john 67

clearence was approx 1 1/4" to 1 1/2" . not enough to get the stock push connect lines in . even had some lines made with push connects and short bends on them but they didnt work out, i coppied what ravn455 did on his car with the flare fitting brazed onto the 4l80 fitting, then just made my own off the flare fitting , JOHN

rpol78

iTrader: (2)

I just checked the tranny and it has regular flare fittings on it so maybe there's hope.

rpol78

iTrader: (2)

I've been looking around for an elbow to work with the flare fitting. Does anyone know where I can get an elbow with a male flare on one end and a female on the other end?

John, how tight were they able to bend the tubing. If you had the flare fittings on the transmission do you think it would have worked?

john 67

you wont find that fitting .a female flare fitting will only work with a tube nut and tubing that is flared. the tube nut tightens the flared tubing to make the seal .I had inline tube make me some short bends on some tubing being that i couldnt make them as short on my bender- that was for the push connect type connection which i did not use.you can call them to see how short of a bend they can put on a piece of tubing with a flare nut on it, or do what me and some others have done, braze a flare fitting at 90 degres onto the trans fittings . if you do that make sure the fittings are TIGHT on the trans before you mark the direction of the other fitting to be brazed on.and mark the front and rear fittings as well , on my trans they are different. JOHN

Ted , looking at your trans it seems that the upper fitting will be very difficult to get to especially when the exhaust is in place. I just had to fix a leak by the lower fitting and it was extremley difficult to get to. maybe an acess panel on the trans tunnel? any pics of your car?

rpol78

iTrader: (2)

I haven't taken any pics yet. I've mostly been collecting parts. At this point I've got more in parts than the Chevelle cost. I'm out of garage space so I've got the Chevelle in a storage building. Over the holidays I'll go down and take some shots. The car is nothing special, just a plain jane Malibu 283/PG with power steering. It's in pretty fair shape with rust under the rear window, around the wheel well on the quarters, and rust on the lower part of the RH fender. I'm going to cut the boxing pieces off of an El Camino frame that's down where the car is. I just unloaded the L99 and 4L80 out of the back of the truck this morning.

I'll get some pics and start a string on the build. Given my track record my builds seem to take a long time. My last one was my numbers matching '58 vette. I knew I wasn't going to get it done in time for the Nationals so I ending up having it professionally restored. That got pretty expensive.

rpol78

iTrader: (2)

John, I finally took a couple of shots of the engine and transmission. They're posted here https://ls1tech.com/forums/conversio...-chevelle.html

rpol78

iTrader: (2)

John, how much clearance did you end up having between the oil pan and the tie rod ends?

I like the JZ Motorworks pan but it's 1" deeper at the front. In looking at both yours and Kevin's builds it looks like there should be clearance with the cross member but the tie rods concerns me. I'd like to keep the engine low to help prevent having tunnel issues with the 4l80E.

john 67

I have about 1/4" clearance at the tie rods where they pass the corner of the oil pan. I believe the only other pan that has more clearence is the Canton pan . JOHN

kevin 67/6.0

mine also has about 1/4 inch of clearance.

rpol78

iTrader: (2)

John/Kevin,

I know the position of the engine is different in your cars. A couple of questions how much do the tie rods overlap the pan front to back and side to side? I assume Kevin's front to back is going to overlap more since his engine is sitting further forward.

Secondly, I have the original Camaro exhaust manifolds on my L99 and they dump straight down at the very back of the engine. I'm wondering if they'll work or I'll need to go to headers also. Just looking at what's in the way on your cars do you think that would work? Just think of it going straight down right around the back exhaust port on both sides. I'll post some images/measurement when I get home.

Thanks again guys, Ted

rpol78

iTrader: (2)

John,

What were you not happy with? I'm not familiar with either of these and where they dump. I assume you were trying for a factory look to the conversion.

Ted

john 67

Each set had their own issues mainly they hit the chassis where they turn down by the flange, I belive the truck manifold hit on the drivers side and the f body was close on the pass side . JOHN

john 67

Not much to update just getting the heater hoses connected , wiring completed , installed a steam fitting in the upper rad, hose . mounted dryer inside the fender

dryer mounted



dryer on inside of fender



hose routing

kevin 67/6.0

john how well did your wires work with you headers you also have hookers dont you. i have to get a set that wont get into the headers

john 67

I used these wires ,they were ordered from street and performance as well as the headers,JOHN

kevin 67/6.0

thanks john

john 67

Quick update , completed the a c lines which were a major pain to connect to the evaporator . installed radio which was another pain , completed heater hoses and found good fitting radiator hoses . Will be ordering rims and tires soon , will do some mock ups with some different rims and tires to get that dailed in. JOHN

john 67

Thinking of these rims

kevin 67/6.0

i have been wondering if i can get a radio in that small little space i bet it was tight the heater controls being in the way is my consern.

john 67