Which ECU to use for hi-power conversions/swaps?
08-21-2009, 12:23 AM
#1
Which ECU to use for hi-power conversions/swaps? Doing a Lq4 swap into a 1970 Nova. I believe the block is from a 2004 Silverado. I'm starting from scratch so there is no ECU. It will have a TSP cam, 11:1 comp. ratio, CNC L92 heads and i'm not to sure about the intake yet, but I am heavily leaning toward a 4-bbl type. Which ECU should I use? What donor car is the best to pull it from? If you are running a stock-type ECU and you are pushing 500+ hp in a swap set-up, please help! Thanks fellas.
08-21-2009, 08:20 AM
#2
I asked this same question in my Nova thread in this page. The feedback I got is pretty much any truck or car ECU will work, but it needs to match the reluctor wheel for your engine. I am pretty sure your 2004 engine will have the earlier 24 reluctor, so you need to get an ECM from an LS1 vehicle.
08-21-2009, 09:08 AM
#4
I asked this same question in my Nova thread in this page. The feedback I got is pretty much any truck or car ECU will work, but it needs to match the reluctor wheel for your engine. I am pretty sure your 2004 engine will have the earlier 24 reluctor, so you need to get an ECM from an LS1 vehicle.
08-21-2009, 11:40 AM
#6
Yes, it can be made to work. Lingenfelter makes a module that converts a 58x crank/4x cam to a 24x crank/1x cam.
http://www.lingenfelter.com/mm5/merc...gory_Code=C163
http://www.lingenfelter.com/mm5/merc...gory_Code=C163
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08-21-2009, 03:39 PM
#8
^^^Since I don't have an ECU at all, i'm trying to figure out which is the best ECU for my set-up. I'm still learning all of this fuel injection, LSx crap. I failed to mention in the opening post that i'm building a 408 which has a 4.0" stroke and NO RELUCTOR WHEEL INSTALLED. So, since I have to purchase a reluctor wheel, which one will work the best with my set-up and which one will work for the ECU (LS1) that I must purchase?
Thanks fellas!
Thanks fellas!
08-21-2009, 06:57 PM
#9
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^^^Since I don't have an ECU at all, i'm trying to figure out which is the best ECU for my set-up. I'm still learning all of this fuel injection, LSx crap. I failed to mention in the opening post that i'm building a 408 which has a 4.0" stroke and NO RELUCTOR WHEEL INSTALLED. So, since I have to purchase a reluctor wheel, which one will work the best with my set-up and which one will work for the ECU (LS1) that I must purchase?
Thanks fellas!
Thanks fellas!
08-21-2009, 07:02 PM
#10
I was referring to the converter. No need for a converter if you get a matching ECU.
Your original post didn't mention that you are also need to select a reluctor wheel. It is my understanding that you can't mix ECU's and reluctors. If you have a 58x reluctor you need a 58x ECU and vice versa. Not sure if you need to match the reluctor to the cam sensor. Maybe someone else can answer that.
Your original post didn't mention that you are also need to select a reluctor wheel. It is my understanding that you can't mix ECU's and reluctors. If you have a 58x reluctor you need a 58x ECU and vice versa. Not sure if you need to match the reluctor to the cam sensor. Maybe someone else can answer that.
08-21-2009, 08:29 PM
#12
I was referring to the converter. No need for a converter if you get a matching ECU.
Your original post didn't mention that you are also need to select a reluctor wheel. It is my understanding that you can't mix ECU's and reluctors. If you have a 58x reluctor you need a 58x ECU and vice versa. Not sure if you need to match the reluctor to the cam sensor. Maybe someone else can answer that.
Your original post didn't mention that you are also need to select a reluctor wheel. It is my understanding that you can't mix ECU's and reluctors. If you have a 58x reluctor you need a 58x ECU and vice versa. Not sure if you need to match the reluctor to the cam sensor. Maybe someone else can answer that.
08-21-2009, 09:05 PM
#13
its $400 for the box,$250 if you assemble yourself, about $300 used and assembled, the relay board is 70 and the wiring bundle is $40.
and that takes care of your fuel
08-21-2009, 09:28 PM
#14
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I have a car that's megasquirted - it looked like a cheap option at the time.
Unless you are super poor and have a TON of time, or have a friend with a baseline tune, I'd strongly advise going with a stock ECU. Simplest imo would be to get the LS1, go with a 24x reluctor and get a mail order tune. If wiring's not your thing, there's a bunch of places will do you a harness.
It's going to cost you way more in time and aggravation to get an MS setup plumbed and running right than using what everyone else does. If the cost is an issue, and you have hours to get through the (steep) MS learning curve, then by all means go for it. Just do it with your eyes open (and GFL, you'll need it).
My car runs great - but then I ended up dyno tuning it to get it right, and that cost me way more than the MS box did...
Unless you are super poor and have a TON of time, or have a friend with a baseline tune, I'd strongly advise going with a stock ECU. Simplest imo would be to get the LS1, go with a 24x reluctor and get a mail order tune. If wiring's not your thing, there's a bunch of places will do you a harness.
It's going to cost you way more in time and aggravation to get an MS setup plumbed and running right than using what everyone else does. If the cost is an issue, and you have hours to get through the (steep) MS learning curve, then by all means go for it. Just do it with your eyes open (and GFL, you'll need it).
My car runs great - but then I ended up dyno tuning it to get it right, and that cost me way more than the MS box did...
08-21-2009, 10:39 PM
#15
I just so happened to pick up a '99 Corvette ECM for my '69 Nova LQ4 project today off the Corvette Forum. It's even out of a Fixed Roof Coupe, just like my daily driver '99 FRC. So now I have a back up if either one goes out. Now I know I need to get a 24 reluctor crank, and come up with a matching harness. That was Easy.
