It's cool man. I have a pink S13 as well...

Soon to be LS1 powered...

 

^ What kind of pink is that? Looks very close to mine.

lol. I was actually going for the heart-shaped exhaust tip... But that's cool too.

 

Coming along very nicely!

 

Haha. So much for being done by March for the drift event

Looking great, though! Glad you're taking your time and doing it right. I just wonder how long that white engine bay will stay clean..lol

 

Now that I'm finishing up with paint, I decided to make a list of paint suggestions for people thinking of doing this themselves based on my own paint screwups.

1. Learn to use spray gun before painting car. Yeah, I didn't know what I was doing when I first started and had the pressure set too low. So the primer was sort of spattering on the car, which made a lot of orange peel. I turned the pressure way up later on, and the paint went on nice and flat because it was atomizing better.

2. Find a paint booth. A dirty garage is no place to paint. Wetting the floor does little to nothing for keeping the dust down. Even with the floor totally wet, there's still a bunch of dirt and dust particles that got embedded in the clearcoat. I think even painting outside would have yielded better results than being in the garage.

3. Use good seam sealer (3M seems to work well). I used cheap seam sealer on certain parts of the car, and the paint didn't stick at all to the seam sealer. The seam sealer didn't stick to the car that well either. It was so bad in the engine bay that I decided to remove all of the seam sealer in there and repaint.

4. Do not let ANY clearcoat dry in your paint gun. EVER. I spent a lot of time taking apart the paint gun because I didn't clean it well after spraying the clear. The clearcoat dries really hard, and even paint thinner has a hard time removing it.

5. Apply clearcoat to everything in the paint booth at the same time. I put clearcoat on the engine bay and interior first. After that dried, I applied clearcoat to the outside of the car. The clearcoat dust settled on the engine bay and interior and stuck to it. Now, the paint in the engine bay and interior is flat-looking like primer, no more shine. ****. You could probably sand and polish it to get back the shine, but I'm not going to sand and polish engine bay and interior.

Anyway, hopefully this helps people. The paintjob didn't come out too awesome because of these mistakes, but definitely learned a lot. And it looks badass from a distance... lol. Maybe I'll have the whole car sandblasted next winter and paint it properly (if it's still in one unmangled piece by then... haha).

But enough with this paint BS. On to some serious work now... like getting it to drive and stuff.

Don't count me out yet. I took 3 days off from work over the next two weeks. This **** is getting done.

White engine bay is nice when your car breaks at night and you have no light.

 

Miro.. picked up your ebrake today.. ill bring it saturday or sunday... guy i picked it up from had silcamino rb20.. bad ***.. haha...

 

Why the interesting color choice? Damn nice work on everything by the way dude!

 

Think about that for a second. If he is going to drift this car, pink is a very nice way to make his car stand out and get a little more attention. Besides, it is just paint. He could always repaint and change it up if he decided.

 

Pink is fun... why not paint it something unique if you're going to do all the work yourself. Attention is nice too... especially from a tire sponsor or something. Also, girls like it.




Garage got a bit messy during the paint process.




Everything cleaned up except the floor, which is now pink.


Trying on Fabulous wheels on Eulises' car. Looks way more awesome in person.


My poor dirty LS1 finally uncovered after like 3 months.


Roasting some subframe bushings.


Engine stuff that I won't be needing.


Cleaned up a little.


Oil pan had some junk under the baffle, but doesn't look too bad. Also, the gasket wasn't riveted to the pan, which means the pan has been removed before. I'm not sure why that is since everything looks stock, but I guess it's not a big deal.




Ready for some new parts.


Tapped and plugged the stock F-body dipstick hole with 1/8" NPT plug.


ARP rod bolts installed.


IWIS timing chain, Melling 295 oil pump, GTO pickup tube and windage tray installed.


Yay alignment tools.


The service manual says to put a straight edge across the rear of the block/oil pan to measure flushness. That seemed sort of imprecise, so I bolted the bellhousing to the block and oil pan, then tightened the oil pan bolts. Should be perfectly aligned now.


ATI Super Damper... Very sexy. I like to touch it.


Damper installed and water pump back on with SLP 160-degree thermostat.

 

Keep it cumming. I will be doing the same thing in a bit.

 

Nice work miro one question about the driveline, maybe you can help. I have steel driveshaft from a ws6, when I get it shortened is there an adapter yolk to make it work or do I need the end piece off a 240 driveshaft? Thanks!

 

I don't know anyone that makes an adapter. But any driveshaft shop should be able to fabricate and balance it if you give them the WS6 driveshaft, 240 driveshaft, and length. 240 driveshafts are pretty easy to find.

 

Are you really running no power steering? You had your pump in a pic of you junk pile?

 

For the driveshaft I wouldn't mess with having 2 cutup and put back together. I had a steel driveshaft made from driveshaft shop. It shipped out the same day I ordered it. I just told them length, t56 trans, 240 rear and they did the rest. They told me they are doing a lot of them for ls1 240s now.

 

I'm using a Turn One pump in place of the stock one. No power steering would probably rip your fingers off on transitions... haha. But I've always been curious about trying it.

Nice. How much did they want for that?

 

x2 I have a local place but curious on price?

 

If memory serves me correctly it was like $355 shipped, but was made with 100% new parts. I think to get it in aluminum was about 100 more. It was a little pricey but after seeing what an improperly built driveshaft can do I decided it was a good investment. A friend of mine cracked 3 different transmission cases, which he assumed was due to his huge triple plate clutch. After replacing it with a much milder one it happened again. It ended up being that his custom driveshaft was not balanced correctly.

Also, I have a turn 1 pulley on mine. Wish I would have got the pump too while I was at it.

 

Did you do those rod bolts the "1 bolt at a time" method?

Please tell me you didnt! :O

 

Um, yes?

Let me know if there's something terribly wrong with this. Others have told me they did it the same way with no problems.

When you install rod bolts in a complete engine rebuild, don't you tighten them one at a time? Yeah, let me know what's up.

 

Nice project. I've always wanted a 240.

Not to hijack, but I have a question. I'm planning a Z31 swap (I have a 5.3 and a TKO). Do you know how the S13 firewall compares to the Z31? It looks like some serious hammering will do the job, but the z32 guys mention firewall relocation quite often with LSx swaps.