first things I need to do is change my injectors after reading the other post. Makes me a little nervous putting a 100 shot with my stock ones. I have already bought the fast intake(90MM) but I'm not sure if I have everything. Don't I need another part other than just the intake?
I will be changing my cam out so I have more bottom TQ. If I knew more about cars I would go ahead and do a stroker Kit. But I have no idea how big I can go!
FI has been put on hold till we have a rear end that will last since i'm on #4!
I will be changing my cam out so I have more bottom TQ. If I knew more about cars I would go ahead and do a stroker Kit. But I have no idea how big I can go!
FI has been put on hold till we have a rear end that will last since i'm on #4!
08-04-2006 | 09:53 AM
#5
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From: Murrieta Ca.
Originally Posted by TXSilverV
Well I think one of the first things I need to do is change my injectors after reading the other post. Makes me a little nervous putting a 100 shot with my stock ones. I have already bought the fast intake(90MM) but I'm not sure if I have everything. Don't I need another part other than just the intake?
I will be changing my cam out so I have more bottom TQ. If I knew more about cars I would go ahead and do a stroker Kit. But I have no idea how big I can go!
FI has been put on hold till we have a rear end that will last since i'm on #4!
I will be changing my cam out so I have more bottom TQ. If I knew more about cars I would go ahead and do a stroker Kit. But I have no idea how big I can go!
FI has been put on hold till we have a rear end that will last since i'm on #4!
Email sent.
08-05-2006 | 12:27 AM
#6
what year is your car?
I ask becuz if its an 06, you could reuse your TB. But, if not, you would probably need another tb depending on which unit you got. If a 90mm, i woul get the NW, drive by wire unit, it hasnt; had any issues of all the TB's around and ppl like it.
Since you said you might go with a 100 shot, i would take advantage of the nitrous ports built into the manifold. Also, get a set of their burst panels. They vent a backfire of nitrous, if you ever have one, and protect your "inverstment" Those two parts are what i would use/get for the manifold.
As for the injectors, that all depends on that is your target hp. Let say, with a nice 100 shot and a larger ci shortblock, you shot for 600FWHP. Well, at that level of power, i would suggest a 42lb injector. You could also try a 38lb but at that power level, i like to stay around the 75% duty cycle range for the injectors. At 600hp, your 38's will probably be at or above 80%, the industry standard for an injector beginning to "poop-out", and that is a bit too close for me. I like to stay with, N/A application, a 50% B.S.F.C. as well (the amount of fuel efficiency your motor has. Lower the percentage, the lower the amount of fuel your motor consumes. N/A is around 40%-50%, FI is around 60% -70% est.), so with those factors, that will yield a 42lb injector at 60psi of fuel pressure. I like to stay safe with fuel and since your gonna go nitrous, a bit more headroom will probably mean the difference between a health motor and a blown one.
As for the cam, well, i would first see which direction i would like to take, then find a guide that can lead the way". The cam is your guide, your composer of your motor. Complicated simplicity really.
Since your gonna go nitrous and/or a larger ci shortblock, i would see where you stand, see what kind of power and application you want to exert this car to, and then pick you poison. A nitrous cam is very different compared to a N/A can so a custom, one-off cam is what i would do, given all of your factors like head flow, cc's, CR, intake and exhaust mods, weather... blah blah blah!!
As for the motor, there are a few different ways you cn go... ut make sure you know that you want in the future before you go ahead and pick a shortblock/longblock.
For example, if you want to go boost, dont build the motor for nitrous now since you will have to open here up again to change pistons, rings,and bearings. Also, a boost more will have a lower CR, compression ratio, and will be more sluggish when riding compared to a nirtous, higher compression ratio'd, motor.
So, if your gonna build it for boost, WAIT!!! Wait until you KNOW your gonna go boost and then build a shortblock/longblock for your application. These motors will hold a good, well tuned, 150 shot of juice. Spray 100 and get used to it. If you want more, well, i wouldn' go muchd, if at all, above 150. But maek sure its well tuned and you have your window switches, timing retards, fail safe switches, correct bottle installation and adequate bottle pressure. Get a good botle warmer as well.
