SlowWrangler

I posted the below in the conversation area and was suggested I post here. So:

I am trying to find out if a 5.3 is really that much better than a vortec 350 for a vehicle that is more concerned with low to mid range torque and is also carbed. I have seen the comparison's of the 5.3 vs the 350, but those are comparisons are generally fuel injected. Fuel injected, the ls type engine should be better as the heads were designed around fuel injector angle (Chevy LS1/LS6 V-8s book by Handzel). However, I am leaning toward a carb (I have my own reasons). So in that light does the Gen III engine really have that much of an advantage? The heads for the Vortec 350 and the LS were both designed around the same era with the Vortec 350 having incredible intake velocity at .3 and .4 lift. Granted the LS has better ignition management with the DIS, but if I am not going to turn more than 5500RPM, is that an advantage? Both have roller cams but the LS does have roller rockers.

The reason I ask it that I am going to swap one of these into my Wrangler this summer. The 350 has the advantage of being able to find useable long tube headers and oilpans. The cost is much cheaper for the 350 (oil pan, headers, intake, accessories). However, if the 5.3 is THAT much better based on some technology I am overlooking, I am game.

One last item, if I do go with the 5.3 and run the MSD ignition controller for the carb conversion, is there a way to diagnose the sensors? How do you know if the camshaft sensor/crankshaft sensor/MAP sensor is going out or if the controller is having issues

I have just started learning the Chevy lingo as I have been a long time Ford guy with many Mustangs, Thunderbirds, and even Merkurs in my past. But for the Wrangler, the Chevy engine swap is by far the easiest.

Thanks!!!

ZONES89RS

iTrader: (25)

The 350 has better low end torque. Cut and dry. The 5.3 makes more power. This is stock for stock. I personally hate distributors since going to the LS, so I will never run a old SBC ever again. Nothing wrong with a SBC if you don't mind. I enjoy higher flowing stock heads, not needing rockers or having to machine the head for higher lift cams, ect ect. So, just keep researching and being open to replys and you will come up with a answer. A 6.0 would out torque the 5.7 of course, but them 5.3 are cheaper. A 4.8 makes more HP than a stock vortec 5.7 as well actually. They in the tq department though.

The stunningman

iTrader: (47)

5.3 is the better engine. Relatively maintenance free, Stay sealed up better, Better gas mileage and easier to find lo mileage with no need to visit a machine shop. I was on the fence same as you when I got this jeep in part trade. I used camaro manifolds. I used Trans dapt SBC swap mounts that were made for SBC and made them LS1 bolt pattern. I used a NV3500 from a 2002 S10 4x4 and found a 94 S10 transfer case brought it home and split the case using the S10 front half and the Jeep rear and keeping the thick S10 chain and gears. Very easy swap IMO.

P.S. One of the best days of my life was getting rid of the damn thing. It had great power but they drive like a dump truck regardless of what you do IMO.

speedtigger

iTrader: (16)

I would never trade my LS motor for an old school small block for any application. Just so much better to work on and notably more reliable and durable.

SlowWrangler

I have read about the Vortec's and the limited valve lift. It seems the GM Engineers were not as concerned about the high lift as they made the head's intake velocity so high at lower level lifts. It seems people have come up with an easy work around in using LS valvesprings and special keepers as long as the lift is not too high. My biggest concern are the press in studs for the 350 vortec. I have not found a definitive answer on how much lift/ls spring pressure/rpm it take to yank one out. Funny, I can't remember if the 5.3's have this issue???

SlowWrangler

I know what you mean about the ride... My family loves the jeep in the summer, so I would be public enemy #1 if I got rid of it! Back when I was in high school (late 80's/early 90's), I had a 76 Firebird Formula. That car would be great with a 6.0 nowadays vice the jeep... I beat the crap out of it and looking back never deserved to buy it...

I would plan on doing much the same as you except using LS swap mounts from Advance Adapters and a 700R4. I already have the tranny and 231C transfer case (that I will split the same as you did). Did you use 5.3 truck oil pan? I have heard they sit way low unless you have a large body lift. I only have a 1" body lift and do not want to go higher. Also, can you tell me more about the exhaust manifolds? How close were they to the steering linkage/front driveshaft? Also, any idea how the manifolds flow in comparison to shorty headers?

Thanks!

ZONES89RS

iTrader: (25)

No, studs on a 5.3 are screw in. You probably knew?

SlowWrangler

I missed it in my reading. I honestly thought they were pressed in studs. I am amazed in that it probably cost GM an extra $0.05 per engine to do that job. My father was an engineer at DANA (axles) and would tell me how the car company "heads" would cut pennies that would be major headaches later on.

Still learning GM. I know much about the Ford 5.0, 351W, 429&460, and the 2.3Turbo. Still digesting GM info.

ZONES89RS

iTrader: (25)

The studs screw into the head and hold the rocker trunion in. Non adjustable like a ford.

The stunningman

iTrader: (47)

The camaro manifolds I used were the 1998 (they can be cut and welded. The cleared everywhere I just extended them with a mandrel bend and added a 2 1/2" collector ring. I had no problems with the oil pan clearance but the jeep was lifted. No idea how much but it had "TSL's on it when I got it I quickly discarded in favor of the 32" radials you see in the picture. I think it had a body lift too. prob 2 or 3". Get a S10 case the same year as your Jeep the older cases are different. They much the same internals per year.

When you install the engine, position it to get the best fitment matching the driveshafts. I did not cut or change driveshafts in my swap. I do remember notching the Transfer case belly pan for clearance. If oil pan clearance is close just get the H3 pan from jegs it will give you a lil more room and only costs $155 for the whole kit.