'70 Nova LY6/TH400 6.0VVT
#827
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Clint,
At least we all know what you've been doing instead of working on your swap. LOL.
Congrats!!!
At least we all know what you've been doing instead of working on your swap. LOL.
Congrats!!!
#830
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E38 ECM is mounted to the firewall via rivnuts and vibration isolators from Grainger.
![](http://cjnn.xtremefabricator.com/images/LY6swap/ly6swap610.JPG)
![](http://cjnn.xtremefabricator.com/images/LY6swap/ly6swap611.JPG)
![](http://cjnn.xtremefabricator.com/images/LY6swap/ly6swap612.JPG)
Here is the MAP pigtail from BP Automotive. Old connector for the LY6's original Delphi MAP sensor is on the left. The new connector for the LS3 Bosch sensor is on right. BP did an awesome job with this little pigtail - the crimps look identical to the factory ones and he used the factory-correct color coding. I will have to modify the tune for the different sensor.
![](http://cjnn.xtremefabricator.com/images/LY6swap/ly6swap613.JPG)
![](http://cjnn.xtremefabricator.com/images/LY6swap/ly6swap614.JPG)
Here is the first bit of wiring. This is a wye (or is it a "w") for the throttle body, MAP sensor and MAF sensor. The wires run down the timing cover and I secured them with one wire loom clamp at the top. The loom is Techflex F6 from furryletters on eBay with regular old 2:1 heat shrink to finish the ends. I used non-adhesive harness wrap from PSI Conversions.
![](http://cjnn.xtremefabricator.com/images/LY6swap/ly6swap615.JPG)
![](http://cjnn.xtremefabricator.com/images/LY6swap/ly6swap616.JPG)
I also routed, wrapped and loomed the starter solenoid wire, crank sensor and passenger side knock sensor along this route. I'm not sure yet how I want to secure the loom; I don't like adding the wire loom clamps on fasteners important for oil pan / timing cover sealing.
![](http://cjnn.xtremefabricator.com/images/LY6swap/ly6swap617.JPG)
Below you can see where the wiring will exit the front of the engine down by the alternator. It is nicely hidden behind the water pump. Most of the wires will not need any lengthening or shortening for the way I am routing the wires over the inner fender to the firewall.
![](http://cjnn.xtremefabricator.com/images/LY6swap/ly6swap618.JPG)
I am now working on the driver's side of the engine and came to the first pigtail that needed lengthening - the water temperature sensor. I reused the connector body with new 18ga TXL wire and terminal ends. This connector uses Delphi GT150 female terminals while the E38 uses Molex MX64 terminals.
![](http://cjnn.xtremefabricator.com/images/LY6swap/ly6swap619.JPG)
(below) My Molex MX64 (ECM pin) crimp right vs factory crimp left. The lighting/angle makes my wire/conductor crimp look bowed/banana shaped, but it is straight and in person the crimps look identical.
![](http://cjnn.xtremefabricator.com/images/LY6swap/ly6swap620.JPG)
(below) My GT150 crimp bottom, factory crimp top. I had to make the seal crimp with pliers because my crimpers for Metri-Pack 150 / Weather-Pack 280 terminals doesn't have the cavity for doing the small GT 150 seal crimps. It looks awful but I think it will work fine. I am pretty sure the wire/conductor crimp for the GT 150 is the same as for the Metri-Pack 150 - my wire/conductor crimp looks identical to the factory crimp.
![](http://cjnn.xtremefabricator.com/images/LY6swap/ly6swap621.JPG)
Progress is a good thing. There is something about wiring that's therapeutic for me. I am getting into a wiring zen and can't wait to get back into the garage to do more.
Here is the MAP pigtail from BP Automotive. Old connector for the LY6's original Delphi MAP sensor is on the left. The new connector for the LS3 Bosch sensor is on right. BP did an awesome job with this little pigtail - the crimps look identical to the factory ones and he used the factory-correct color coding. I will have to modify the tune for the different sensor.
Here is the first bit of wiring. This is a wye (or is it a "w") for the throttle body, MAP sensor and MAF sensor. The wires run down the timing cover and I secured them with one wire loom clamp at the top. The loom is Techflex F6 from furryletters on eBay with regular old 2:1 heat shrink to finish the ends. I used non-adhesive harness wrap from PSI Conversions.