Now, if you know you are gonna stay N/A of with a SHOT, then you can go ahead and build a nice shortblock for your car. You have two choices in material. Aluminum and iron. They both have their obvious pros/cons... but basically, the iron will hold more but be heavier, the aluminum will weigh less yet not be as Tough as a iron block. That is not to say that the aluminum wont hold, it will, if all things are treated to the factors of each application, a aluminum will last just as long, depending the given application.
Now, you can go with a 347ci aluminum, 364ci aluminum (stock ls2) 382ci aluminum, 402ci aluminum, or a 427ci aluminum. For the iron, you have a 370ci and a 408ci There are numerous other applications but this is the norm.
For a nitrous application, and given our rears, i would prefer to stay away from sleeves. This is my preference, and that is that. A nice 347ci shortblock will be nice. Not much in cubes but the motor can take motor. I would do a 382 though, raise the compression to 11.3-11.5ish C.R., shot 200+ at it and call it a day. You could do the 370 iron, it will weigh a bit more in the front, but will take a bit more punishment, have a bit more power just from the cubes.
That would be a nice setup!! Nitrous, H/C 370iron/382al. would be sweet. Would get the job done, and have room to grow with proper nitrous care.
Im more partial to boost, but pick you poison and what really drives you....
Oh, another thing, we all know that our rears aren't the best around. they dont fail as bad as ppl think but they sure dont hold either. For high nitrous applications, riders sometimes use a progressive nitrous controller to easy in the nitrous hit, kinda like boost building up.
I KNOW THAT MOST WILL SAY THAT A 150 OR A 100 SHOT IS TAME ENOUGH FOR YOU NOT TO RUN A PREGRESSIVE, However, IMO, with our currect rear situation, i elect to use one if i went with a 150shot of more with these rears. The motor can take it, but the rear wont. It gives out with sotck to bolt-on power.... How do you think it will like a sudden surge of power and friction, instead a gradual increase of it? Me, i would do it but its definitely not a requirement, not necesary. I will probabl yget **** for it but i dont care really, i like to be safe then sorry.
Ok mang, laterZ!! See what you want to do with the car and take it from there. Teh cam should be picked when you have that decision made. I would suggest a set of 42lb injectors for a 600FWHP range with nitrous or no-nitrous actually. You should be fine with the manifold, but since your going with a nitrous appl. get the burst panels and use the direct bungs in the manifold. A direct shot is more expensive then a wet, for example. If you dont want or cannot afford to but a direct shot kit, there is a plate wet kit that bolts up behind the TB that is very nice and well thought out. check it out!!
Ok, for real, laterZ!
I ask becuz if its an 06, you could reuse your TB. But, if not, you would probably need another tb depending on which unit you got. If a 90mm, i woul get the NW, drive by wire unit, it hasnt; had any issues of all the TB's around and ppl like it.
Since you said you might go with a 100 shot, i would take advantage of the nitrous ports built into the manifold. Also, get a set of their burst panels. They vent a backfire of nitrous, if you ever have one, and protect your "inverstment" Those two parts are what i would use/get for the manifold.
As for the injectors, that all depends on that is your target hp. Let say, with a nice 100 shot and a larger ci shortblock, you shot for 600FWHP. Well, at that level of power, i would suggest a 42lb injector. You could also try a 38lb but at that power level, i like to stay around the 75% duty cycle range for the injectors. At 600hp, your 38's will probably be at or above 80%, the industry standard for an injector beginning to "poop-out", and that is a bit too close for me. I like to stay with, N/A application, a 50% B.S.F.C. as well (the amount of fuel efficiency your motor has. Lower the percentage, the lower the amount of fuel your motor consumes. N/A is around 40%-50%, FI is around 60% -70% est.), so with those factors, that will yield a 42lb injector at 60psi of fuel pressure. I like to stay safe with fuel and since your gonna go nitrous, a bit more headroom will probably mean the difference between a health motor and a blown one.
As for the cam, well, i would first see which direction i would like to take, then find a guide that can lead the way". The cam is your guide, your composer of your motor. Complicated simplicity really.
