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Thanks, it's the same as the one's you have 28x10.5x15 C07 compound. I purchased Bogart Eliminators for my 01 car 15x10 and 17x7 and I'll be running M/T 275/60R15 drag radials. I have the fronts mounted now and boy do they look good on there but unfortunately the rear wheel is making contact with the front of the brake caliper so they'll have to be sent back..
Been to hot to work on the Hot Rod and we could really use some rain right now. Now's a good time to be out on the boat soaking up some sun and getting a fishing line wet.
Motion Raceworks Powerglide Operator Series Billet Shifter Front Exit 16-1600 ordered yesterday and thanks to DualQuadDave for a good deal on a set of 821's that I now have for safe keeping.
Used the old radiator to mock up for the transmission cooler. I used 1/8" thick 1" aluminum angle to make a bracket that attaches to the tabs on the radiator.
Grandson doing some wrenching today. He and I removed the center coinsole,the shifter, seats, seatbelts and carpet. Every nut and bolt was removed by him and grandpa couldn't be more proud.
Spent some time today figuring out how I want to mount the shifter. Had to massage the upper right hand corner of the plate some in order to get it to lay down flush. Need to order some larger rivets, drill some holes and paint everything up.
I'll probably notch the mounting tube in order to lower it about 3/8 of an inch before drilling for the through bolt. One mishap is that I also cannot get my 45° PTFE fitting on the AN fitting for the out on the transmission and will have to do some grinding on the scatter shield so I can finish the lines for the transmission and cooler. Engine and fuel system are just about wired up but I still have a ways to go before a tune file and start it up.
Transmission lines built/installed and all the wiring for the engine and fuel system is now completed. Gonna hook up HPT and pull the tune file tomorrow so I can get it over to Pat G. I still need to finish mounting the shifter, connecting the transmission and wire in the transbrake. Also need to determine driveshaft length but I'm inching ever so closer to initial start up. I have a long way to go in terms of making it look nice but I'm looking forward to hearing this thing come to life.
Needed a 45° 1/8" NPT fitting to get the angle I needed to connect my braided line to the oil pressure gauge. I may need to purchase a 45° union for the fuel pressure gauge but the 90° on the braided line just might fit. I'll be doing a temperature gauge in the final slot and decided to go mechanical on that too but will need to have one made with a longer capillary tube.
Getting around to installing the aftermarket tachometer and once again with LS1Tech coming to the rescue I learned that the No. 10 pin on the red connector which is a white wire is the tach signal wire. I also learned that this wire was also connected to the C105 connector which is on the passenger side wheel well. The C105 connector has two white wires and after checking for continuity I determined that it was the white wire closest to the engine so I removed a piece of green wire from the V6 harness and soldered it into this white and removed the ECU so I could run it into the cab of the vehicle.
I'll have to determine what wire on the radio connector is tied to the dimmer switch as I want to use this to control the brightness of the gauge or I may just run it to the dimmer switch itself where the three gauges on the triple pillar will be.
Still need to order a mechanical temperature gauge and when I'm done all the factory gauges will still work and I also found a good place to mount the high pressure isolator for the fuel pressure gauge. It's going to be a bracket mounted to where the clutch master cylinder reservoir would go for a manual car and after removing the brake booster, I found a good place to drill a hole to route the 4AN steel braided lines and the capillary tube for the gauge pod. Autometer said they didn't think mechanical gauges could be done on the triple pillar in an F-body car but I think it can be done.