I was going to just make a adjustable setup with rod ends. Sweet and simple. I would be able to adjust them by spinning the whole bar and then lock it in.

 

Meh. No love for my blazer build ehh? Its still says s10 before it. I got the gas tank dropped and driveshaft in this weekend. Gotta put my new pump and lines in. Ive had a big handicap with 6 broken vertebrae, I started 3-10-13, so its been a year. Injury was 5-15-13, so it came to a screeching hault really until this past month. All of you suck because you have driven yours lol

 

Think me and Stewart are the only ones that have driven ours. Not sure. I would do a blazer if they didn't weigh more. May still do one with a auto.

 

Are you thinking about using a rod end sized so you can just tap threads into the bar ID and using a jam nut, left hand threads on one end, right hand on the other? That's what Im looking at doing, but I want to build the brackets with 4 or so holes at both ends, so I can move the bars angle in relationship to the car, to find the ideal angle to load the tires on launch. It just gives more adjustability to the suspension, kinda like a half of an adjustable four link.

 

Thinking about making 2-3 holes for adjustment in the front. But I was going to make use of a right and left hand thread setup and just weld one nut into the end of the bars and then another for a jam nut. Nothing fancy but get the job done.

 

Yep, that's a winner too. Im just in a position where I have to farm out the welding on mine. My wifes cousins husband is a great welder, but he is hard to tie down, so any thing I can do to eliminate a weld the better off I will be. Im going to pull up the Summit site and see what all the materials are going to run me. They sell tubing , gussets, rod ends etc, etc now. If you want, I will let you know what I come up with, if you don't have it already.

 

K. The local community hardware has allot that I need.

 

I looked into building some. the cost of parts and the time to do a home made setup was worse than just getting some from calvert that are better quality, powder coated and proven.

 

It's not for everyone. I don't blame you. I at one point would buy more parts than I would fab.

 

I came up with about 125 bucks, but that's with the threaded inserts for the end links. They are 10 bucks a pop, 2 LH thread and 2 RH. I still have to come up with some scrap laying around to finish out the mounts. That price includes 2 pairs of ladder bar mounts with 6 holes in each for adjustability. Id cut them in half and set it up with 3 holes at the rear and front to adjust instant center. That's 1" bars and 1/2-20 bolts and rod ends. Def cheaper than buying new Calverts for 335 bucks or Slide-a-links for 370. I have a couple leads on used slide-a-links but no one is in a hurry to take them off their car and have yet to quote me a price.

 

Nice. Once I get out to find parts I will post what I have invested. I'm not looking to get a center perfect as much as I am to get the pinion angle locked on and eliminate wheel hop.

 

Get double your parts list and let me know the cost LOL. I can assemble what I need and get it welded either by a friend or take it to a shop at the same time I get my exhaust chopped and enlarged.

 

Looks like I might be getting a used set the slide-a-links from a guy on another site I spend some time on. If I still had my little wire welder Id build some, but buying a welder would take all my material funds up, LOL. Ive been looking at the caltrac pics I have and they are much simpler than the sliders. Not a hard project at all. I just hate to farm stuff out on my car projects, and getting the in law to weld them requires too many hoops to jump through, LOL
I cant wait to see the bars you are going to make, Zane. Pic heavy, if you don't mind.

 

I'll do my best, by be damned if I don't get carried away with getting the task at hand done ASAP some times and forgetting to snap some shots.

 

Ferocious sounding little beast. I am surprised the torque curve looks the way it does. I would have guessed a 5000+ torque peak for that combo. What valve springs. They look like they are doing the job.

 

Some cheap *** single valve spring,lock,retainer kit from Alex parts off eBay. They aren't even conical. Se spring holding the 5.3 down with the 2216 cam to 7200.

I was surprised the torque is where it's at. The butt dyno was surprised how well it works. Guess it is a proven little cam for a cheap price honestly.

 

Have half of the bars done. One of each looks like this:



Got to finish mounts and then take some measurements for the rear and all that other cutting and welding left. My little brother is using the garage so I was limited big time on what I could do.

But, the trailer towed his bird like a boss. Still had to put the back of the truck on ramps to keep the nose from hitting.

 

Here ya go boys, gorilla welds and all:







They work in the street, headed to the track now. Lol

 

I am surprised you didn't use box steel instead of 2 single plates. And your retarded gorilla *** better get some damn video!!

 

Lol, I will. Was going to use some square tuning for the mounting locations but wanted to avoid spacers ect.