Since your gonna go nitrous and/or a larger ci shortblock, i would see where you stand, see what kind of power and application you want to exert this car to, and then pick you poison. A nitrous cam is very different compared to a N/A can so a custom, one-off cam is what i would do, given all of your factors like head flow, cc's, CR, intake and exhaust mods, weather... blah blah blah!!
As for the motor, there are a few different ways you cn go... ut make sure you know that you want in the future before you go ahead and pick a shortblock/longblock.
For example, if you want to go boost, dont build the motor for nitrous now since you will have to open here up again to change pistons, rings,and bearings. Also, a boost more will have a lower CR, compression ratio, and will be more sluggish when riding compared to a nirtous, higher compression ratio'd, motor.
So, if your gonna build it for boost, WAIT!!! Wait until you KNOW your gonna go boost and then build a shortblock/longblock for your application. These motors will hold a good, well tuned, 150 shot of juice. Spray 100 and get used to it. If you want more, well, i wouldn' go muchd, if at all, above 150. But maek sure its well tuned and you have your window switches, timing retards, fail safe switches, correct bottle installation and adequate bottle pressure. Get a good botle warmer as well.
Now, if you know you are gonna stay N/A of with a SHOT, then you can go ahead and build a nice shortblock for your car. You have two choices in material. Aluminum and iron. They both have their obvious pros/cons... but basically, the iron will hold more but be heavier, the aluminum will weigh less yet not be as Tough as a iron block. That is not to say that the aluminum wont hold, it will, if all things are treated to the factors of each application, a aluminum will last just as long, depending the given application.
Now, you can go with a 347ci aluminum, 364ci aluminum (stock ls2) 382ci aluminum, 402ci aluminum, or a 427ci aluminum. For the iron, you have a 370ci and a 408ci There are numerous other applications but this is the norm.
For a nitrous application, and given our rears, i would prefer to stay away from sleeves. This is my preference, and that is that. A nice 347ci shortblock will be nice. Not much in cubes but the motor can take motor. I would do a 382 though, raise the compression to 11.3-11.5ish C.R., shot 200+ at it and call it a day. You could do the 370 iron, it will weigh a bit more in the front, but will take a bit more punishment, have a bit more power just from the cubes.
That would be a nice setup!! Nitrous, H/C 370iron/382al. would be sweet. Would get the job done, and have room to grow with proper nitrous care.
Im more partial to boost, but pick you poison and what really drives you....
Oh, another thing, we all know that our rears aren't the best around. they dont fail as bad as ppl think but they sure dont hold either. For high nitrous applications, riders sometimes use a progressive nitrous controller to easy in the nitrous hit, kinda like boost building up.
I KNOW THAT MOST WILL SAY THAT A 150 OR A 100 SHOT IS TAME ENOUGH FOR YOU NOT TO RUN A PREGRESSIVE, However, IMO, with our currect rear situation, i elect to use one if i went with a 150shot of more with these rears. The motor can take it, but the rear wont. It gives out with sotck to bolt-on power.... How do you think it will like a sudden surge of power and friction, instead a gradual increase of it? Me, i would do it but its definitely not a requirement, not necesary. I will probabl yget **** for it but i dont care really, i like to be safe then sorry.
Ok mang, laterZ!! See what you want to do with the car and take it from there. Teh cam should be picked when you have that decision made. I would suggest a set of 42lb injectors for a 600FWHP range with nitrous or no-nitrous actually. You should be fine with the manifold, but since your going with a nitrous appl. get the burst panels and use the direct bungs in the manifold. A direct shot is more expensive then a wet, for example. If you dont want or cannot afford to but a direct shot kit, there is a plate wet kit that bolts up behind the TB that is very nice and well thought out. check it out!!
Ok, for real, laterZ!
08-05-2006 | 08:34 AM
#7
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From: Murrieta Ca.
Originally Posted by obZidian
what year is your car?
I ask becuz if its an 06, you could reuse your TB. But, if not, you would probably need another tb depending on which unit you got. If a 90mm, i woul get the NW, drive by wire unit, it hasnt; had any issues of all the TB's around and ppl like it.
Since you said you might go with a 100 shot, i would take advantage of the nitrous ports built into the manifold. Also, get a set of their burst panels. They vent a backfire of nitrous, if you ever have one, and protect your "inverstment" Those two parts are what i would use/get for the manifold.
