fast89stang

iTrader: (2)

Ok, those that follow me on facebook, know I got a little stupid 2 weekends ago at the track, pulled a stupid wheelie, broke oil pan, trans and bent caster camber plates. I thought that was it. Got a new 20143 moroso pan, pulled engine, installed pan. We looked for other damage, but not close enough. while installing the repaired trans, I notice one bolt didn't seem to get tight like the others. I checked it with a wrench, and just didn't feel right. I looked around the other side of block (this bolt was pretty much right over the starter) and I had a nice, pretty crack from ,the crank sensor area, but not onto that wall, stayed on rear wall of engine.pulled trans off, and you could see it on the rear of block too. Well, had a guy that teaches welding that said hes fixed several like mine. Took it over Saturday at 230. tig welded up. I had to remove rear main seal housing, cause the crack ran close the cover(followed seam). Got home, Ive reused these gaskets on the rear cover before, didn't think I had a spare and since this one was new last year, not worried. put it together. filled with oil, cranked up, sounds great. look under car and oil coming out at a steady drip. Its leaking right by oil filter adapter and first bolt in rear of pan on drivers side.checked all the obvious stuff all day sunday. Pulled trans back off motor, pulled flywheel. Was hoping to see more. You can tell its pressurized oil, it takes it a moment of crsnking before it starts to drip. but its a steady, constant drip. The bolts on the trans that broke were ondriver side of flywheel. The block broke on passenger. I'm afraid the blocks cracked over here too, wondering if you guys had any ides? We are pulling motor again tonight.

baronsmith98

iTrader: (2)

I assume you RTV'd the corners of the oil pan? Did you have good oil pressure? Barbell was in? It may have a hairline crack near one of the oil galleys where it goes to and from the oil filter

MY_2K_Z

iTrader: (1)

On the rear engine cover did you make sure to use the shorter bolts and not the slightly longer ones for the oil pan. If you mismatch them the bolts will bottom out before getting the rear cover fully tight.

jimmyp3353

iTrader: (3)

Did you re-align the rear cover properly, and use RTV on the area where the rear cover, and engine block meet the pan? If not, I'm guessing there's your problem. I used that Moroso pan on my last build and I couldn't for the life of me get the pan to not leak in that area. It would drip a drop like every couple days.

fast89stang

iTrader: (2)

Found the leak. Pulled flywheel and all while still in car, couldn't see it good, so we pulled it back out and hooked a pre luber to the front oil galley plug. Found a small hairline crack beside the rear cover, right in a corner near the oil pan. You cant even see it with your eye really, but that is where its coming from. I'm going to try one more time to repair this block. If this doesn't fix it, the 6.0 is going back in. Supposed to be going to get it tigged tonight.

Doug G

Good luck... I hope it works.

fast89stang

iTrader: (2)

I'm not counting on it working really. about to give up. Had I any idea that I would have damaged my block like this, it would have never happened. I figured oil pan at worst. It will have some pan savers on it along with travel limiters

jimmyp3353

iTrader: (3)

http://midwestchassis.com/products/9...ace-crash-bars

cheap insurance for next time

fast89stang

iTrader: (2)

shes done....... 6.2 cannot be fixed. We have the new engine going in this week/weekend.

Doug G

Sorry to hear............:taps:

baronsmith98

iTrader: (2)

You can use it to make a coffee table now lol