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Whats up guys, first time poster but long time lurker here.
Finally gathered up the cajones to start a build thread/progress checklist for myself. I have had a 2004 v6 Mustang since high school back in 2011. I have dumped a decent amount of money and time into this car to get it to where i want it ascetically so i didn't want to sell and get a GT after my insurance finally dropped to reasonable rates. This left me with a few options: 4.6 2v, 4.6 3v, cobra swap, and lastly the sacrilegious ls swap for mustang fan boys. Obviously I'm not stupid because LS swaps are dollar for HP better than the other options.
This brings me to where I am today, I have been searching, reading and dreaming about this swap for the last year and a half. So this thread will basically a way for me to gather information I need/have for future reference and also to show you guys whats happening and get input.
Parts Needed (Not Complete):
- Stock LQ4 Long block (Driving tonight to pickup from Chicago - $500)
- Fbody T56 (Picked up 11/1/17 - $1200)
- Shifter (MGW - $240)
- Slave Cylinder & Clutch Master Cylinder w/ Lines (McLeod Setup and GM Slave - $570) - Fbody Accessories (or make truck accessories work) (F-Body Brackets and Damper - $120) - F Body Oil Pan Kit (Everything needed - $230)
- F-Body Power Steering Pump, Condenser, Water Pump ($140) - Intake (Not sure what route to go IE: Best bag for buck) (Ls6 Loaded Intake - $330) - Fuel (Need to figure out fuel supply - v6 pump not good enough?) (Walbro 255 - $40)
- Brake Booster (Will stock v6 Vacuum Booster work?) (Clears - Will Work) - AJE K Member with Mounts (Black Friday Deal for Swap Kit - $800) - AJE Universal Cross Member (Unsure if needed) (Part of Swap Kit)
- Cobra Driveshaft ($40)
- Wiring Harness (Have truck ECU) (Truck Harness from 00 Yukon DBC - $32) - HPTuners (Most affordable option) (HPTuners Used with 6 Credits - $320) - Ford 8.8 Rear End (99-04 8.8" w/ 3.73's - $250)
- F Body Gauge Cluster (Using Stock Gauges)
- GT 5 Speed Bezel - Corvette Regulator ($20 from a friend) - Swap Headers (Part of Swap Kit) - Radiator and Fans ($40)
- Ls7 clutch, PP, Flywheel (Used w/ 12k Miles - $180_
- EV1 Injector Clips
- MM Steering Shaft ($280) - LS7 Clutch Kit ($180 - Low Mile)
Total Cost: $5512 (To N/A)
Plan is to run the motor stock without a rebuild until i have the cars bugs worked out, then start gathering parts to rebuild the motor and throw some go fast goodies inside. The trans was rebuilt 200 miles ago, has a slight whine in 1st gear but that is all? It also has a viper spec input shaft so i assume that is good.
Questions: - Can I use my stock control arms with AJE K Member or worth the money for theirs? Yes I Can. - Is the v6 fuel pump sufficient or should i invest in a cobra pump? Good to start the car, need a 255 LPH. - Should i throw a cam in and rebuild the stock heads leaving the block alone for now? - Can i use a cobra drive shaft and switch the yoke or will it bolt up fine? - What is the best budget friendly intake for these motors? Going to use a LS6 - Keep truck injectors or buy the EV1 connectors and run those? Running LS6 Intake and Rails, still need EV1 Clips.
Ill be updating these as more and more issues/questions come up. Thanks Guys!
Here is said car:
EDIT (1/7/18): Making a list of all the things left to do to the car as they come up.
To Do List:
- Take Driveshaft to Napa or Oreileys and get a bastard u joint for t56 slip yoke and stock drive shaft. - Install 8.8" Rearend. - Drop tank add bulkhead to stock fuel hat and install Walbro 255 LPH pump. - Drill and tap passenger side block for alternator bracket (need 11/32 bit for M10x1.5 bolt). - Buy and install new spark plugs and wires.
