Where do I send My 2001 A4 Harness for My LSX my swap?
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Where do I send My 2001 A4 Harness for My LSX my swap?
Just wondering where everyone is sending their factory harnesses to get reworked to fit there swaps? I'm doing a Foxbody Swap and I need to get my harness ready to go in my mustang. I'm running a 2001 A4 computer out of a 2001 Z28. I'm keeping the Rossler 4l60e in the mustang, just need somewhere to get my harness ready. Let me know, thanks Guys
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Wait4Me (Jesse Bubb) reworked my stock '99 T/A harness for me. The price was deifnitely right. It was something like $325 including reworking the harness and reprogramming the PCM. If I remember correctly, I think he's a sponsor on the truck forums.
I'm still working on the installation, but from what I can see everything looks good. If I were starting over, I'd opt to have him leave the hot-with-ignition wires as separate circuits rather than joining them together into one big circuit.
I'm curious -- those of you that have used Speartech, does he keep the hot-with-ignition circuits separate, or does he join them into one? In terms of power connections, I only ended up with a bat (+), a hot with ignition, and a ground. It makes it easier for installation this way, but I'm debating about opening the harness back up and splitting the hot-with-ignition wires out into separate circuits for better fusing / better protection. The way it's set up right now, I'd just have one 60A hot-with-ignition circuit.
I'm still working on the installation, but from what I can see everything looks good. If I were starting over, I'd opt to have him leave the hot-with-ignition wires as separate circuits rather than joining them together into one big circuit.
I'm curious -- those of you that have used Speartech, does he keep the hot-with-ignition circuits separate, or does he join them into one? In terms of power connections, I only ended up with a bat (+), a hot with ignition, and a ground. It makes it easier for installation this way, but I'm debating about opening the harness back up and splitting the hot-with-ignition wires out into separate circuits for better fusing / better protection. The way it's set up right now, I'd just have one 60A hot-with-ignition circuit.
#12
If you guys are truly on a budget and are ok with locating the stock pcm under the hood just build your on Harness. It is very very easy and takes no special tools or know how. Jesse at wait4meperformance will do a custom tune for 84$. All the info you need (approximately 12 wires to hook up is in the sticky section) You can buy a standalone fuse box that is practically color coded wire for wire from currentperformance.com for 109$. On the other hand if your building a trailer queen and have the need to hide everything I understand Speartech is the way to go he will build the custom length you need. Good luck with your build.
#14
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Any wire on a circuit, should be able to handle the current of the fuse for at least a short amount of time to let the fuse blow, and protect the wiring.
I have used a 4 fuse - block from my local autozone. Motormite part# 85668. They stopped keeping it on the shelf, but can order, for about $4.00 each.
I wired my harness, PCM, COILS, MAF to one 15amp fuse.
INJECTORS to another 15amp fuse
O2 sensor, Trans, TAC module, check engine lamp to a 3rd 15 amp fuse
PCM Batt and Fuel Pump Relay feed to 4th 15amp fuse.
I have a 30 amp fuse inline feeding to the fuse block, main feed, never popped it.
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I would want to split up the circuits some. If you think about it, if the 20 AWG wiring to the transmission was to rub and get grounded, its going to take 60amps to blow the fuse. Whats going to happen on a 20 AWG wire..fuse blow..or the wire turns red hot and melts down.
Any wire on a circuit, should be able to handle the current of the fuse for at least a short amount of time to let the fuse blow, and protect the wiring.
I have used a 4 fuse - block from my local autozone. Motormite part# 85668. They stopped keeping it on the shelf, but can order, for about $4.00 each.
I wired my harness, PCM, COILS, MAF to one 15amp fuse.
INJECTORS to another 15amp fuse
O2 sensor, Trans, TAC module, check engine lamp to a 3rd 15 amp fuse
PCM Batt and Fuel Pump Relay feed to 4th 15amp fuse.
I have a 30 amp fuse inline feeding to the fuse block, main feed, never popped it.
Any wire on a circuit, should be able to handle the current of the fuse for at least a short amount of time to let the fuse blow, and protect the wiring.
I have used a 4 fuse - block from my local autozone. Motormite part# 85668. They stopped keeping it on the shelf, but can order, for about $4.00 each.
I wired my harness, PCM, COILS, MAF to one 15amp fuse.
INJECTORS to another 15amp fuse
O2 sensor, Trans, TAC module, check engine lamp to a 3rd 15 amp fuse
PCM Batt and Fuel Pump Relay feed to 4th 15amp fuse.
I have a 30 amp fuse inline feeding to the fuse block, main feed, never popped it.
#17
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Wait4Me (Jesse Bubb) reworked my stock '99 T/A harness for me. The price was deifnitely right. It was something like $325 including reworking the harness and reprogramming the PCM. If I remember correctly, I think he's a sponsor on the truck forums.
I'm still working on the installation, but from what I can see everything looks good. If I were starting over, I'd opt to have him leave the hot-with-ignition wires as separate circuits rather than joining them together into one big circuit.
I'm curious -- those of you that have used Speartech, does he keep the hot-with-ignition circuits separate, or does he join them into one? In terms of power connections, I only ended up with a bat (+), a hot with ignition, and a ground. It makes it easier for installation this way, but I'm debating about opening the harness back up and splitting the hot-with-ignition wires out into separate circuits for better fusing / better protection. The way it's set up right now, I'd just have one 60A hot-with-ignition circuit.
I'm still working on the installation, but from what I can see everything looks good. If I were starting over, I'd opt to have him leave the hot-with-ignition wires as separate circuits rather than joining them together into one big circuit.
I'm curious -- those of you that have used Speartech, does he keep the hot-with-ignition circuits separate, or does he join them into one? In terms of power connections, I only ended up with a bat (+), a hot with ignition, and a ground. It makes it easier for installation this way, but I'm debating about opening the harness back up and splitting the hot-with-ignition wires out into separate circuits for better fusing / better protection. The way it's set up right now, I'd just have one 60A hot-with-ignition circuit.
Our rework service is a finished product ready for use, not something that has to be figured out and finished by the customer.
We do go into the harness and separate the power circuits. Then we bring them out to individual fuses for proper protection.
Our service also includes the fuel pump relay with an extra long wire for your convenience, you cut it to proper length to hook up to your fuel pump.
Our harnesses also include the diagnostic port with check engine light fully wired up and ready for use.
Any available gauge wires, etc. are also brought out and neatly labeled for quick and easy hookup.
In addition, all harnesses are tested on real engines here to assure proper operation before shipping back to the customer!
All of the above are included with both our reworked harness service, as well as our new custom harnesses.
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91 Z28 LS2 408CI, LS9 Supercharger, LPE GT7 cam, Yank3000, 3450 raceweight.
Latest numbers: 9.71 ET, 141.42 MPH, 1.40 60' , 610 RWHP Mustang Dyno
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91 Z28 LS2 408CI, LS9 Supercharger, LPE GT7 cam, Yank3000, 3450 raceweight.
Latest numbers: 9.71 ET, 141.42 MPH, 1.40 60' , 610 RWHP Mustang Dyno
www.speartech.com
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awsome will I know who will be getting my business, thanks alot for putting it out there to see what I would be getting is great, I will call you guys and have it setup for you guys to get me fixed up, thanks again, Ill be calling you shortly.