As for the injectors, that all depends on that is your target hp. Let say, with a nice 100 shot and a larger ci shortblock, you shot for 600FWHP. Well, at that level of power, i would suggest a 42lb injector. You could also try a 38lb but at that power level, i like to stay around the 75% duty cycle range for the injectors. At 600hp, your 38's will probably be at or above 80%, the industry standard for an injector beginning to "poop-out", and that is a bit too close for me. I like to stay with, N/A application, a 50% B.S.F.C. as well (the amount of fuel efficiency your motor has. Lower the percentage, the lower the amount of fuel your motor consumes. N/A is around 40%-50%, FI is around 60% -70% est.), so with those factors, that will yield a 42lb injector at 60psi of fuel pressure. I like to stay safe with fuel and since your gonna go nitrous, a bit more headroom will probably mean the difference between a health motor and a blown one.
As for the cam, well, i would first see which direction i would like to take, then find a guide that can lead the way". The cam is your guide, your composer of your motor. Complicated simplicity really.
Since your gonna go nitrous and/or a larger ci shortblock, i would see where you stand, see what kind of power and application you want to exert this car to, and then pick you poison. A nitrous cam is very different compared to a N/A can so a custom, one-off cam is what i would do, given all of your factors like head flow, cc's, CR, intake and exhaust mods, weather... blah blah blah!!
As for the motor, there are a few different ways you cn go... ut make sure you know that you want in the future before you go ahead and pick a shortblock/longblock.
For example, if you want to go boost, dont build the motor for nitrous now since you will have to open here up again to change pistons, rings,and bearings. Also, a boost more will have a lower CR, compression ratio, and will be more sluggish when riding compared to a nirtous, higher compression ratio'd, motor.
So, if your gonna build it for boost, WAIT!!! Wait until you KNOW your gonna go boost and then build a shortblock/longblock for your application. These motors will hold a good, well tuned, 150 shot of juice. Spray 100 and get used to it. If you want more, well, i wouldn' go muchd, if at all, above 150. But maek sure its well tuned and you have your window switches, timing retards, fail safe switches, correct bottle installation and adequate bottle pressure. Get a good botle warmer as well.
Now, if you know you are gonna stay N/A of with a SHOT, then you can go ahead and build a nice shortblock for your car. You have two choices in material. Aluminum and iron. They both have their obvious pros/cons... but basically, the iron will hold more but be heavier, the aluminum will weigh less yet not be as Tough as a iron block. That is not to say that the aluminum wont hold, it will, if all things are treated to the factors of each application, a aluminum will last just as long, depending the given application.
Now, you can go with a 347ci aluminum, 364ci aluminum (stock ls2) 382ci aluminum, 402ci aluminum, or a 427ci aluminum. For the iron, you have a 370ci and a 408ci There are numerous other applications but this is the norm.
For a nitrous application, and given our rears, i would prefer to stay away from sleeves. This is my preference, and that is that. A nice 347ci shortblock will be nice. Not much in cubes but the motor can take motor. I would do a 382 though, raise the compression to 11.3-11.5ish C.R., shot 200+ at it and call it a day. You could do the 370 iron, it will weigh a bit more in the front, but will take a bit more punishment, have a bit more power just from the cubes.
That would be a nice setup!! Nitrous, H/C 370iron/382al. would be sweet. Would get the job done, and have room to grow with proper nitrous care.
Im more partial to boost, but pick you poison and what really drives you....
Oh, another thing, we all know that our rears aren't the best around. they dont fail as bad as ppl think but they sure dont hold either. For high nitrous applications, riders sometimes use a progressive nitrous controller to easy in the nitrous hit, kinda like boost building up.
I KNOW THAT MOST WILL SAY THAT A 150 OR A 100 SHOT IS TAME ENOUGH FOR YOU NOT TO RUN A PREGRESSIVE, However, IMO, with our currect rear situation, i elect to use one if i went with a 150shot of more with these rears. The motor can take it, but the rear wont. It gives out with sotck to bolt-on power.... How do you think it will like a sudden surge of power and friction, instead a gradual increase of it? Me, i would do it but its definitely not a requirement, not necesary. I will probabl yget **** for it but i dont care really, i like to be safe then sorry.