- Attach trans and put all accessories on and layout the harness to make standalone. - Design fuel system - either run -6 AN to corvette regualtor or ditch the regulator and pick up a AEM FPR and Inline filter and use -8 AN. Either way it will be -6 AN return. - Tap oil pan for oil pressure gauge sender. - Tap passenger side head for temperature gauge sender. - Purchase AFR gauge and install into pod pillar and route wiring. - Get battery cables and grounding straps to rework power system to alternator, starter, and fuse block. - Purchase starter and install. - Take headers to fab shop to get v bands or ball and socket welded on. - Purchase gear oil and gasket for rear end - Install tie rods, ball joints, and sway bar end links - Install crash bar, foam support, and radiator air dams - Install foxbody upper radiator supports and also fabricate lower mounts for f-body radiator and fans - Fabricate power steering lines and also get MM pressure regulator - Wire fuel pump and radiator fans to relays - Remove all of the old fuel system from stock mustang stuff
- Figure out vacuum lines and how to hookup steam lines
Update 8/31/18:
Car is being taken apart after LSFest 2018, it will be now boosted on the stock block Lq4, and the tick t56.
In to watch this one, good luck with the build! Lots of pics! I know next to nothing about mustangs so cant help there.
LS6 intake is definitely going to be the best bang for the buck. More gains to be had with a FAST but LS6 is the best OEM intake and can be found relatively cheap.
If I was doing the swap I wouldn't touch cam and heads to start, enough work ahead anyway. When you rebuild engine I definitely would upgrade. Even doing cam and heads in car later wouldnt be that bad, should be tons of room in that engine bay. How many miles on longblock?
In to watch this one, good luck with the build! Lots of pics! I know next to nothing about mustangs so cant help there.
LS6 intake is definitely going to be the best bang for the buck. More gains to be had with a FAST but LS6 is the best OEM intake and can be found relatively cheap.
If I was doing the swap I wouldn't touch cam and heads to start, enough work ahead anyway. When you rebuild engine I definitely would upgrade. Even doing cam and heads in car later wouldnt be that bad, should be tons of room in that engine bay. How many miles on longblock?
Thanks, yeah i have seen a couple loaded ls6 intakes go for around 400-500. Block has 185k on it, but it was running and driving before it was totaled. I am driving up there tonight to pick it up and will be popping the heads off to look at cylinder wall conditions. Ill post some pictures of the mustang when i get back home to my personal computer. Progress will be slow as the fiance wants the basement finished soon, and well i cant afford to do both simultaneously and quick! So more than likely a few buck this month a few bucks next.
Plan is to get the car running and driving on the stock motor and trans, then go and find another block to start slowly building it to have a nice single turbo.
Living in the chicago area I'd like to know where you found a lq4 for $500!!!
You can use your stock A arms but if you have the K member I'd recommend going with their A arm's for the weight savings, it only shaves off a few pounds but the nose of these mustangs is heavy enough. Not a necessity so if your strapped for cash run your stockers. If you plan on ever switching to a coil over setup in the future hold off on the A Arms as they sell 2 different types, one for standard coil spring perch and one for coil overs.
You will need to upgrade the stock fuel pump you have now, you should also look at a baffled gas tank so you don't have starvation issues. The cobra pumps are twin pumps and wired a bit different but easy enough to convert. You could just drop in a fuel cell with a large walbro in tank or in line pump if your just keeping the LS N/A. If your looking at throwing some boost or nitrous at it later I'd say spend the coin on upgrading to twin svt focus/aviator/GT pumps with a BAP and you could be good for 600-900rwhp depending on the setup. Beware your fuel system is currently setup for returnless.
As for the driveshaft and rearend, you want to upgrade both. I don't remember what the driveshaft of the v6 was rated to but it's not near strong enough. I'd also recommend upgrading the 8.8, granted in stock form they can handle some abuse but the 28 spline axles and carrier are the first to go with 350+rwhp. A common upgrade is a 31 spline carrier from F150's/explorers and 31 spline axles. I had that setup in my 450+rwhp 99 mustang and it held up to some serious abuse (100+ launches on slicks from 6k rpm's). It eventually did fail and I upgraded to a eaton tru trak. Depending on what your doing with the car long term and it's uses you can go mild to wild to fit your goals.
Living in the chicago area I'd like to know where you found a lq4 for $500!!!
You can use your stock A arms but if you have the K member I'd recommend going with their A arm's for the weight savings, it only shaves off a few pounds but the nose of these mustangs is heavy enough. Not a necessity so if your strapped for cash run your stockers. If you plan on ever switching to a coil over setup in the future hold off on the A Arms as they sell 2 different types, one for standard coil spring perch and one for coil overs.
You will need to upgrade the stock fuel pump you have now, you should also look at a baffled gas tank so you don't have starvation issues. The cobra pumps are twin pumps and wired a bit different but easy enough to convert. You could just drop in a fuel cell with a large walbro in tank or in line pump if your just keeping the LS N/A. If your looking at throwing some boost or nitrous at it later I'd say spend the coin on upgrading to twin svt focus/aviator/GT pumps with a BAP and you could be good for 600-900rwhp depending on the setup. Beware your fuel system is currently setup for returnless.
