robbied31

iTrader: (1)

Yeah, you are right. I guess I should be happy I found it now instead of months down the road.

1FastBrick

iTrader: (16)

Gee didn't take long to find this... I didn't even have to go down to my source either

66 frame specs
http://www.chevelles.com/forums/show...31&postcount=2

this is a 69 frame
http://s193.photobucket.com/albums/z...=framedims.jpg

Don't forget to copy and save this stuff guys....

pist0lpete

iTrader: (3)

Ya I knew it was on there I just had not taken the time to search for it yet. Thanks for the link.

1FastBrick

iTrader: (16)

1FastBrick

iTrader: (16)

so you think you will get to measure it this weekend???

robbied31

iTrader: (1)

That's the plan. but as you guys know, my plans don't always work out I have all the body bolts pulled, I just need some muscle to help me pull it off. Going to have to have the kid invite a few friends over and feed them or something. I built a car dolly a few years ago for my convertible bug, hoping to use it again for the chevelle. Couple mods here and there might get it done.

I have the 66 specs also, has anyone found the 67 specs with the side view yet? Doesn't seem to be as readily available as the 66 specs.

I have been in touch with the guy that has the 66 frame in bakersfield. It seems I have a few parts he wants so if this turns out bad after measuring, maybe I can get away with a straight up trade. Just don't want to drive all the way to Bakersfield and find something wrong with that frame. Or worse yet, my dumbass going down to get that frame and not seeing something wrong with it and dragging a crap frame back home........

Rob

john 67

And remember this when the time comes, the body bushings that are under the front seat area are different than the rest , they are shallower , most sets do not give you the correct bushings for this area, JOHN

1FastBrick

iTrader: (16)

my under standing is they are the same. The only difference being the rear spring mounts and springs were changed on the 67 model. I had the same issue when looking for spec's for my 65 chevelle. They did not have an actual print because the frame demensions did not change. some were in that book it made note of things like that.

67Mal

Rob,
Sorry it took me a while to find this, Year One faxed it to me in 02.
It does not say it's for 67 but thats what I ask for and it checked out
with my frame.
All body styles in 66-67 had the same wheelbase, with the stationwagon
and Elco only being longer in the rear section.

hope this helps,
Malcolm

robbied31

iTrader: (1)

Thanks guys!
I got the body off the frame today.








I will check specs tomorrow. Something I noticed on the top of the frame right above the crack. Is this indentation on the top inside edge on the passenger side of normal? It is directly opposite the crack in my frame.







thanks again........and again......

Rob

Edit...... I see the same indentation in John67's frame. looks like it is for starter, huh?

1FastBrick

iTrader: (16)

Yes thats normal... I think is was for exahust clearance...

67Mal

Yes it's normal, in fact it just makes room for 5.3 passenger side manifold.

would be nice if the driver side worked as easy.

Malcolm

robbied31

iTrader: (1)

EDIT.....EDIT.....EDIT....
After double and triple checking, I had the rear of the car at the wrong height. The datum line is to be setup to the bottom of the frame behind the rear body mounts just before the frame takes off up and over the rear axle. I had setup right at the body mounts which makes the rear of the car too low. By getting setup properly to the datum line, the frame is within 1/8" and at worst 3/16" everywhere. Most importantly, the front of the frame is within 1/8" on one side and 1/16" on the other. I am done worrying about the frame. I will get frame welded, gusseted and move on.......

Original post below....
OK,
I setup the frame on jackstands and using shims, I got the framed leveled using a laser level. On the GM spec sheet, it shows a dimension of 5" from datum line [level line] to the bottom of frame at front body mount and body mount in front of rear axle. My frame was at 10" above my laser leve line. So, I simply add 5" to all GM dimensions. Going by GM '66 frame specs everything is pretty much within 1/4" of specs. The GM spec dimension in the very front from datum line to top of frame is 14 7/16". Add the 5" correction for my level line and it should measure 19 7/16". It measured 19 3/4". 5/16" out of spec. Actually not bad for a 42 year old frame, huh? and the back dimensions are a little low.

I can't exactly read all the dimensions on the Year One specs Malcom posted, but if I use that, it say's the front of my frame is an inch out of spec too high? Not sure the year one spec sheet jibes with the Original GM specs. all dimensions are to different reference points so it is hard to compare. But, my frame measures 3 3/4" tall on the outside between front body mount and body mount in front of the rear axle. so if I subtract 3 3/4" from the 10 3/4" on the year one spec, I get 7". So the dimension from the bottom of frame to the hole on front of frame should be 7 3/8". The hole on my frame on very front is 1 1/2" down from top of frame to center of hole. So there is a bust in dimensions between the two specs by 5/8" to 3/4" by my calculations.

I assume that makes no sense whatsoever, but if I go by GM specs, I am pretty close I think..........

Rob

pist0lpete

iTrader: (3)

Well thats good to hear glad there was nothing serious to worry about. However, I am still not sure what the discrepancies are between my car and yours as far as fitment goes.

robbied31

iTrader: (1)

Pist0lpete,
I was half hoping the frame was whacked to explain the discrepancies, but am very glad the frame is straight. I am sure the main discrepancy is me and my inexperience with v8's. The body bushings were very worn out [they crumbled if you looked at them wrong], I assume it's possible the body could have been shifted forward some and I am using the CTSV pan instead of the F-Body pan. I am thinking maybe my head to firewall reference point is out of whack compared to yours. I now have the engine back in with the original '67 frame stands [1/2' to 5/8' lower than my frame stands] and the engine about an inch further back than with the body on the frame. This gives me all kinds of room between steering box and alternator but I will have to notch for AC. That's OK, if the headers will work and I get to keep the engine lower. I will have to work on AC and re-fab cross member tab again. I think if the head hits the firewall now, I will modify the firewall to keep engine lower and further back.

two steps forward, one and a half steps back.....

Rob

71 chevelle

iTrader: (13)

Not to hijack this thread but does anyone have the spec sheets for a 71 chevelle or will the one for the 69 above work. I am in the same problem with my frame. I actually have a spare frame but the one on the car looks to be off on the rear.

Thanks.

link to build.

https://ls1tech.com/forums/conversio...-wait-see.html

robbied31

iTrader: (1)

If I am not mistaken, 68-72 have same frame dimensions

Rob

robbied31

iTrader: (1)

Help,
I have owned the car a couple years and it has never had a motor or trans in it since so the front suspension has always been at it's highest point of travel. When I had the LQ4 and 4l80e in it, the front suspension never came down an inch. How do I get the front suspension to come down so I can check final ride height clearance between oil pan and tie rods? Am I going to have to change the springs? cut the springs? get dropped spindles?

Thanks

Rob

pist0lpete

iTrader: (3)

Well assuming it was an original small block car it should be really close once its all said and done (aluminum heads will take off some weight). Mine didn't come down until I had all the front sheet metal on it radiator etc. I replaced an iron block with an aluminum block so it does sit a bit higher but I still think it looks good.

robbied31

iTrader: (1)

I guess in the end, I will figure out how to get the ride height I want, but for now, how do I get front suspension down [wheels up] to check tie rod clearance with oil pan. The tie rods are going to rotate a certain distance when it gets to ride height. I just want to make sure the zerks rotate all the way off oil pan at ride height.

Do I need to pull the springs to make this happen now? or is there another way?

Thanks

Rob