Ok mang, laterZ!! See what you want to do with the car and take it from there. Teh cam should be picked when you have that decision made. I would suggest a set of 42lb injectors for a 600FWHP range with nitrous or no-nitrous actually. You should be fine with the manifold, but since your going with a nitrous appl. get the burst panels and use the direct bungs in the manifold. A direct shot is more expensive then a wet, for example. If you dont want or cannot afford to but a direct shot kit, there is a plate wet kit that bolts up behind the TB that is very nice and well thought out. check it out!!
Ok, for real, laterZ!
I ask becuz if its an 06, you could reuse your TB. But, if not, you would probably need another tb depending on which unit you got. If a 90mm, i woul get the NW, drive by wire unit, it hasnt; had any issues of all the TB's around and ppl like it.
Since you said you might go with a 100 shot, i would take advantage of the nitrous ports built into the manifold. Also, get a set of their burst panels. They vent a backfire of nitrous, if you ever have one, and protect your "inverstment" Those two parts are what i would use/get for the manifold.
As for the injectors, that all depends on that is your target hp. Let say, with a nice 100 shot and a larger ci shortblock, you shot for 600FWHP. Well, at that level of power, i would suggest a 42lb injector. You could also try a 38lb but at that power level, i like to stay around the 75% duty cycle range for the injectors. At 600hp, your 38's will probably be at or above 80%, the industry standard for an injector beginning to "poop-out", and that is a bit too close for me. I like to stay with, N/A application, a 50% B.S.F.C. as well (the amount of fuel efficiency your motor has. Lower the percentage, the lower the amount of fuel your motor consumes. N/A is around 40%-50%, FI is around 60% -70% est.), so with those factors, that will yield a 42lb injector at 60psi of fuel pressure. I like to stay safe with fuel and since your gonna go nitrous, a bit more headroom will probably mean the difference between a health motor and a blown one.
As for the cam, well, i would first see which direction i would like to take, then find a guide that can lead the way". The cam is your guide, your composer of your motor. Complicated simplicity really.
Since your gonna go nitrous and/or a larger ci shortblock, i would see where you stand, see what kind of power and application you want to exert this car to, and then pick you poison. A nitrous cam is very different compared to a N/A can so a custom, one-off cam is what i would do, given all of your factors like head flow, cc's, CR, intake and exhaust mods, weather... blah blah blah!!
As for the motor, there are a few different ways you cn go... ut make sure you know that you want in the future before you go ahead and pick a shortblock/longblock.
For example, if you want to go boost, dont build the motor for nitrous now since you will have to open here up again to change pistons, rings,and bearings. Also, a boost more will have a lower CR, compression ratio, and will be more sluggish when riding compared to a nirtous, higher compression ratio'd, motor.
So, if your gonna build it for boost, WAIT!!! Wait until you KNOW your gonna go boost and then build a shortblock/longblock for your application. These motors will hold a good, well tuned, 150 shot of juice. Spray 100 and get used to it. If you want more, well, i wouldn' go muchd, if at all, above 150. But maek sure its well tuned and you have your window switches, timing retards, fail safe switches, correct bottle installation and adequate bottle pressure. Get a good botle warmer as well.
Now, if you know you are gonna stay N/A of with a SHOT, then you can go ahead and build a nice shortblock for your car. You have two choices in material. Aluminum and iron. They both have their obvious pros/cons... but basically, the iron will hold more but be heavier, the aluminum will weigh less yet not be as Tough as a iron block. That is not to say that the aluminum wont hold, it will, if all things are treated to the factors of each application, a aluminum will last just as long, depending the given application.
Now, you can go with a 347ci aluminum, 364ci aluminum (stock ls2) 382ci aluminum, 402ci aluminum, or a 427ci aluminum. For the iron, you have a 370ci and a 408ci There are numerous other applications but this is the norm.
