LQ4/T56 into my 69 Camaro
11-15-2012, 06:53 PM
#1601
Weircc,
Damn nice looking RS. What gears and trans do you plan on running? Don't forget to start a build thread w/alot of pics.
Damn nice looking RS. What gears and trans do you plan on running? Don't forget to start a build thread w/alot of pics.
11-15-2012, 09:02 PM
#1602
On The Tree
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I'm ordering a complete t56 magnum kit from American power train its a direct bolt in no modifications needed its got a 3:73 post in it I think will fare well with 6 speed I have a build thread already but have only made like one post plan on getting some work done this weekend so I will show some updates don't wanna fill this awesome thread up with my junk
11-15-2012, 09:49 PM
#1603
I've seen one case of a broken terra arm, and my friends at Vengeance do the trunion upgrade. Of course I have yet to see first hand, since I am still on stock low mile rockers.
11-19-2012, 11:10 PM
#1604
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Check these out! I may just go with the Yella's when the time is right. A few advantages over stock, less friction at the valve tip, no need to upgrade the bearings and the shaft mounted assembly seems to add more stability to the valvetrain. Still non-adjustable though, so a quick check of the geometry is still needed. Not too bad in price, especially if you were to have to buy a set of stock rockers and an upgrade for the trunions. Sucks for me but hey I have thrown more money than that away, damn!
Link:
http://www.hinsonsupercars.com/p-924...stock-now.aspx
Link:
http://www.hinsonsupercars.com/p-924...stock-now.aspx
11-19-2012, 11:32 PM
#1605
Who says anything about throwing money away? People buy stocks, rentals, precious metals all in hopes of building wealth. The investment in your car is like gold except there is a certain satisfaction that comes with it, that can not be matched with passive investments.
11-20-2012, 03:11 AM
#1606
Who says anything about throwing money away? People buy stocks, rentals, precious metals all in hopes of building wealth. The investment in your car is like gold except there is a certain satisfaction that comes with it, that can not be matched with passive investments.
11-20-2012, 07:20 PM
#1608
People including myself, sometimes waste thousands of dollars on things or people and have nothing to show for it. You have something awesome to show for it and unlike a new car, yours is not depreciating. I had a little luck with my build. Now if I can just get a little luck with my women!
11-21-2012, 02:50 AM
#1610
LOL Too funny.
11-21-2012, 11:10 AM
#1611
Tony did you take a look at your rocker tip sweep? You have a bit more lift than me and even on mine I noticed the contact moves pretty far from the center of the valve tip at full lift. It can't be good for the valve guides and probably not noise either. A roller tip would help.
When I was researching the trunion upgrade I did see several reports of reduced valvetrain noise so perhaps that would help. It's less than a third the cost of those YT rockers you linked to.
Lunati has these, PN 85425LUN for non-offset applications, but I don't think they have offsets for the L92 heads. BTW most of the generic images I've seen for this part don't show the actual LS rocker so you don't see the adjustable pushrod cup.
When I was researching the trunion upgrade I did see several reports of reduced valvetrain noise so perhaps that would help. It's less than a third the cost of those YT rockers you linked to.
Lunati has these, PN 85425LUN for non-offset applications, but I don't think they have offsets for the L92 heads. BTW most of the generic images I've seen for this part don't show the actual LS rocker so you don't see the adjustable pushrod cup.
11-21-2012, 11:38 PM
#1612
Thanks Bandit I will more than likely go the route you went. I really like the quality and attention to details that Harland Sharpe put into their trunions. Comp Cams has a nice set as well. I did not pay much attention to the sweep as much as I did the preload on the lifters. When I tear into her I will see where the rocker is positioned during a complete cycle. At that point it will be a matter of sweep versus preload.
12-26-2012, 09:59 PM
#1613
I hope everyone had a Merry Christmas!!
I am actually updating this old thread! I have had an issue with my clutch master since day one and I am just now getting around to solving the problem. The big issue with the stock setup for me was banging through the gears and the clutch pedal sticking to the floor. 1st to 2nd wasn't all that bad. If I remained in the gas and tried to go to third under throttle the clutch pedal would not return to home. From what I have read, the issue with the stock setup is the bore diameter and restrictions in the line. I have also read that a simple "drill mod" should or would take care of the issue on a stock setup. Well I have/had a hybrid setup. Stock master cylinder with an aftermarket braided line. I also had a couple of adapters and fittings where there might have been some restrictions. To remedy this once and for all I decided to use a Wilwood clutch master and eliminate all but one fitting but retain my existing braided line. I did not pull the stock master apart but the word is it has a 3/4" bore. Since other people sell an upgraded master with a 7/8" bore that is what I decided to use.