As for the driveshaft and rearend, you want to upgrade both. I don't remember what the driveshaft of the v6 was rated to but it's not near strong enough. I'd also recommend upgrading the 8.8, granted in stock form they can handle some abuse but the 28 spline axles and carrier are the first to go with 350+rwhp. A common upgrade is a 31 spline carrier from F150's/explorers and 31 spline axles. I had that setup in my 450+rwhp 99 mustang and it held up to some serious abuse (100+ launches on slicks from 6k rpm's). It eventually did fail and I upgraded to a eaton tru trak. Depending on what your doing with the car long term and it's uses you can go mild to wild to fit your goals.
Lol it was a guy selling it along with a 4l80E and the transfer case, i talked him down to $500 for longblock alone. If i remember correctly it was in Chesterton Indiana, but damn near Chicago.
Eventually i would like to run coil overs so i may as well hold off until tax time for the a-arms!
Im only going stock for now, but one of my buddies is selling me a corvette regulator and a walbro 255 for $60 total! So i think that will solve the fuel delivery issue. Still have to order the fittings and lines to make this a return setup. Ill look into the 31 spline, thanks for the tip!
Yep! As stated in my first post i am going to be looking for a 8.8 from a GT, there was another swap on here where the guy used his stock GT driveshaft and all he had to do was swap the yoke so i may be good there for now.
Good news is that the car will be starting to get assembled and the engine yanked out sooner than expected.
Bad news is that i have to do this because i tried to play bumper tag with a F250 and lost.
bummer about the bumper tag, now you have the excuse to run something other than the v6 hood/bumper Cervini's and Harwood make nice 2.5 cowls. I always liked the 01 cobra bumpers over the 03/04's but those are damn near impossible to find nowadays. (I'm just a little biased)
Search some of the mustang boards for a aluminum driveshafts, they usually pop up from time to time for a good price. Much stronger than stock and will take some rotating mass off your driveline.
Lol not at all. I would have been thinking the same thing
Originally Posted by cap42
bummer about the bumper tag, now you have the excuse to run something other than the v6 hood/bumper Cervini's and Harwood make nice 2.5 cowls. I always liked the 01 cobra bumpers over the 03/04's but those are damn near impossible to find nowadays. (I'm just a little biased)
Search some of the mustang boards for a aluminum driveshafts, they usually pop up from time to time for a good price. Much stronger than stock and will take some rotating mass off your driveline.
I found a stock replacement GT hood in silver till I can score a deal like you did on a reputable brand cowl hood. Ordering one of the eBay preprinted cobra bumpers in the near future. Heard good things about them.
Yeah I've been trying to find a reasonably priced driveshaft. Not the end of the world if I don't find one soon. There is a long list of things still needed.
Some updates on the motor. I was turning the crank over by hand and noticed some noises going on in the heads. Opened it up, nothing, so I'm gonna take the heads and have them looked over and surfaced. The engine is filthy, I am at a point where I know I should just strip it down and do it right once. But I am eager to get it running now, and then pick up another block along the way and build that one.
Thoughts?
Ordered the following:
- F-Body Accessory brackets and damper
- F-Body Oil Pan Kit (Pan, Tube, Dipstick, Baffle)
- AJE Swap Kit (Crossmember, K Member, Mounts, Swap Headers, Spring Perches)
- Ls6 Loaded Intake.
Im going to start draining the fluids and starting to remove the mustang motor from the car tomorrow/sunday. Going to clean up the block and pistons and start painting that as well. Hope to have an update Sunday.
Man I wish I would have known you needed the fbody dipstick tube and dipstick. I have a brand new one I can’t use. I’m going to order one that’s flexible to clear my flipped truck manifolds
Man I wish I would have known you needed the fbody dipstick tube and dipstick. I have a brand new one I can’t use. I’m going to order one that’s flexible to clear my flipped truck manifolds
Figures, oh well hah. What are you doing about brakes? Are you going to go manual brakes or are you going to convert to hydro?
11-03-2017, 08:40 AM
New Edge Mustang - Turbo LQ4/T56 
Cervini's and Harwood make nice 2.5 cowls. I always liked the 01 cobra bumpers over the 03/04's but those are damn near impossible to find nowadays. (I'm just a little biased)