Also - a used LS1 ECM cost me $50 plus shipping, and I already have HP Tuners. So that really is the budget way for me to go.
Also - a used LS1 ECM cost me $50 plus shipping, and I already have HP Tuners. So that really is the budget way for me to go.
08-21-2009, 11:43 PM
#16
I have a car that's megasquirted - it looked like a cheap option at the time.
Unless you are super poor and have a TON of time, or have a friend with a baseline tune, I'd strongly advise going with a stock ECU. Simplest imo would be to get the LS1, go with a 24x reluctor and get a mail order tune. If wiring's not your thing, there's a bunch of places will do you a harness.
It's going to cost you way more in time and aggravation to get an MS setup plumbed and running right than using what everyone else does. If the cost is an issue, and you have hours to get through the (steep) MS learning curve, then by all means go for it. Just do it with your eyes open (and GFL, you'll need it).
My car runs great - but then I ended up dyno tuning it to get it right, and that cost me way more than the MS box did...
Unless you are super poor and have a TON of time, or have a friend with a baseline tune, I'd strongly advise going with a stock ECU. Simplest imo would be to get the LS1, go with a 24x reluctor and get a mail order tune. If wiring's not your thing, there's a bunch of places will do you a harness.
It's going to cost you way more in time and aggravation to get an MS setup plumbed and running right than using what everyone else does. If the cost is an issue, and you have hours to get through the (steep) MS learning curve, then by all means go for it. Just do it with your eyes open (and GFL, you'll need it).
My car runs great - but then I ended up dyno tuning it to get it right, and that cost me way more than the MS box did...
but, if he is planning to use tuning sw/hw, I really like the megasquirt. in on my bbc , in tuner studio, I input my CID, desired AFR, size of injectors, and it spit out a table that got me exactly 13.5:1 at idle(which is what I was looking for)
now, it does take time to tune from there, but thats half the fun
ps, I dont see how the plumbing is different when going with megasquirt vs stock
08-22-2009, 07:41 AM
#17
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Because you have to run everything to either the relay block or the ECU.
My point was that you can get a premade harness to plug into an LS1 ECU easily. You have to do it all yourself with a megasquirt.
I'm not trying to run down the MS - it powers my car very well.
I was merely trying to say that if the aim is to get a running car quickly, the MS may not be the best approach. If you want to tinker, well that's a different story...
My point was that you can get a premade harness to plug into an LS1 ECU easily. You have to do it all yourself with a megasquirt.
I'm not trying to run down the MS - it powers my car very well.
I was merely trying to say that if the aim is to get a running car quickly, the MS may not be the best approach. If you want to tinker, well that's a different story...
08-22-2009, 11:06 AM
#18
if he is planning to use a stock ecu with none of the tuning hardward(efilive, hp tuners ,etc) then I would concur that a stock setup is better(is stock maf or SD???)
but, if he is planning to use tuning sw/hw, I really like the megasquirt. in on my bbc , in tuner studio, I input my CID, desired AFR, size of injectors, and it spit out a table that got me exactly 13.5:1 at idle(which is what I was looking for)
now, it does take time to tune from there, but thats half the fun
ps, I dont see how the plumbing is different when going with megasquirt vs stock
but, if he is planning to use tuning sw/hw, I really like the megasquirt. in on my bbc , in tuner studio, I input my CID, desired AFR, size of injectors, and it spit out a table that got me exactly 13.5:1 at idle(which is what I was looking for)
now, it does take time to tune from there, but thats half the fun
ps, I dont see how the plumbing is different when going with megasquirt vs stock
I have not played with the tuning software and I am not sure if MAF or SD is the best for my HP goals and or driving style. I have done some research on the Mega Squirt EFI system in the past, along with a few others. It seems like if you do have the time and patience for the assembly and tuning, it is the way to go. This project being one of my first efi and LSx, I would prefer to do things the "simplest" way possible first. I just have no clue to what that was is. Lots of info and definitely lots of different opinions about all of this stuff.
I have hi-HP goals, so I would like (with all of LS1TECH's help/input) to achieve that rather quickly and with the least resistance.
Build:
408 CID
CNC L92 heads-here
6.0L iron block-here
TSP Giant cam-here
11:1 Diamond pistons-ordered and in route
GMPP L92, 4-bbl intake-up in air (might run a PERF. INDUCTION 4-bbl type)
Callies Compustar 4.0" crank-next to order (with correct reluctor wheel)
SCAT/EAGLE 6.125" rods-next to order
ECU-not sure what the hell to purchase, so I haven't yet
With that being said, my question is, will a stock ECU be "good enough" to help make 540+ RWHP with the above set-up?
Last edited by sixt9er; 08-22-2009 at 11:18 AM. Reason: punctuation and grammar
08-22-2009, 11:34 AM
#19
Maybe consider an aftermarket setup like Big Stuff or the FAST FXI. It seems you can get FXI stuff used at a good price for what you get. It is still a more expensive option but its nothing short of awesome. I'm running my L92 based stroker with carb style intake and TB off an FXI system.
08-22-2009, 12:14 PM
#20
Maybe consider an aftermarket setup like Big Stuff or the FAST FXI. It seems you can get FXI stuff used at a good price for what you get. It is still a more expensive option but its nothing short of awesome. I'm running my L92 based stroker with carb style intake and TB off an FXI system.
Will the stock ECU do the same thing that the aftermarket ones will?
What are the REAL differences between the stock and aftermarket ECU's?