Proper Cleaning/Painting Techniques
12-24-2008, 08:21 PM
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Proper Cleaning/Painting Techniques When I get my 6.0. I want to give it a proper cleaning and coat of paint. What do you use to clean the motor, and when you paint, what do you tape off? I plan on doing the painting with the heads off. Any tips/info you can share is appreciated.
12-24-2008, 09:12 PM
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DEGREASER is your friend, main thing is to get ALL particles of dirt/oil/grease off the metal or it will just flake late during the heat cycles. A scraper is advisable if it is really caked on there, doubt it with such a new motor though. It is not a huge deal if you get water on the pistons, just don't let it sit there, i would advise an air hose to quickly spray it all off and dry it. Spray the insides of the cylinders with wd-40 and tape off the deck.
VHT 500 degree engine block spray paint will work really good. The back and front are no big deal, most people paint the timing cover any how. If you get some paint/overspray on the deck, not a huge deal just remove with goof off or mineral spirits and a rag.
The best way to paint it would be an engine stand you can get all angles evenly, just spray and spin. There is no real science to it just cover all areas evenly, try not to do it heavy. Let dry at least 24hrs before putting any heat to is the enamel can harden properly.
VHT 500 degree engine block spray paint will work really good. The back and front are no big deal, most people paint the timing cover any how. If you get some paint/overspray on the deck, not a huge deal just remove with goof off or mineral spirits and a rag.
The best way to paint it would be an engine stand you can get all angles evenly, just spray and spin. There is no real science to it just cover all areas evenly, try not to do it heavy. Let dry at least 24hrs before putting any heat to is the enamel can harden properly.
12-25-2008, 11:06 AM
#4
Before i paint anything i wipe it down with Laquer thinner and keep using new shop rags until they are clean. I used a brass wire wheel for my drill and knotted wire cup for my die grinder to remove all of the grease and paint from my 8.5" rear end. Then i used about a half gallon of laquer thinner to make sure all of the grease and debris was off. I painted it with rustoleum red since it wasnt going to see high heat.
Also laquer thinner will remove any overspray you may get on the deck or pistons. You can get it for like $11 a gallon from wal mart or any paint store. Xylene is another very strong cleaner but i always use laquer thinner after xylene because i dont trust paint adhering to a xylened base.
Also laquer thinner will remove any overspray you may get on the deck or pistons. You can get it for like $11 a gallon from wal mart or any paint store. Xylene is another very strong cleaner but i always use laquer thinner after xylene because i dont trust paint adhering to a xylened base.
Last edited by Shawn MacAnanny; 12-25-2008 at 11:15 AM.
12-25-2008, 07:00 PM
#6
I did all of this in my dining room too. TERRIBLE idea. I still have wires from the wheel sticking out of my drywall and grease everywhere. Paints been on for about 6 months now, it definately adhered.
If you have access to a large sandblaster that would be ideal. Mine got it clean enough using a wire wheel though. I think a 1974 8.5" rear end is the dirtiest thing i have ever had to prep for painting so you should be just fine.
If you have access to a large sandblaster that would be ideal. Mine got it clean enough using a wire wheel though. I think a 1974 8.5" rear end is the dirtiest thing i have ever had to prep for painting so you should be just fine.
12-26-2008, 11:10 AM
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My mom would **** if I did that in the dinning room! Looks nice though. I think I can get the block clean enough, I was just curious as to what needs to be taped/removed. Should I just paint it with the water pump and whatever else still attached to the front?
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12-26-2008, 03:38 PM
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are you painting the accy`s also. if not, and its not in the vehicle id take them off. that way, later on down the road if you have to replace a part(ie.. waterpump) you wont have to worry about the seal the paint buildup has left behind.
12-27-2008, 12:30 AM
#10
It really wouldnt have gone so bad if i hadnt discovered the 4500rpm 4" brass wire wheel had a 1/4" drive just like my 36,000rpm die grinder. You would not believe how fast that will clean something. Be preppared with tweezers though as several stray wires will go through the denim jeans and into various areas of the flesh.