Where to get 2004 Self-Exciting Regulator?
#1
Teching In
Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Apr 2006
Posts: 19
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Where to get 2004 Self-Exciting Regulator?
Just thought I'd throw this out for some random tech info...
For those of us with an LSX that will start at over 14V and stay at 12.5 when warm. The alternator from an Fbody LS1 is externally regulated. The alternator from a 2004 GTO LS1 is internally regulated. If you switch one with the other, you should stay at around 14V all the time. Now if I can find the regulator, I should be able to confirm this. Any thoughts on where I can find one?
For those of us with an LSX that will start at over 14V and stay at 12.5 when warm. The alternator from an Fbody LS1 is externally regulated. The alternator from a 2004 GTO LS1 is internally regulated. If you switch one with the other, you should stay at around 14V all the time. Now if I can find the regulator, I should be able to confirm this. Any thoughts on where I can find one?
#5
Teching In
Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Apr 2006
Posts: 19
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Finally got to do some work on the car yesterday. I warmed her up and the new regulator kept the voltage pegged at just over 14.5. Works perfectly...
Here's a write-up:http://www.v8rx7forum.com/v8-rx7-tec...r-upgrade.html
Here's a write-up:http://www.v8rx7forum.com/v8-rx7-tec...r-upgrade.html
#6
Having a similar problem, found the D702SE online for ~$25
http://www.ase-supply.com/product_p/trs-d702se.htm
http://www.ase-supply.com/product_p/trs-d702se.htm
Trending Topics
#9
TECH Fanatic
iTrader: (45)
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Clarksville, TN
Posts: 1,122
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I personally am not liking my comparatively low voltage that comes into effect soon after the first couple of minutes after starting the engine. It has good voltage for a few minutes and then drops below 13. The underdrive pulley probably doesn't help much either.
edit: I did a search for alternator and this was one of the threads that came up. I just saw this was in the Canadian section but hey whatever
Last edited by wht01ws6ta; 11-23-2008 at 08:20 PM.
#10
TECH Fanatic
iTrader: (13)
So you're saying if the voltage is at ~14 volts then the alternator can overheat? What does the low RPMs have to do with overheating?
I personally am not liking my comparatively low voltage that comes into effect soon after the first couple of minutes after starting the engine. It has good voltage for a few minutes and then drops below 13. The underdrive pulley probably doesn't help much either.
edit: I did a search for alternator and this was one of the threads that came up. I just saw this was in the Canadian section but hey whatever
I personally am not liking my comparatively low voltage that comes into effect soon after the first couple of minutes after starting the engine. It has good voltage for a few minutes and then drops below 13. The underdrive pulley probably doesn't help much either.
edit: I did a search for alternator and this was one of the threads that came up. I just saw this was in the Canadian section but hey whatever
The alternator is not spinning fast enough to cool its self at low rpms. GM has done this since the late 80's. Even dimming headlights at idle is considered normal operation.
#11
TECH Fanatic
iTrader: (45)
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Clarksville, TN
Posts: 1,122
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
But what about the alternators after a certain year (04 I think) that keep the voltage at about 14volt? Are they a different design that keeps them cooler?
Just trying to get an idea before I try a regulator that will increase the voltage all of the time...
#13
Teching In
Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Apr 2006
Posts: 19
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I thought maybe it had to do with how fast the air was moving. So, is there just a risk of the alternator overheating and prematurely failing?
But what about the alternators after a certain year (04 I think) that keep the voltage at about 14volt? Are they a different design that keeps them cooler?
Just trying to get an idea before I try a regulator that will increase the voltage all of the time...
But what about the alternators after a certain year (04 I think) that keep the voltage at about 14volt? Are they a different design that keeps them cooler?
Just trying to get an idea before I try a regulator that will increase the voltage all of the time...
The alternators are identical except for the regulator. Maybe someone who is familiar with GTOs can chime in with mounting location. If it's alright and doesn't overheat in 2004s, I can't see why it can't be alright for all LS1s. I haven't had any problems yet. I'd also be more worried about overheating in extended high RPM, high current situations than in low RPM.
And no, the alternator is actually putting out 14V. I have a gauge mounted at the fuel pump and it stays at 14V now no matter what RPMs I'm at.
I'd feel better frying an alternator than leaning out.
#15
TECH Fanatic
iTrader: (45)
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Clarksville, TN
Posts: 1,122
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
The alternators are identical except for the regulator. Maybe someone who is familiar with GTOs can chime in with mounting location. If it's alright and doesn't overheat in 2004s, I can't see why it can't be alright for all LS1s. I haven't had any problems yet. I'd also be more worried about overheating in extended high RPM, high current situations than in low RPM.
And no, the alternator is actually putting out 14V. I have a gauge mounted at the fuel pump and it stays at 14V now no matter what RPMs I'm at.
I'd feel better frying an alternator than leaning out.
And no, the alternator is actually putting out 14V. I have a gauge mounted at the fuel pump and it stays at 14V now no matter what RPMs I'm at.
I'd feel better frying an alternator than leaning out.
#19
Teching In
Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Apr 2006
Posts: 19
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
It would be regulated at 12.5V at 2000 and up.
Given that resistance would be the same in both 12.5 and 14V circuits, more amperage can be generated by the higher voltage system. I'm not saying that having an alternator produce 12.5V is inadequate, but at WOT, there is more current drawn than at 2000 RPMs, therefore having more available current is necessary for keeping your fuel pump pumping in high draw situations.
Given that resistance would be the same in both 12.5 and 14V circuits, more amperage can be generated by the higher voltage system. I'm not saying that having an alternator produce 12.5V is inadequate, but at WOT, there is more current drawn than at 2000 RPMs, therefore having more available current is necessary for keeping your fuel pump pumping in high draw situations.
Last edited by Sizzlenut; 11-25-2008 at 08:34 PM.
#20
TECH Fanatic
iTrader: (13)
Put a volt gauge on it and see how it performs when you rev it up. The charging system will put out 14 volts off idle. The system is setup to only put out enough at idle to keep 12.5 in order for the alternator to not over heat.
Higher voltage equals less amperage required
Higher voltage equals less amperage required