Serious MAP tuning help needed...
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I should be firing my car tomorrow..I'm good with tuning timing curves & what not...I've been reading for hours & searching the web on tuning MAP for advanced timing & all that & I'm still lost & clueless...any help would be greatly appreciated...& since the MAP adds timing should I leave my timing where I would usually set it @ without a map or have it lower than usual since the MAP will be set to add timing? & graph posted would be great
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its been a while since i messed with the map graph, but i'll try and add something-i used the map because of boost
i didnt use the RPM graph, left it zero'ed out-when you turn the ign on, engine off, the red line on the graph will go to 14.7, which is one atmosphere, which is the pressure all arounf you, always there, you just dont feel it-once you fire the engine, the engine vacume will pull against the 14.7 fig, the red line will go to the left (aprx 2" of vacume will pull the map down one #, if 14" of vacume, you will see the 14.7 map drop to aprx 7 on the graph) so what ever you want your idle timing to be, set it at that point
as you drive easy, vacume will raise, sometimes pulling the red mark further to the left, you could raise the timing more as in cruise-when you hammer it, vacume will drop, the red mark will return to the right and should go to 14.7 if all the vacume is gone, wide open throttle-if running boost, 2 bar map lets say, scale will read to 30, and red mark will go beyond 14.7 (14.7 + boost, say 10#'s, would be 24.7, so you would have your timing sliding lower
i use the 3 dials on large, drive around and see what the #'s are
i fire it with aprx 30 degs, then adjust the timing points based on the map readings-hope this hasnt confused you
i didnt use the RPM graph, left it zero'ed out-when you turn the ign on, engine off, the red line on the graph will go to 14.7, which is one atmosphere, which is the pressure all arounf you, always there, you just dont feel it-once you fire the engine, the engine vacume will pull against the 14.7 fig, the red line will go to the left (aprx 2" of vacume will pull the map down one #, if 14" of vacume, you will see the 14.7 map drop to aprx 7 on the graph) so what ever you want your idle timing to be, set it at that point
as you drive easy, vacume will raise, sometimes pulling the red mark further to the left, you could raise the timing more as in cruise-when you hammer it, vacume will drop, the red mark will return to the right and should go to 14.7 if all the vacume is gone, wide open throttle-if running boost, 2 bar map lets say, scale will read to 30, and red mark will go beyond 14.7 (14.7 + boost, say 10#'s, would be 24.7, so you would have your timing sliding lower
i use the 3 dials on large, drive around and see what the #'s are
i fire it with aprx 30 degs, then adjust the timing points based on the map readings-hope this hasnt confused you
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I'm gonna be running my timing around 32 or 34 so if I add timing with the map is it gonna help that much? I'm also running nitrous @ the track will it have any affect on that with pulling timing & all that? Also is it really worth it because it's gonna cost me 70 bucks for a brand new 1 is it really a necessity or something that helps THAT much? If it's worth it I'll try it if not I wont
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I'm gonna be running my timing around 32 or 34 so if I add timing with the map is it gonna help that much? I'm also running nitrous @ the track will it have any affect on that with pulling timing & all that? Also is it really worth it because it's gonna cost me 70 bucks for a brand new 1 is it really a necessity or something that helps THAT much? If it's worth it I'll try it if not I wont
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so your saying you can run 50+ degrees of timing cruising around & not hurt the engine? I see your normal degrees is at 30+ degrees & your MAP is over 10 so when your cruising around it's adding that 10+ degrees? I didn't know you could run that much degrees