Q&A session here.....
Q&A session here..... I have a couple questions to ask before I jump into what all I am doing and then asking for recommendations for cam and carb..
bit of info: 91 excab S10, TH400 (no transbrake at this time), 4500 nitrous converter, 4.30 gears, 29.5/11.5-15 rear tires. This truck will ONLY be raced 1/8th mile.
1). I got ahold of a 6.0 IV iron block yesterday with 0821 heads. Which engine is this actually designated as? It has the flat lifter valley plate with a small notch at the back on one side, and the oil pressure sensor is mounted in the plate.
2). Can I buy a billet flat plate to cover the oil sensor hole and the 8 risers under the plate and it not bother anything? I have a muscle car swap pan I am going to install and the oil pressure sender for my race project is mounted above the oil filter.
3). This truck is strictly for drag racing so what cam do you guys recommend? I do plan to run nitrous and a Dominator intake and carb. I want something that is choppy idle and will run to 7000 rpm with over 600 lift.
i am going to install comp 3/8 hardened pushrods and trunion upgrade, and Brian Tooley .660 double springs.
4). Do I need to upgrade the rod bolts as well?
5). Which VVT delete kit do you guys recommend? I am going to install a new timing chain and gears so do I really need to go to a double? Any clearance issues I need to worry about doing that?
thanks to all who answer and please keep it civil.
i don't mind recommendations or other questions about the project.
bit of info: 91 excab S10, TH400 (no transbrake at this time), 4500 nitrous converter, 4.30 gears, 29.5/11.5-15 rear tires. This truck will ONLY be raced 1/8th mile.
1). I got ahold of a 6.0 IV iron block yesterday with 0821 heads. Which engine is this actually designated as? It has the flat lifter valley plate with a small notch at the back on one side, and the oil pressure sensor is mounted in the plate.
2). Can I buy a billet flat plate to cover the oil sensor hole and the 8 risers under the plate and it not bother anything? I have a muscle car swap pan I am going to install and the oil pressure sender for my race project is mounted above the oil filter.
3). This truck is strictly for drag racing so what cam do you guys recommend? I do plan to run nitrous and a Dominator intake and carb. I want something that is choppy idle and will run to 7000 rpm with over 600 lift.
i am going to install comp 3/8 hardened pushrods and trunion upgrade, and Brian Tooley .660 double springs.
4). Do I need to upgrade the rod bolts as well?
5). Which VVT delete kit do you guys recommend? I am going to install a new timing chain and gears so do I really need to go to a double? Any clearance issues I need to worry about doing that?
thanks to all who answer and please keep it civil.
i don't mind recommendations or other questions about the project.
Last edited by BigEd_72455; Dec 3, 2016 at 07:30 AM.
1). Thanks. I figured out which one it was a little while ago.
2). I am moving the sender because I already have a muscle car swap pan, and the sender for my digital gauge is right above the filter on the pan. And I am going carb.
3) I have a couple options for the camshaft selection.
2). I am moving the sender because I already have a muscle car swap pan, and the sender for my digital gauge is right above the filter on the pan. And I am going carb.
3) I have a couple options for the camshaft selection.
Only part of the pan that hangs below the crossmember on the S-10 is where the drain plug is. And that could be remedied with simply moving the plug to the back.
but that issue varies by which mounts are used.
but that issue varies by which mounts are used.
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3). This truck is strictly for drag racing so what cam do you guys recommend? I do plan to run nitrous and a Dominator intake and carb. I want something that is choppy idle and will run to 7000 rpm with over 600 lift.
i am going to install comp 3/8 hardened pushrods and trunion upgrade, and Brian Tooley .660 double springs.
i am going to install comp 3/8 hardened pushrods and trunion upgrade, and Brian Tooley .660 double springs.
Many people including myself have exceeded 7000 RPM on a regular basis with gen 4 engines with great reliability.
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Verdad Gallardo Dropped the block crank and heads off at the machine shop a little bit ago. One of the guys noticed right off that 2 of the seats were loose and 1 guide had dropped.
They told me the valve job by itself was over $200 plus cleaning them was between 40 and 70.
So I figure getting them fixed will cost way more than what I can just buy another set of heads for.
Hopefully the crank can be polished and not have to be turned. Block is only going to get cleaned up. And I have the rods and pistons here still.
Right now for just the block and crank (polishing only) I am looking at $110+ whatever the tax is.
The heads are what's going to be the brain stumper. Do I spend the money to get those done or just buy another set is what becomes the dilemma.
They told me the valve job by itself was over $200 plus cleaning them was between 40 and 70.
So I figure getting them fixed will cost way more than what I can just buy another set of heads for.
Hopefully the crank can be polished and not have to be turned. Block is only going to get cleaned up. And I have the rods and pistons here still.
Right now for just the block and crank (polishing only) I am looking at $110+ whatever the tax is.
The heads are what's going to be the brain stumper. Do I spend the money to get those done or just buy another set is what becomes the dilemma.
They said 3 angle valve job, deck the heads, and clean them, not counting the seats and guide(s) was already at $310-325. Now, I get these are good heads to have because of the big valves and rectangle ports, but I just can't afford to go all whole hog with them and spend $1000+. I just don't have the money available even with paying payments to pay them off before getting them, I am spending $20 in gas to and from just to make the payment. I'll know more about what's happening with them in a week to 2 weeks..
Plus, I am more concerned with the block than the heads right now. If all else fails I can just go get a pair of 862's or 317's and run them until I decide what to do with the 0821's.
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From: Harford Co. Maryland
New stock LS3/L92 heads will be $1000+
Used LS3/L92 heads will need to be looked over/fixed/ETC before use anyway IMO....
fix yours
Used LS3/L92 heads will need to be looked over/fixed/ETC before use anyway IMO....
fix yours
Last edited by Doug G; Dec 5, 2016 at 02:53 PM.
You just said you were thinking about running a set of 317s then possibly going back to the square ports. You would have to get DIFFERENT rockers for the heads and a DIFFERENT intake because of the cathedral/square port difference. Good luck with the build
I Know the difference in square port vs rectangle port vs cathedral port.
But thank you for reminding me about the changes that would have to be made.
I would fix the heads, you might install new rod bolts, but I didn't. Doesn't mean that's right, but I have turned mine to 7500 ALOT. I would contact the cam grinder of choice for cam. The rectangle ports are more critical of cam choice. Talk to Trent about the cam, he knows a thing or 2. Also, speak with him on dominator. My LY6 didn't like one. Not saying it wont work, but didn't on my combo. the shift recovery sucked.