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Ugh, that was dumb. Suggestions needed...

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Old Feb 5, 2010 | 10:58 PM
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Default Ugh, that was dumb. Suggestions needed...

I'm pretty sure this engine hates me.



Anyway, a couple weekends ago I went to put the heads on my 5.3L build. Well turns out the head bolt threads had too much junk in them and I couldn't torque down the heads correctly. After finding that a thread chase would run $100+ dollars, I decided to take a small wire wheel to it.





The best size I found was a gun cleaning kit. Turns out that is a bad idea, as the threads aren't designed to handle the torque needed to clean the threads. Now I have a wire brush stuck in the head bolt hole.

I've tried using a wire with a "C" at the end to hook it, which didn't work. I also tried one of those grab-it type deals, where you push the button and it opens up a hand to grab things out of tight areas.

Any ideas would be great, this engine is driving me crazy!
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Old Feb 5, 2010 | 11:23 PM
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Man, I am laughing my butt off right now - NOT at you, I think that it's just pure relief that it's not just ME that stupid **** like that happens to!!!

Anyway, is it a "closed" hole (meaning that it's just there for the head bolt/stud)? It doesn't go into a water passage, or anything else, does it?
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Old Feb 5, 2010 | 11:45 PM
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haha, no worries, it's pretty funny.

I bought this engine for $150 or something close to that with a spun cam bearing a long time ago. It has fought me ever since, costing much more than a running engine would have. (all the gaskets, head bolts, rod bolts and other misc. add up quick on these things!) I'm learning though!

Anyway, yes, it is a closed bolt hole. Which is good and bad I guess.

I'm 23 and the veteran of one 302 build, thought these LS engines would be no problem for an expert like me

Again, any suggestions welcome. I just tried making a slip knot with no success.
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Old Feb 6, 2010 | 12:00 AM
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Got it. I highly suggest people don't use a gun cleaning kit for their head bolt holes! You'll have to wait and see how I follow up this screw up! Thanks for looking all.
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Old Feb 6, 2010 | 12:18 AM
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Glad to hear it - for the sake of "fellow" dumbasses everywhere, how did you finally get it?
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Old Feb 6, 2010 | 12:19 AM
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did you use a torch?
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Old Feb 6, 2010 | 12:29 AM
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Taps are your friend.
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Old Feb 6, 2010 | 12:45 AM
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I've always heard not to use taps, as they remove material instead of just cleaning the threads. Turns out thread chases are just too spendy for my blood.

As dumb as it is, (and makes me feel) turns out the threads on the brush were fine. The first thing I had tried was using another extension (One with good threads) and threading it onto the brush, but it didn't seem to work.

Somehow the extension threaded onto the brush when I put it down there to guide my slip knot around the brush. When I went to pull out the extension so I could try tightening the knot the brush came with! Just got lucky I guess. Probably helped I had started smashing down the wires of the brush with a screwdriver.


Last edited by bmxmon; Feb 6, 2010 at 12:45 AM. Reason: Spelling
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Old Feb 6, 2010 | 01:07 AM
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In case someone stumbles across this thread looking for a way to chase the head bolt holes, I highly suggest using ls1howto.com's idea of grinding an old headbolt. Check it out here.
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Old Feb 6, 2010 | 01:35 AM
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Get some of these nylon brushes and you can clean out the holes and the brushes won't get stuck.

http://www.goodway.com/accessory/548-gtc-211.aspx
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Old Feb 6, 2010 | 08:25 AM
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Originally Posted by bmxmon
In case someone stumbles across this thread looking for a way to chase the head bolt holes, I highly suggest using ls1howto.com's idea of grinding an old headbolt. Check it out here.
Just to save you more grief in the future... you know the factory head bolts are torque to yield which means they are good for one use only, right?
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Old Feb 6, 2010 | 12:13 PM
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Hey,

To clean those holes up, take an old head bolt and use a grinder to cut a slot down one side of the threads. Make sure you clean up the edges of the threads so that they aren't oversized/beat up. Run that up and down the threads a few times with a little oil on it and then clean the holes out (flipping the motor over helps this).

That way you don't take out any material but you can get the threads cleared of gunk.

And spun cam bearing 5.3? Did that motor come from me?
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Old Feb 6, 2010 | 02:41 PM
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dude go buy a "bottom" tap wich basically is a finish tap for blind holes wich is the situation u have here

the end of the tap will not be tapered . it will have maybee a 1 thread chamfer and thats it

run the bottom tap thru all the holes by hand with a tap wrench not a crescent wrench

use a little lightweight oil and an air blow off gun

u will not cut any new threads

just make sure whenever you are using a tap that after a few complete turns in u make 1 comlete turn out to let the junk ur getting out start in the outward motion

don't be afraid of it
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Old Feb 6, 2010 | 02:45 PM
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Originally Posted by digitalsolo
Hey,

To clean those holes up, take an old head bolt and use a grinder to cut a slot down one side of the threads. Make sure you clean up the edges of the threads so that they aren't oversized/beat up. Run that up and down the threads a few times with a little oil on it and then clean the holes out (flipping the motor over helps this).

That way you don't take out any material but you can get the threads cleared of gunk.

And spun cam bearing 5.3? Did that motor come from me?
yep, just cut a slit down the side of a old head bolt and it will remove the old gunk. no need for taps or chasers.
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Old Feb 6, 2010 | 02:51 PM
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you need a thread chaser NOT a tap! a tap cuts theads a CHASER cleans
threads
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Old Feb 6, 2010 | 05:14 PM
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i am a UAW diemaker by trade and part of my diemaking apprentiship was machinist training

i have worked as a journeyman diemaker for 17 yrs

Use the Tap . Used the proper way it will do what it is desgined for.

Used with a crescent wrench pulling uneven on it it will cut the threads larger than what they were originally epending on how you operate it wich is why i said dont use a crescent wrench

do as u wish either way doesn't matter to me but they make 3 different taps for a reason

taper tap plug tap and bottom tap

all 3 serve a different purpose guys
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Old Feb 6, 2010 | 10:49 PM
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I did the "grind the bolt" idea I got from ls1howto.com. Worked great, the new bolt's went down nicely.


(Just mocked up, but the heads are torqued down)

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Old Feb 6, 2010 | 10:53 PM
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Originally Posted by digitalsolo
And spun cam bearing 5.3? Did that motor come from me?
I bought it from a guy about 10 miles outside St. Cloud Minnesota. It was quite a while ago now.

It was really strange, just the one cam bearing was bad, everything else was fine. I just need it to run for a bit to get the electronics, fuel and drive-line setup in my car, then I'll probably be building a 6.0L.
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Old Feb 7, 2010 | 01:56 PM
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E-Works,

The slit cut bolt pretty much makes it into a thread chaser to clean the crap out of good threads. I agree, the proper tool would be even better, but if you don't have one handy, it does a good job.

bmxmon,

That wouldn't be mine then. I lost the cam bearing one forward of the rear in mine. Just spun right out of the bore, yet the bore mic'd out ok. Didn't hurt the cam either, but the oil pressure drop killed my 7/8 rod bearings. Yours is only the second time I've heard of that happening. Interesting.
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