For a nitrous application, and given our rears, i would prefer to stay away from sleeves. This is my preference, and that is that. A nice 347ci shortblock will be nice. Not much in cubes but the motor can take motor. I would do a 382 though, raise the compression to 11.3-11.5ish C.R., shot 200+ at it and call it a day. You could do the 370 iron, it will weigh a bit more in the front, but will take a bit more punishment, have a bit more power just from the cubes.
That would be a nice setup!! Nitrous, H/C 370iron/382al. would be sweet. Would get the job done, and have room to grow with proper nitrous care.
Im more partial to boost, but pick you poison and what really drives you....
Oh, another thing, we all know that our rears aren't the best around. they dont fail as bad as ppl think but they sure dont hold either. For high nitrous applications, riders sometimes use a progressive nitrous controller to easy in the nitrous hit, kinda like boost building up.
I KNOW THAT MOST WILL SAY THAT A 150 OR A 100 SHOT IS TAME ENOUGH FOR YOU NOT TO RUN A PREGRESSIVE, However, IMO, with our currect rear situation, i elect to use one if i went with a 150shot of more with these rears. The motor can take it, but the rear wont. It gives out with sotck to bolt-on power.... How do you think it will like a sudden surge of power and friction, instead a gradual increase of it? Me, i would do it but its definitely not a requirement, not necesary. I will probabl yget **** for it but i dont care really, i like to be safe then sorry.
Ok mang, laterZ!! See what you want to do with the car and take it from there. Teh cam should be picked when you have that decision made. I would suggest a set of 42lb injectors for a 600FWHP range with nitrous or no-nitrous actually. You should be fine with the manifold, but since your going with a nitrous appl. get the burst panels and use the direct bungs in the manifold. A direct shot is more expensive then a wet, for example. If you dont want or cannot afford to but a direct shot kit, there is a plate wet kit that bolts up behind the TB that is very nice and well thought out. check it out!!
Ok, for real, laterZ!
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08-13-2006 | 12:35 PM
#10
On The Tree
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 108
Likes: 0
Originally Posted by obZidian
what year is your car?
I ask becuz if its an 06, you could reuse your TB. But, if not, you would probably need another tb depending on which unit you got. If a 90mm, i woul get the NW, drive by wire unit, it hasnt; had any issues of all the TB's around and ppl like it.
Since you said you might go with a 100 shot, i would take advantage of the nitrous ports built into the manifold. Also, get a set of their burst panels. They vent a backfire of nitrous, if you ever have one, and protect your "inverstment" Those two parts are what i would use/get for the manifold.
As for the injectors, that all depends on that is your target hp. Let say, with a nice 100 shot and a larger ci shortblock, you shot for 600FWHP. Well, at that level of power, i would suggest a 42lb injector. You could also try a 38lb but at that power level, i like to stay around the 75% duty cycle range for the injectors. At 600hp, your 38's will probably be at or above 80%, the industry standard for an injector beginning to "poop-out", and that is a bit too close for me. I like to stay with, N/A application, a 50% B.S.F.C. as well (the amount of fuel efficiency your motor has. Lower the percentage, the lower the amount of fuel your motor consumes. N/A is around 40%-50%, FI is around 60% -70% est.), so with those factors, that will yield a 42lb injector at 60psi of fuel pressure. I like to stay safe with fuel and since your gonna go nitrous, a bit more headroom will probably mean the difference between a health motor and a blown one.
As for the cam, well, i would first see which direction i would like to take, then find a guide that can lead the way". The cam is your guide, your composer of your motor. Complicated simplicity really.
Since your gonna go nitrous and/or a larger ci shortblock, i would see where you stand, see what kind of power and application you want to exert this car to, and then pick you poison. A nitrous cam is very different compared to a N/A can so a custom, one-off cam is what i would do, given all of your factors like head flow, cc's, CR, intake and exhaust mods, weather... blah blah blah!!
As for the motor, there are a few different ways you cn go... ut make sure you know that you want in the future before you go ahead and pick a shortblock/longblock.
For example, if you want to go boost, dont build the motor for nitrous now since you will have to open here up again to change pistons, rings,and bearings. Also, a boost more will have a lower CR, compression ratio, and will be more sluggish when riding compared to a nirtous, higher compression ratio'd, motor.