I also routed, wrapped and loomed the starter solenoid wire, crank sensor and passenger side knock sensor along this route. I'm not sure yet how I want to secure the loom; I don't like adding the wire loom clamps on fasteners important for oil pan / timing cover sealing.
Below you can see where the wiring will exit the front of the engine down by the alternator. It is nicely hidden behind the water pump. Most of the wires will not need any lengthening or shortening for the way I am routing the wires over the inner fender to the firewall.
I am now working on the driver's side of the engine and came to the first pigtail that needed lengthening - the water temperature sensor. I reused the connector body with new 18ga TXL wire and terminal ends. This connector uses Delphi GT150 female terminals while the E38 uses Molex MX64 terminals.
(below) My Molex MX64 (ECM pin) crimp right vs factory crimp left. The lighting/angle makes my wire/conductor crimp look bowed/banana shaped, but it is straight and in person the crimps look identical.
(below) My GT150 crimp bottom, factory crimp top. I had to make the seal crimp with pliers because my crimpers for Metri-Pack 150 / Weather-Pack 280 terminals doesn't have the cavity for doing the small GT 150 seal crimps. It looks awful but I think it will work fine. I am pretty sure the wire/conductor crimp for the GT 150 is the same as for the Metri-Pack 150 - my wire/conductor crimp looks identical to the factory crimp.
Progress is a good thing. There is something about wiring that's therapeutic for me. I am getting into a wiring zen and can't wait to get back into the garage to do more.
Last edited by -TheBandit-; 07-08-2013 at 09:53 AM.
#831
TECH Senior Member
iTrader: (12)
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Clint
Looks like a good job on the crimping and the looming. I would not worry too much on the messy crimp.. a few of mine were worse than your's and I had no issue with them so far.. as long as they are secured and you are not able to pull the wire out.
Since your using new terminal.. they should stay secure in the casing of the connector. But I usually give the securing tang a little flip upwards to make sure they lock in.
BC
Looks like a good job on the crimping and the looming. I would not worry too much on the messy crimp.. a few of mine were worse than your's and I had no issue with them so far.. as long as they are secured and you are not able to pull the wire out.
Since your using new terminal.. they should stay secure in the casing of the connector. But I usually give the securing tang a little flip upwards to make sure they lock in.
BC
#832
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Clint,
Looks like you are getting pretty close to first start. As BCZEE stated, your crimps look great. Looking forward to your updates!
Looks like you are getting pretty close to first start. As BCZEE stated, your crimps look great. Looking forward to your updates!
#837
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I am using the original LY6 truck harness, but I disassembled it into pigtails and I am modifying/remaking some sections and integrating a Bussman fuse/relay center. I broke it down into the individual pigtails to make custom routing/looming easier.
The pins are easy to remove, but it is difficult to explain. Next time I work on a connector, I will try to take some photos so I can explain. I'll also dig up the info on the ratcheting crimpers. They are service tools specific for crimping these types of terminals.
The pins are easy to remove, but it is difficult to explain. Next time I work on a connector, I will try to take some photos so I can explain. I'll also dig up the info on the ratcheting crimpers. They are service tools specific for crimping these types of terminals.
#838
On The Tree
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Join Date: Apr 2009
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The pins are easy to remove, but it is difficult to explain. Next time I work on a connector, I will try to take some photos so I can explain. I'll also dig up the info on the ratcheting crimpers. They are service tools specific for crimping these types of terminals.
#839
Launching!
iTrader: (1)
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WOW!
I literally just read this whole thread throughout the 8 hour work day... and even stayed 30 minutes later to finish the last 10 pages![Grin](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_grin.gif)
This is a great build and has been put together very well, happy to see that no steps have been skipped also!
Keep up the good work, i'll be checking back in for sure!
I literally just read this whole thread throughout the 8 hour work day... and even stayed 30 minutes later to finish the last 10 pages
![Grin](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_grin.gif)
This is a great build and has been put together very well, happy to see that no steps have been skipped also!
Keep up the good work, i'll be checking back in for sure!
#840
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Thanks! Glad you've enjoyed the read. I have gone back and read bits and pieces of it and sometimes forget what I've done. I've read whole sections without any memory of writing them. I guess that's what happens when you spend this much time plucking away at something.