Wilwood 7/8" bore master
[IMG]
[/IMG]
Mounting plate I turned on the lathe using a 4 jaw independent chuck. All holes and threads were cut on the lathe.
[IMG]
[/IMG]
Studs installed and a trial fit.
[IMG]
[/IMG]
Using the angle finder and stock setup, the relationship between the master and the firewall comes out to be 23*
[IMG]
[/IMG]
1/2" stainless turnbuckle cut to length and threaded on each end.
[IMG]
[/IMG]
Mount is tack welded to the base for some trial fitments.
[IMG]
[/IMG]
Everything seemed to line up correctly.
[IMG]
[/IMG]
Made a cardboard template and trasfered it over to some 1/8" x 1-1/2" steel to seal off the unwanted engine noises from inside of the cabin.
[IMG]
[/IMG]
23*
[IMG]
[/IMG]
painted
[IMG]
[/IMG]
Basically the finished product. I made the backing plate big enough to cover my lame attempt to use the stocker a couple of years ago. I had a rather large hole in the firewall that allowed fumes and noises in. This 1/4" plate will seal off this entire area. I had to grind out the backside to conform to the firewall if your wondering why it is thinner on this side above the bottom stud.
[IMG]
[/IMG]
I retained the Dodge reservoir due to Wilwoods enormous and ill fitting remote reservoirs. I had to move my line-lock up a little during the process.
[IMG]
[/IMG]
Not sure how well the new master will perform but I can report back that the pedal already feels 10x better. No creaking noises either like I had with the nylon bushed stocker. I used a 3/8" x 3/8" heims joint with the new setup. Locked the heims solid to the pedal unlike before where there had to be a little wiggle room to prevent binding. She is all bled out and in good working order. Tomorrow I will start on the next project. I have a set of 18" wheels I purchased but I am being forced to lower the car to prevent the 4wd appearance. More on that later. Hopefully I can update prior to the New Year, if not Happy New Year. Now get your asses back in the garage and post some updates!!! LS1Tech is dead in my list of subscriptions. I think FroJoe and Steve are the only two making any progress. Maybe you were waiting on Santa to bring you a new camera, who knows.
I am actually updating this old thread! I have had an issue with my clutch master since day one and I am just now getting around to solving the problem. The big issue with the stock setup for me was banging through the gears and the clutch pedal sticking to the floor. 1st to 2nd wasn't all that bad. If I remained in the gas and tried to go to third under throttle the clutch pedal would not return to home. From what I have read, the issue with the stock setup is the bore diameter and restrictions in the line. I have also read that a simple "drill mod" should or would take care of the issue on a stock setup. Well I have/had a hybrid setup. Stock master cylinder with an aftermarket braided line. I also had a couple of adapters and fittings where there might have been some restrictions. To remedy this once and for all I decided to use a Wilwood clutch master and eliminate all but one fitting but retain my existing braided line. I did not pull the stock master apart but the word is it has a 3/4" bore. Since other people sell an upgraded master with a 7/8" bore that is what I decided to use.
Wilwood 7/8" bore master
[IMG]
[/IMG] Mounting plate I turned on the lathe using a 4 jaw independent chuck. All holes and threads were cut on the lathe.
[IMG]
[/IMG]Studs installed and a trial fit.
[IMG]
[/IMG]Using the angle finder and stock setup, the relationship between the master and the firewall comes out to be 23*
[IMG]
[/IMG]1/2" stainless turnbuckle cut to length and threaded on each end.
[IMG]
[/IMG]Mount is tack welded to the base for some trial fitments.
[IMG]
[/IMG]Everything seemed to line up correctly.
[IMG]
[/IMG]Made a cardboard template and trasfered it over to some 1/8" x 1-1/2" steel to seal off the unwanted engine noises from inside of the cabin.
