Outlaw666

iTrader: (3)

schematics please!

Outlaw666

iTrader: (3)

Anyone?

butler

you will have to get a good regulator from aeromotive that is for efi to carb fuel pressure with a return on it. I pulled most of wiring out except for the ignition to msd box. I kept all the light functions.

Outlaw666

iTrader: (3)

Okay thanks man!
Looks like I can keep the bcm intact i n order to use the windows, headlights etc. and just yank the pcm and main harness.

Z28/2002

iTrader: (27)

You'll need the connector from the alternator. You can trash the engine harness and PCM. A lot of the wires going into the two fuse boxes under the hood can be removed as well.

I didn't touch any of the main body harness and left the body control module, all my power functions still work even the keyless entry

Outlaw666

iTrader: (3)

After reading through smkn ta's old race wiring thread I may just yank everything and do a harness from scratch. That way I can lose weight and clean everything up real good. Only thing is figuring out thehow I'm going to do the damn windows lol.

ATwelveSec02Z28

iTrader: (17)

I trashed everything, and re wired it completely.

Outlaw666

iTrader: (3)

thats the plan, after searching around some more it definitely will be easier to do it that way. the only factory tie-ins are the external lighting system and the window motors that are ran from a box that I can just do a bit of rewiring on...I started pulling the entire harness out last night and holy crap there is a lot of wires running through these cars! Oh well, all is fair in the pursuit of speed!


do you have pics of how you did yours? Im taking some pointers from the pics I have seen while searching around in the drag section .

butler

I believe it takes a 20 ohm resistor to make the alternator work correctly.

Outlaw666

iTrader: (3)

Not using a factory one
Relocated due to my turbo...looking to run the aei setup with a delco alt.

Z28/1999

iTrader: (2)

Picture would be great! I'm currently in the same boat

blk96406

iTrader: (18)

What is the resistor needed??? I was under the assumption I could just hook up a keyed 12 volt source to the plug. Any info or a link would be greatly appreciated.

Sandmann120

iTrader: (1)

Subscribed.

Z28/2002

iTrader: (27)

Mine has been like this for almost five years and haven't had an issue

butler

factory pcm creates the reisistance if you are using it. If not I was under the impression it would burn the alt. up.

GITSUM95Z

iTrader: (1)

Im in the same boat here. My 95 is gen 2 383 carbureted. I kept the factory headlight wiring, also everything from the fuse box inside. I cut everything from the fuse block outside on driver fender out. Now there is nothing, no power haha. So I hope im thinking correct here, can I just run like a 2 gauge power wire inside from the battery and the take all power source for the fuse box inside (dash) to a distribution terminal to make everything work?

blk96406

iTrader: (18)

Here is a link to the schematics I used when I "thinnned out" my harness, #'s 31 and 34 to be exact. Everything works still except the auto hatch release and the power windows, but just because I havent finished it up yet. Ill post up the link for the windows below.

http://shbox.com/1/schematics_wiring.html

Here is how I wired my plug on my alt(which doesnt say anything about a resistor being needed, thats why I asked):
https://ls1tech.com/forums/attachmen...-cs144-alt.jpg

This is how I wired up the battery:
https://ls1tech.com/forums/attachmen...1233334884.jpg

and this is the way to get your windows to work:https://ls1tech.com/forums/attachmen...-309310954.jpg

I had my Lq4/th400 in and running (off of my red top), just didnt have time/money to finish everything up last summer. I am HOPEFULLY gonna have it put back together and out before I go back to work in late April, at least that is what Im really pushing for.......

Outlaw666

iTrader: (3)

its hard to tell what wire goes where on the window one lol...but the brown gets wired hot if Im looking at that correctly?

blk96406

iTrader: (18)

I believe so. Im in NC on vacation and the car is in WI, so I just cant walk out and take a quick look. Here are a couple more links that I found, but cant seem to find the exact link that I got that pic from........

https://ls1tech.com/forums/drag-raci...k-w-o-bcm.html


https://ls1tech.com/forums/drag-raci...itch-deit.html

GITSUM95Z

iTrader: (1)

Thanks for the info! I got lucky, the main power wires that feed the fuse block inside was not cut from the harness and I was able to hook everything back up. I did have to trace the wires for the fog lamps to work, very thin white & purple (seperate wires) I connected them together and they now stay on with the stock fog lamp switch. Just fyi to anyone doing the same thing.
Thanks again!