LS1 T56 - Mcleod Bellhousing (pn 8710) and Blockplate (pn 8711) QUESTION!
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LS1 T56 - Mcleod Bellhousing (pn 8710) and Blockplate (pn 8711) QUESTION!
Hi guys, as I have shown in my other thread here https://ls1tech.com/forums/conversio...l#post18830055
I am trying to mount my T56 to my 98 LS1. I am using the 8710 Mcleod BH and 8711 Block Plate. It looks like the stock BH bolts that were with the 4L60 are about a half inch too long, after using the block plate (about 1/4" thick), I think I still fall short 1/4".
Do I just use short bolts? Do I need some adapter plate? Is there something I am missing? Will all the components line up etc if I just mount it with shorter bolts or what do I need to look out for here as a first timer?
I am trying to mount my T56 to my 98 LS1. I am using the 8710 Mcleod BH and 8711 Block Plate. It looks like the stock BH bolts that were with the 4L60 are about a half inch too long, after using the block plate (about 1/4" thick), I think I still fall short 1/4".
Do I just use short bolts? Do I need some adapter plate? Is there something I am missing? Will all the components line up etc if I just mount it with shorter bolts or what do I need to look out for here as a first timer?
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I found this now, but can anyone confirm his procedures are correct and that I wont have issues, just use shorter bolts etc?
https://ls1tech.com/forums/manual-tr...fo-within.html
https://ls1tech.com/forums/manual-tr...fo-within.html
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Did you plan on checking the hsg for being "on center" w/ the crank?
If not, then there's a chance that the trans may be hard to shift.
Also, sweep the my face of the b/h to be sure it's parallel w/ the block and perpendicular w/ the c/l of the crank.
No instructions sucks.....
Here's a link to help w/ the above .
http://www.pro-touring.com/threads/5...sing-alignment
If not, then there's a chance that the trans may be hard to shift.
Also, sweep the my face of the b/h to be sure it's parallel w/ the block and perpendicular w/ the c/l of the crank.
No instructions sucks.....
Here's a link to help w/ the above .
http://www.pro-touring.com/threads/5...sing-alignment
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Did you plan on checking the hsg for being "on center" w/ the crank?
If not, then there's a chance that the trans may be hard to shift.
Also, sweep the my face of the b/h to be sure it's parallel w/ the block and perpendicular w/ the c/l of the crank.
No instructions sucks.....
Here's a link to help w/ the above .
http://www.pro-touring.com/threads/5...sing-alignment
If not, then there's a chance that the trans may be hard to shift.
Also, sweep the my face of the b/h to be sure it's parallel w/ the block and perpendicular w/ the c/l of the crank.
No instructions sucks.....
Here's a link to help w/ the above .
http://www.pro-touring.com/threads/5...sing-alignment
Also, someone mentioned in another thread that the QuickTime is .060 longer than the stock bellhousing and the Mcloed unit is .400 longer than a stock bellhousing. Does this mean I need to make some adjustments somewhere like shim the slave/TOB? or what will need to be done here?
Thanks!
#7
as mentioned you need to check the bell-housing center with the crankshaft. you will need to remove the front of the trans and bolt it to the bell-housing to check but you will need to use a dial indicator
https://ls1tech.com/forums/manual-tr...llhousing.html
look at post 3 ^ I noticed some people leave the bearing race in for a smooth accurate reading but you need to hold the bearing flat in its bore to get a good reading as it tries to slide back out.
also recheck your reading from scratch 3 times (complete resetup ) to make sure its accurate. each time fully torque the bellhousing to block with the block plate and the front of the trans. everything bolted down fully all bolts
and yes you will need to measure the depth of the bell-housing to clutch fingers and also measure the throwout bearing to the trans face to calculate the shim needed.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/manual-tr...need-shim.html
https://ls1tech.com/forums/manual-tr...llhousing.html
look at post 3 ^ I noticed some people leave the bearing race in for a smooth accurate reading but you need to hold the bearing flat in its bore to get a good reading as it tries to slide back out.
also recheck your reading from scratch 3 times (complete resetup ) to make sure its accurate. each time fully torque the bellhousing to block with the block plate and the front of the trans. everything bolted down fully all bolts
and yes you will need to measure the depth of the bell-housing to clutch fingers and also measure the throwout bearing to the trans face to calculate the shim needed.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/manual-tr...need-shim.html
Last edited by 89 formula350; 06-11-2015 at 10:43 PM. Reason: added links