[IMG]
[/IMG]23*
[IMG]
[/IMG]painted
[IMG]
[/IMG]Basically the finished product. I made the backing plate big enough to cover my lame attempt to use the stocker a couple of years ago. I had a rather large hole in the firewall that allowed fumes and noises in. This 1/4" plate will seal off this entire area. I had to grind out the backside to conform to the firewall if your wondering why it is thinner on this side above the bottom stud.
[IMG]
[/IMG]I retained the Dodge reservoir due to Wilwoods enormous and ill fitting remote reservoirs. I had to move my line-lock up a little during the process.
[IMG]
[/IMG]Not sure how well the new master will perform but I can report back that the pedal already feels 10x better. No creaking noises either like I had with the nylon bushed stocker. I used a 3/8" x 3/8" heims joint with the new setup. Locked the heims solid to the pedal unlike before where there had to be a little wiggle room to prevent binding. She is all bled out and in good working order. Tomorrow I will start on the next project. I have a set of 18" wheels I purchased but I am being forced to lower the car to prevent the 4wd appearance. More on that later. Hopefully I can update prior to the New Year, if not Happy New Year. Now get your asses back in the garage and post some updates!!! LS1Tech is dead in my list of subscriptions. I think FroJoe and Steve are the only two making any progress. Maybe you were waiting on Santa to bring you a new camera, who knows.
Last edited by tsnow678; 12-26-2012 at 10:06 PM.
. Oh well, keep it up! 
12-27-2012, 12:31 PM
#1617
Thanks fellas!
The mount is more of a "fit and function" rather than pretty. I wish I had your talents FroJoe and the equipment you have at your disposal.
I have a question for anyone wanting to chime in. I recently purchased a set of "The Right Stuff" 2 inch drop spindles from a local gear head. They seem to have good reviews and will work for my application. The question: Do I mount the tie rod arm on the lower two holes to retain the steering geometry? If so what kind of hardware would be deemed acceptable? I am guessing I can use the existing hardware but that would leave me two bolts shy to mount the caliper bracket and dust shield. Thanks in advance for any thoughts on this. This is the first time I have ever used drop spindles and am sort of lost.
The mount is more of a "fit and function" rather than pretty. I wish I had your talents FroJoe and the equipment you have at your disposal.
I have a question for anyone wanting to chime in. I recently purchased a set of "The Right Stuff" 2 inch drop spindles from a local gear head. They seem to have good reviews and will work for my application. The question: Do I mount the tie rod arm on the lower two holes to retain the steering geometry? If so what kind of hardware would be deemed acceptable? I am guessing I can use the existing hardware but that would leave me two bolts shy to mount the caliper bracket and dust shield. Thanks in advance for any thoughts on this. This is the first time I have ever used drop spindles and am sort of lost.
12-27-2012, 12:42 PM
#1618
I have been digging around a bit more and WOW there sure is a lot of negative feedback on drop spindles in general. I guess when I did a little research on the brand I purchased not a lot of information popped up. But doing a search in general on the topic of drop spindles there are tons of no-no's with the first gen Camaros. Alright, question number 2: Do I opt for different springs, cut my new OEM's or continue forward with the drop spindles? What ever is going to happen will have to be this week or next as I have the front suspension pulled apart as we speak. I had lowered this car before by cutting a round out of the stock springs and didn't notice any negative side effects. I may not take as much out this time if cutting the spring is viable. What is the ratio of the lower control arm? When measuring to cut the springs, do you measure them at free length or compressed?
12-27-2012, 03:45 PM
#1619
I imagine you have spent some time over at pro-touring.com or lateral-g.net as they don't have a lot of good things to say about them. Drop spindles aren't necessarily a bad thing when done right..... I would ditch the Right Stuff spindles. Personally I wold not cut the coils unless your on an extreme budget, but first what exactly are you wanting suspension wise out of the car and what's your budget?
Last edited by Rocketrod; 12-27-2012 at 03:51 PM.
12-27-2012, 07:49 PM
#1620
I imagine you have spent some time over at pro-touring.com or lateral-g.net as they don't have a lot of good things to say about them. Drop spindles aren't necessarily a bad thing when done right..... I would ditch the Right Stuff spindles. Personally I wold not cut the coils unless your on an extreme budget, but first what exactly are you wanting suspension wise out of the car and what's your budget?