"Reverse" swap help needed... (LS1 to EFI SBC)
#1
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I have a 2000 Z28 that I want to put a EFI (DFI or F.A.S.T.) SBC into. Even though this isn't the conventional "Hybrid or Conversion", I hope that some of you can answer my questions or lend any pertinent information. My questions are as follows:
I wish to retain power windows and locks, key start, lights, brake lights, turn signals, etc. (HVAC, airbags will be removed, and I am going to make a custom gauge panel with Auto Meter gauges, so the stock gauges and such will be gone.
When I remove the LS1/4L60E, PCM, and associated harnesses, I will be left with the BCM, correct? This will function independent of the motor and PCM, right? Will I have any issues due to removal of the PCM? If I install a stand alone engine management system (such as FAST or DFI), will everything above work as it is supposed to?
What about "VATS", is that PCM or BCM controlled?
Anything else to worry about or give thought to? Anyone else done this swap? Another option is to remove all wiring, then rewire with Painless Wiring kit, but that'd be a pain, especially if I can get everything else to work properly using the factory harness.
Anyone want a 17,000 mile LS1/4L60E?
Thanks in advance, Shawn
I wish to retain power windows and locks, key start, lights, brake lights, turn signals, etc. (HVAC, airbags will be removed, and I am going to make a custom gauge panel with Auto Meter gauges, so the stock gauges and such will be gone.
When I remove the LS1/4L60E, PCM, and associated harnesses, I will be left with the BCM, correct? This will function independent of the motor and PCM, right? Will I have any issues due to removal of the PCM? If I install a stand alone engine management system (such as FAST or DFI), will everything above work as it is supposed to?
What about "VATS", is that PCM or BCM controlled?
Anything else to worry about or give thought to? Anyone else done this swap? Another option is to remove all wiring, then rewire with Painless Wiring kit, but that'd be a pain, especially if I can get everything else to work properly using the factory harness.
Anyone want a 17,000 mile LS1/4L60E?
![Winky](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_wink.gif)
Thanks in advance, Shawn
#2
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Why the decision to go SBC?
Madman or George C might have insight into how hard that would be to do. I think they are running SBC's in 4th Gens.
VATS is PCM controlled and can be turned on/off with LS1 Edit or VATS bypass module.
Sure I want the LS1/4L06E...how about I pick it up and we call it even.
Madman or George C might have insight into how hard that would be to do. I think they are running SBC's in 4th Gens.
VATS is PCM controlled and can be turned on/off with LS1 Edit or VATS bypass module.
Sure I want the LS1/4L06E...how about I pick it up and we call it even.
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#3
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Originally Posted by 99 Black Bird T/A
Why the decision to go SBC?
VATS is PCM controlled and can be turned on/off with LS1 Edit or VATS bypass module.
VATS is PCM controlled and can be turned on/off with LS1 Edit or VATS bypass module.
As far as the VATS, what happens when I remove the PCM with the motor, the key will just work like a key, without the VATS? As the LS1 and PCM will be removed, I'll not have LS1EDIT.
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#5
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VATS interfaces thru the BCM so even though the PCM and LS1 are gone, VATS will still be determining whether to allow the starter relay to operate or not. Eventually you'll probably just want to wire around the starter relay so that VATS has no effect on anything.
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91 Z28 LS2 408CI, LS9 Supercharger, LPE GT7 cam, Yank3000, 3450 raceweight.
Latest numbers: 9.71 ET, 141.42 MPH, 1.40 60' , 610 RWHP Mustang Dyno
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91 Z28 LS2 408CI, LS9 Supercharger, LPE GT7 cam, Yank3000, 3450 raceweight.
Latest numbers: 9.71 ET, 141.42 MPH, 1.40 60' , 610 RWHP Mustang Dyno
www.speartech.com
#6
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Other than that, will everything else function properly? (Power windows, locks, turn signals, all lights, horn, etc)
Where can I find out how to "disable" the VATS as you recommend, is there a "VATS module" somewhere that I can bypass? I really would like to keep a key ignition (no push button starter).