So, if your gonna build it for boost, WAIT!!! Wait until you KNOW your gonna go boost and then build a shortblock/longblock for your application. These motors will hold a good, well tuned, 150 shot of juice. Spray 100 and get used to it. If you want more, well, i wouldn' go muchd, if at all, above 150. But maek sure its well tuned and you have your window switches, timing retards, fail safe switches, correct bottle installation and adequate bottle pressure. Get a good botle warmer as well.
Now, if you know you are gonna stay N/A of with a SHOT, then you can go ahead and build a nice shortblock for your car. You have two choices in material. Aluminum and iron. They both have their obvious pros/cons... but basically, the iron will hold more but be heavier, the aluminum will weigh less yet not be as Tough as a iron block. That is not to say that the aluminum wont hold, it will, if all things are treated to the factors of each application, a aluminum will last just as long, depending the given application.
Now, you can go with a 347ci aluminum, 364ci aluminum (stock ls2) 382ci aluminum, 402ci aluminum, or a 427ci aluminum. For the iron, you have a 370ci and a 408ci There are numerous other applications but this is the norm.
For a nitrous application, and given our rears, i would prefer to stay away from sleeves. This is my preference, and that is that. A nice 347ci shortblock will be nice. Not much in cubes but the motor can take motor. I would do a 382 though, raise the compression to 11.3-11.5ish C.R., shot 200+ at it and call it a day. You could do the 370 iron, it will weigh a bit more in the front, but will take a bit more punishment, have a bit more power just from the cubes.
That would be a nice setup!! Nitrous, H/C 370iron/382al. would be sweet. Would get the job done, and have room to grow with proper nitrous care.
Im more partial to boost, but pick you poison and what really drives you....
Oh, another thing, we all know that our rears aren't the best around. they dont fail as bad as ppl think but they sure dont hold either. For high nitrous applications, riders sometimes use a progressive nitrous controller to easy in the nitrous hit, kinda like boost building up.
I KNOW THAT MOST WILL SAY THAT A 150 OR A 100 SHOT IS TAME ENOUGH FOR YOU NOT TO RUN A PREGRESSIVE, However, IMO, with our currect rear situation, i elect to use one if i went with a 150shot of more with these rears. The motor can take it, but the rear wont. It gives out with sotck to bolt-on power.... How do you think it will like a sudden surge of power and friction, instead a gradual increase of it? Me, i would do it but its definitely not a requirement, not necesary. I will probabl yget **** for it but i dont care really, i like to be safe then sorry.
Ok mang, laterZ!! See what you want to do with the car and take it from there. Teh cam should be picked when you have that decision made. I would suggest a set of 42lb injectors for a 600FWHP range with nitrous or no-nitrous actually. You should be fine with the manifold, but since your going with a nitrous appl. get the burst panels and use the direct bungs in the manifold. A direct shot is more expensive then a wet, for example. If you dont want or cannot afford to but a direct shot kit, there is a plate wet kit that bolts up behind the TB that is very nice and well thought out. check it out!!
Ok, for real, laterZ!
I ask becuz if its an 06, you could reuse your TB. But, if not, you would probably need another tb depending on which unit you got. If a 90mm, i woul get the NW, drive by wire unit, it hasnt; had any issues of all the TB's around and ppl like it.
Since you said you might go with a 100 shot, i would take advantage of the nitrous ports built into the manifold. Also, get a set of their burst panels. They vent a backfire of nitrous, if you ever have one, and protect your "inverstment" Those two parts are what i would use/get for the manifold.
As for the injectors, that all depends on that is your target hp. Let say, with a nice 100 shot and a larger ci shortblock, you shot for 600FWHP. Well, at that level of power, i would suggest a 42lb injector. You could also try a 38lb but at that power level, i like to stay around the 75% duty cycle range for the injectors. At 600hp, your 38's will probably be at or above 80%, the industry standard for an injector beginning to "poop-out", and that is a bit too close for me. I like to stay with, N/A application, a 50% B.S.F.C. as well (the amount of fuel efficiency your motor has. Lower the percentage, the lower the amount of fuel your motor consumes. N/A is around 40%-50%, FI is around 60% -70% est.), so with those factors, that will yield a 42lb injector at 60psi of fuel pressure. I like to stay safe with fuel and since your gonna go nitrous, a bit more headroom will probably mean the difference between a health motor and a blown one.
