Conversions & Swaps LSX Engines in Non-LSX Vehicles
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'70 Nova LY6/TH400 6.0VVT

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Old 06-29-2013, 11:24 PM
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Is this the MAP connector you are looking for?

http://www.eficonnection.com/eficonnection/ItemDetails.aspx?ItemId=584
Old 06-29-2013, 11:44 PM
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Yes that is the right connector but for not much more I got it from BP Automotive with 8ft of wire and ECM terminals on the other end. Bill was very friendly and had it made and sent to me within 24hrs of placing the order.
Old 06-30-2013, 09:11 PM
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Glad to see you are back to working on the Nova! Now you have the bun in the oven lets get the car back on the road. Congrats to you and the wife!
Old 06-30-2013, 10:15 PM
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Nice build, I'm doing an l92 in my 82 wagon. Great write up also and good luck
Old 07-01-2013, 10:43 AM
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we are expecting our second child in November. It's a girl
Congrats man! I've got faith you'll get her on the road before then. And if you need some help/motivation, I'll try to convince the wifey a 6-hr road trip in the Nova would be doable.
Old 07-01-2013, 10:47 AM
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Clint.. congrad to you and the Wife !.. You just need to find a little more time to get it done !

BC
Old 07-01-2013, 07:07 PM
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Clint,
At least we all know what you've been doing instead of working on your swap. LOL.

Congrats!!!
Old 07-01-2013, 07:32 PM
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Hopefully that's your last baby install so that you have more time for car part installs
Old 07-02-2013, 10:19 AM
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Just read the whole thread and all I can say is WOW!!!

Great job so far! Keep it up
Old 07-08-2013, 12:24 AM
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E38 ECM is mounted to the firewall via rivnuts and vibration isolators from Grainger.







Here is the MAP pigtail from BP Automotive. Old connector for the LY6's original Delphi MAP sensor is on the left. The new connector for the LS3 Bosch sensor is on right. BP did an awesome job with this little pigtail - the crimps look identical to the factory ones and he used the factory-correct color coding. I will have to modify the tune for the different sensor.





Here is the first bit of wiring. This is a wye (or is it a "w") for the throttle body, MAP sensor and MAF sensor. The wires run down the timing cover and I secured them with one wire loom clamp at the top. The loom is Techflex F6 from furryletters on eBay with regular old 2:1 heat shrink to finish the ends. I used non-adhesive harness wrap from PSI Conversions.





I also routed, wrapped and loomed the starter solenoid wire, crank sensor and passenger side knock sensor along this route. I'm not sure yet how I want to secure the loom; I don't like adding the wire loom clamps on fasteners important for oil pan / timing cover sealing.



Below you can see where the wiring will exit the front of the engine down by the alternator. It is nicely hidden behind the water pump. Most of the wires will not need any lengthening or shortening for the way I am routing the wires over the inner fender to the firewall.



I am now working on the driver's side of the engine and came to the first pigtail that needed lengthening - the water temperature sensor. I reused the connector body with new 18ga TXL wire and terminal ends. This connector uses Delphi GT150 female terminals while the E38 uses Molex MX64 terminals.



(below) My Molex MX64 (ECM pin) crimp right vs factory crimp left. The lighting/angle makes my wire/conductor crimp look bowed/banana shaped, but it is straight and in person the crimps look identical.



(below) My GT150 crimp bottom, factory crimp top. I had to make the seal crimp with pliers because my crimpers for Metri-Pack 150 / Weather-Pack 280 terminals doesn't have the cavity for doing the small GT 150 seal crimps. It looks awful but I think it will work fine. I am pretty sure the wire/conductor crimp for the GT 150 is the same as for the Metri-Pack 150 - my wire/conductor crimp looks identical to the factory crimp.



Progress is a good thing. There is something about wiring that's therapeutic for me. I am getting into a wiring zen and can't wait to get back into the garage to do more.

Last edited by -TheBandit-; 07-08-2013 at 09:53 AM.
Old 07-08-2013, 12:56 AM
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Clint
Looks like a good job on the crimping and the looming. I would not worry too much on the messy crimp.. a few of mine were worse than your's and I had no issue with them so far.. as long as they are secured and you are not able to pull the wire out.

Since your using new terminal.. they should stay secure in the casing of the connector. But I usually give the securing tang a little flip upwards to make sure they lock in.

BC
Old 07-08-2013, 06:13 AM
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Clint,
Looks like you are getting pretty close to first start. As BCZEE stated, your crimps look great. Looking forward to your updates!
Old 07-08-2013, 07:36 AM
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It was like Christmas when the new engine arrived last month.
Old 07-08-2013, 09:57 AM
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Thanks everyone for the well wishes on the new (expected) baby. I am desperate to get the car running soon so it will be sorted out before she arrives in November. There is a ton to do for both, so I had better get on top of things.
Old 07-08-2013, 10:21 AM
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If you were closer.. I'd drop by and help.. ! Anyway.. keep plugging away and you will get it done in time !

BC
Old 07-08-2013, 10:47 AM
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Wiring work looks really clean. Are you using the truck harness? How do you remove the pins from the black PCM connectors? Also, what crimpers are those?
Old 07-08-2013, 11:14 AM
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I am using the original LY6 truck harness, but I disassembled it into pigtails and I am modifying/remaking some sections and integrating a Bussman fuse/relay center. I broke it down into the individual pigtails to make custom routing/looming easier.

The pins are easy to remove, but it is difficult to explain. Next time I work on a connector, I will try to take some photos so I can explain. I'll also dig up the info on the ratcheting crimpers. They are service tools specific for crimping these types of terminals.
Old 07-08-2013, 11:41 AM
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Originally Posted by -TheBandit-
I am using the original LY6 truck harness, but I disassembled it into pigtails and I am modifying/remaking some sections and integrating a Bussman fuse/relay center. I broke it down into the individual pigtails to make custom routing/looming easier.
I saw that earlier in your thread. I have the same engine and intake, but my intake is mounted backwards (tube chassis off-road race truck, intake goes inside the cab under the dash to keep the air filter and MAF out of the mud), so I will probably have to do some shortening and lengthening. I like the idea of breaking it down by connector.

The pins are easy to remove, but it is difficult to explain. Next time I work on a connector, I will try to take some photos so I can explain. I'll also dig up the info on the ratcheting crimpers. They are service tools specific for crimping these types of terminals.
That would be great, thank you!
Old 07-08-2013, 04:22 PM
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WOW!

I literally just read this whole thread throughout the 8 hour work day... and even stayed 30 minutes later to finish the last 10 pages

This is a great build and has been put together very well, happy to see that no steps have been skipped also!

Keep up the good work, i'll be checking back in for sure!
Old 07-08-2013, 10:33 PM
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Thanks! Glad you've enjoyed the read. I have gone back and read bits and pieces of it and sometimes forget what I've done. I've read whole sections without any memory of writing them. I guess that's what happens when you spend this much time plucking away at something.


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