Thanks, Shawn
Where can I find out how to "disable" the VATS as you recommend, is there a "VATS module" somewhere that I can bypass? I really would like to keep a key ignition (no push button starter).
Thanks, Shawn
#7
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Everything else should function ok.
No, you won't loose your key switch. To eliminate VATS from the starter system, you go to the starter relay and permanently ground the wire (yellow/black) that gets grounded by the BCM. The key will still operate as usual, just no VATS interface anymore.
No, you won't loose your key switch. To eliminate VATS from the starter system, you go to the starter relay and permanently ground the wire (yellow/black) that gets grounded by the BCM. The key will still operate as usual, just no VATS interface anymore.
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91 Z28 LS2 408CI, LS9 Supercharger, LPE GT7 cam, Yank3000, 3450 raceweight.
Latest numbers: 9.71 ET, 141.42 MPH, 1.40 60' , 610 RWHP Mustang Dyno
www.speartech.com
![](https://ls1tech.com/forums/signaturepics/sigpic1124_1.gif)
91 Z28 LS2 408CI, LS9 Supercharger, LPE GT7 cam, Yank3000, 3450 raceweight.
Latest numbers: 9.71 ET, 141.42 MPH, 1.40 60' , 610 RWHP Mustang Dyno
www.speartech.com
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well thinkin that you still have the original harness ....the purple wire for the starter should still work as long as you still have the key due to the bcm sending the signal for da starter from the bcm and not the pcm which wont send any information back to the bcm ....so vats it is not an isue for a non ls1 engine or lt1
#9
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Originally Posted by SPANKY LS1
I have a 2000 Z28 that I want to put a EFI (DFI or F.A.S.T.) SBC into. Even though this isn't the conventional "Hybrid or Conversion", I hope that some of you can answer my questions or lend any pertinent information. My questions are as follows:
I wish to retain power windows and locks, key start, lights, brake lights, turn signals, etc. (HVAC, airbags will be removed, and I am going to make a custom gauge panel with Auto Meter gauges, so the stock gauges and such will be gone.
When I remove the LS1/4L60E, PCM, and associated harnesses, I will be left with the BCM, correct? This will function independent of the motor and PCM, right? Will I have any issues due to removal of the PCM? If I install a stand alone engine management system (such as FAST or DFI), will everything above work as it is supposed to?
What about "VATS", is that PCM or BCM controlled?
Anything else to worry about or give thought to? Anyone else done this swap? Another option is to remove all wiring, then rewire with Painless Wiring kit, but that'd be a pain, especially if I can get everything else to work properly using the factory harness.
Anyone want a 17,000 mile LS1/4L60E?
Thanks in advance, Shawn
I wish to retain power windows and locks, key start, lights, brake lights, turn signals, etc. (HVAC, airbags will be removed, and I am going to make a custom gauge panel with Auto Meter gauges, so the stock gauges and such will be gone.
When I remove the LS1/4L60E, PCM, and associated harnesses, I will be left with the BCM, correct? This will function independent of the motor and PCM, right? Will I have any issues due to removal of the PCM? If I install a stand alone engine management system (such as FAST or DFI), will everything above work as it is supposed to?
What about "VATS", is that PCM or BCM controlled?
Anything else to worry about or give thought to? Anyone else done this swap? Another option is to remove all wiring, then rewire with Painless Wiring kit, but that'd be a pain, especially if I can get everything else to work properly using the factory harness.
Anyone want a 17,000 mile LS1/4L60E?
![Winky](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_wink.gif)
Thanks in advance, Shawn
Other than that, LT1s mount the same and use the same trannies as SBCs, so all the mounting parts should be easy to come by.
#11
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a good friend of mine put a sbc into a 4th gen. re wired the whole car, using aftermarket gauges, everything else still works.... power windows, lights and such.
the cut a huge rectangular hole under the cowl (cant eally see it) with the cap and rotor off, you can just barely wiggle the distibuter out.. its a pain, but it comes out.
good luck!
the cut a huge rectangular hole under the cowl (cant eally see it) with the cap and rotor off, you can just barely wiggle the distibuter out.. its a pain, but it comes out.
good luck!