As for the cam, well, i would first see which direction i would like to take, then find a guide that can lead the way". The cam is your guide, your composer of your motor. Complicated simplicity really.
Since your gonna go nitrous and/or a larger ci shortblock, i would see where you stand, see what kind of power and application you want to exert this car to, and then pick you poison. A nitrous cam is very different compared to a N/A can so a custom, one-off cam is what i would do, given all of your factors like head flow, cc's, CR, intake and exhaust mods, weather... blah blah blah!!
As for the motor, there are a few different ways you cn go... ut make sure you know that you want in the future before you go ahead and pick a shortblock/longblock.
For example, if you want to go boost, dont build the motor for nitrous now since you will have to open here up again to change pistons, rings,and bearings. Also, a boost more will have a lower CR, compression ratio, and will be more sluggish when riding compared to a nirtous, higher compression ratio'd, motor.
So, if your gonna build it for boost, WAIT!!! Wait until you KNOW your gonna go boost and then build a shortblock/longblock for your application. These motors will hold a good, well tuned, 150 shot of juice. Spray 100 and get used to it. If you want more, well, i wouldn' go muchd, if at all, above 150. But maek sure its well tuned and you have your window switches, timing retards, fail safe switches, correct bottle installation and adequate bottle pressure. Get a good botle warmer as well.
Now, if you know you are gonna stay N/A of with a SHOT, then you can go ahead and build a nice shortblock for your car. You have two choices in material. Aluminum and iron. They both have their obvious pros/cons... but basically, the iron will hold more but be heavier, the aluminum will weigh less yet not be as Tough as a iron block. That is not to say that the aluminum wont hold, it will, if all things are treated to the factors of each application, a aluminum will last just as long, depending the given application.
Now, you can go with a 347ci aluminum, 364ci aluminum (stock ls2) 382ci aluminum, 402ci aluminum, or a 427ci aluminum. For the iron, you have a 370ci and a 408ci There are numerous other applications but this is the norm.
For a nitrous application, and given our rears, i would prefer to stay away from sleeves. This is my preference, and that is that. A nice 347ci shortblock will be nice. Not much in cubes but the motor can take motor. I would do a 382 though, raise the compression to 11.3-11.5ish C.R., shot 200+ at it and call it a day. You could do the 370 iron, it will weigh a bit more in the front, but will take a bit more punishment, have a bit more power just from the cubes.
That would be a nice setup!! Nitrous, H/C 370iron/382al. would be sweet. Would get the job done, and have room to grow with proper nitrous care.
Im more partial to boost, but pick you poison and what really drives you....
Oh, another thing, we all know that our rears aren't the best around. they dont fail as bad as ppl think but they sure dont hold either. For high nitrous applications, riders sometimes use a progressive nitrous controller to easy in the nitrous hit, kinda like boost building up.
I KNOW THAT MOST WILL SAY THAT A 150 OR A 100 SHOT IS TAME ENOUGH FOR YOU NOT TO RUN A PREGRESSIVE, However, IMO, with our currect rear situation, i elect to use one if i went with a 150shot of more with these rears. The motor can take it, but the rear wont. It gives out with sotck to bolt-on power.... How do you think it will like a sudden surge of power and friction, instead a gradual increase of it? Me, i would do it but its definitely not a requirement, not necesary. I will probabl yget **** for it but i dont care really, i like to be safe then sorry.
Ok mang, laterZ!! See what you want to do with the car and take it from there. Teh cam should be picked when you have that decision made. I would suggest a set of 42lb injectors for a 600FWHP range with nitrous or no-nitrous actually. You should be fine with the manifold, but since your going with a nitrous appl. get the burst panels and use the direct bungs in the manifold. A direct shot is more expensive then a wet, for example. If you dont want or cannot afford to but a direct shot kit, there is a plate wet kit that bolts up behind the TB that is very nice and well thought out. check it out!!
Ok, for real, laterZ!
Ob where's my cam damnit?
You live close you can just drop it off at my house.
