Conversions & Swaps LSX Engines in Non-LSX Vehicles
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'70 Nova LY6/TH400 6.0VVT

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Old 05-06-2013, 06:26 PM
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Nice work! I have the same Bussman panel and they are very nice pieces, however I would reconsider mounting it that close to your ECM, unless you are just out of room an that is the only place left in the engine bay.
Old 05-06-2013, 10:54 PM
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Why? Are you concerned about emf? I am more concerned about having it so close to the radiator. I am still considering moving it to the fire wall behind the fender.
Old 05-07-2013, 12:24 AM
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Nice build. I think most people but the wideband bung right into the collector, not sure if that is an option or not.

I don't think you will have any issues with the ECM underneath the fuse block..
Old 05-07-2013, 09:55 AM
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how much amperage does your fan pull? the taurus fan I'm running necessitated an HD relay (for startup amperage spikes), which I'm running separately from my relay center. too bad the micro relays can only support 20a, otherwise you could run a lot of 5 for all your functions.
Old 05-07-2013, 10:45 AM
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I will be using a separate relay pack that came with the fan from the Volvo. See this post: https://ls1tech.com/forums/17154157-post741.html
Old 05-07-2013, 12:23 PM
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ahhhh that's right. your previous post on the relay center made it seem that you were using it for fan controls

It will only fit 3 mini relays which would be eaten up quickly with the fuel pump and fan controls.
Old 05-07-2013, 01:41 PM
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Yeah I didn't know what I was doing back then. Still have no idea what I'm doing now.
Old 06-17-2013, 03:33 PM
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::cough:: updates ::cough::
Old 06-17-2013, 03:59 PM
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I worked on it for about a half day Sunday sorting a lot of little things out. The ECM is now mounted to vibration isolators on the firewall under the driver's fender. After measuring a section of wiring to run along the inner fender, I pulled the sheet metal to get access for on-engine wiring. I finished some final trimming on the AC compressor bracket and mounted the starter for wiring purposes. I ran the first few runs of wiring and started looming some of it, but ran into a few small obstacles.For example, I am switching to an LS3 bolt-down MAP sensor (Bosch) which has a different connector from the LY6 clip-on MAP sensor (Delphi), so I need to obtain the right connector. I contacted BPAutomotive on here about making a pigtail from the MAP to the ECM pins and will probably pay him for that rather than making it myself. I am already doing all the coil and injector harness from scratch and it will cost as much for components & shipping as having him make it for me. Meanwhile I came across a Ricks EFI stainless tank for sale locally and hope to check it out tomorrow night. I still want to get it running in July.

I wish I could get a solid weekend or two working on this thing but I'm finding it nearly impossible. On a positive note, I was gifted an autocross experience in a Lamborghini Gallardo where I got to hot-lap the car for a few laps. Lamborghinis have been my dream car since childhood and I intend to own one someday, so this was a huge thrill for me. It was an awesome car to drive. It handles so differently from a rear wheel drive front engine car - very balanced. I'm ready for paddle shifters on the Nova now.
Old 06-17-2013, 05:29 PM
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FYI, I found a post with the LS3 MAP pinouts when I switched over from the LQ4 MAP. BPA has been pretty helpful, so I don't disagree with having him help you with the pinouts, but it should be as simple as a single adapter to route the LY6 wires accordingly.
Old 06-17-2013, 05:40 PM
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The problem is the actual connector at the MAP sensor is not the same. The pin terminals and the connector body are completely different, so the connector for the LY6 MAP sensor will not physically connect with the LS3 MAP sensor regardless of pinout. You can buy short adapter pigtails that go from one connector type to the other, but they are expensive. You can buy the connector body, pins/terminals, and seals, but buying individually and paying for shipping just makes it cost too much. You can buy a pigtail that goes from the MAP connector to bare/unterminated wires, but I am just going to get a custom pigtail made by BPA that includes everything between the connector and the ECM (both ends terminated).
Old 06-17-2013, 06:05 PM
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It's always something, just when you think your going to get there isn't it? Your close man.
Old 06-17-2013, 10:29 PM
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yeah, I chose option C, the connector with 6" or so of wires, then soldered it in. Of course, I did it after finishing my swap, so it was a better option than tearing apart my harness and rerouting wires.

also man, if it makes you feel any better (with everyone else firing up their swap and/or taking their cars to the drag strip), I'm about to retire mine for the summer. She started to overheat with the AC on running errands over father's day.
Old 06-18-2013, 12:06 PM
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Oh man, that sucks! You are running an aluminum radiator and a Taurus fan, right? My cooling system will be virtually the same. How hot has it been outside to cause overheating? Do you have your fan setup to run full speed whenever the AC is on?
Old 06-18-2013, 12:12 PM
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"but I am just going to get a custom pigtail made by BPA that includes everything between the connector and the ECM (both ends terminated)."

In your situation I think that is the best route for you to take. I was lucky in my case as I only had to swap two wires.
Old 06-18-2013, 04:20 PM
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Originally Posted by -TheBandit-
Oh man, that sucks! You are running an aluminum radiator and a Taurus fan, right? My cooling system will be virtually the same. How hot has it been outside to cause overheating? Do you have your fan setup to run full speed whenever the AC is on?
110°. I don't blame it for overheating one bit. Under 100 it's fine.

Edit: I'd ideally like to open up the radiator support and install a longer radiator like some have done. Maybe down the road. And I'm first planning to test how well it works without a trans cooler in front of it.
Old 06-18-2013, 04:36 PM
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I used the 4th gen radiator.. I had to open the support about +1".. i did two cut on the support and then bent the 1" back to meet the radator tank on the driver side.

Post #70

It had a line there that I used .... You have a little room on both side. but if your running a battery up front. Then there isn't much room on that side.

BC
Old 06-19-2013, 12:34 PM
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Originally Posted by hookemdevils22
110°. I don't blame it for overheating one bit. Under 100 it's fine.
Okay I guess that is pretty dang hot. I don't plan to drive my car in that kind of heat often if at all. Fomoso and Buttonwillow can get into triple digit temps in the summer, but I probably won't plan any driving during that time. The hottest it gets around here is mid upper 90s, so I should be fine. You had me worried.
Old 06-27-2013, 01:01 PM
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'Hope to see you running soon. There is something to be said about taking your time and doing it right.
Old 06-28-2013, 02:48 PM
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Thanks. I just don't work on it often enough, but when I do it sure is a pleasure. My little guy asks me about the car a lot. He loves to sit in it and pretend he's driving. I can't wait to take him for a spin!

I've had to travel for work this week and will be off again next week traveling with family. I hope to get a bit of time on it this weekend but we shall see.the July target is looking tough.I may have to take vacation to get her running.

We've given up on house searching so money is less tight but we are expecting our second child in November. It's a girl. Better get the car running before that excitement.


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