bczee

iTrader: (12)

I didn't think you would want to lower the tank, but wanted to see what you would come up with.

I plan to notch or put a try in like something like what you have going now.

Did you see tanksinc has a tray, but at $45, I'll make my own...LOL

BC

tsnow678

iTrader: (3)

If you want to replicate the baffling from Tanks Inc. it is rather simple. It is a rectangular box almost as tall as the tank itself with two small (5/16"-3/8") holes in it. One in the bottom and one at the lower rear. If memory serves me correctly that is. I can do a little digging if you were interested.

tsnow678

iTrader: (3)

Any updates?

-TheBandit-

iTrader: (1)

Sorta not really. I finished fitting the baking pan recess, cut the mounting for the PA-4, tacked on the mounting ring, and transferred the sending unit mounting ring over. I did a bunch of practice welding on scrap and decided I want to get it TIG welded because it's just too easy to burn through, even with 0.023 wire and the MIG on it's lowest heat. I can get good welds most of the time, but if there is even the slightest hair of a gap when I pull the trigger, I may as well be wielding a plasma cutter.

The baking pan was a bad idea - the metal is thin, I think 24 gauge which is questionable even if it's welded successfully. The tank itself is 22 gauge. I am going to take it to a local welder and see what he thinks. He'll charge $95/hr and this will probably be a 30min job for him, although it may just be too thin in which case I would need to start over on the recess.

I'm also considering having Tanks Inc modify a new tank and send it to me. They charge $160 to have a local welder modify a new tank, including their prefabbed recess and a pressure test. The cost of a new tank is $150, so once I factor in shipping it'd be about $350 to go that route.

I really shoulda just opened up the trunk and mounted a cover over it. The first install I did wasn't too bad.

tsnow678

iTrader: (3)

When I broke the metal for my tank recess I included a lip to tuck under the tank so I would have something to weld to rather than trying to butt weld the thin metal edges. Not sure how wide or long you made your recess but a 9x9 brownie pan has a rolled edge and would have worked out on mine. I had already broke my own metal so it was too late for me. Sorry your having troubles! Tanks Inc ought to go ahead and market the fuel injection tanks for the novas. I love the one I bought from them for my Camaro. I checked on a Nova tank from them for another LS1Tech'r and Tanks said they were working on it but they wouldnt be available for a while. You could fuel cell it for the time being until something better comes along. Just a thought. Best of luck to ya hope to hear this beast fire up soon.

KY Nova

iTrader: (1)

Tsnow had a good point in bending a tab (.325") would be more than enough and if your learning to weld, make it out of thicker gauge metal(16gauge). When you start to weld, keep you wire on thicker piece and just touck the edge of the thin. If that makes since. That keeps the majority of the heat in the thicker metal. Do small stitch welds here and there to allow the metal to cool.


Hope that helps and makes since
Allen

douglee25

Agreed.

Make sure the metal is clean too. That will help the arc strike quicker. Sometimes turning the heat up actually helps vs. keeping it lower. This allows you to strike quick with a small tack and move on. Keep moving around the workpiece and allow it to cool sufficiently.

Good luck.

Doug

Turtle Bite

iTrader: (3)

If you are willing to modify the filler neck you can use an otherwise off the shelf tanks inc 68 camaro fuel injection tank. Just another option.

http://www.stevesnovasite.com/forums...=214403&page=3

-TheBandit-

iTrader: (1)

Thanks for the ideas guys. I took the tank and the baking pan recess to the welder. He confirmed the material is just too thin. He didn't want to attempt welding it. I definitely should have known better.

I am not sure which path I'll take yet, but I appreciate the input.

MisterD

Hey Bandit, might I suggest Vaporworx set up? CRAZY expensive I know but after researching a bunch I felt most comfortable with splurging a little on the tank so as not to starve the car for fuel. Another more budget friendly option could be the Aeromotive/Tanks Inc. tank or you could always use the Vaporworx retrofit kit. I just got my tank and pump last week and it looks great! I also spoke with Carl Saturday and he was very helpful clarifying a few questions I had regarding wiring, running lines and fuel level sensor. I really struggled for a long time about my tank options but I'm happy I went vaporworx. I would also seriously consider the Aeromotive/Tanks Inc. set up as it seems to be working good for others...Best of luck with this.

-TheBandit-

iTrader: (1)

I am in a tough spot at the moment with finances. We've decided to buy a new home, so spending has to be minimum to keep cash available for down payment, closing, and moving costs. Work on the car may also have to stop when we find something, putting my July target in jeopardy. I have about a $1k laundry list of things I need to buy still, so we'll see how I squeeze that in, but the tank is not a part of that budget so I am going to have to be creative. I am thinking about replicating the baking pan shape or a square cornered version out of thicker material and taking that to the welder.

MisterD

yeah I completely understand. We were in the same boat buying a house last year. This is exactly why my camaro project slowed down BIG TIME. And buying a house in California is not a small purchase, lol. Anyway, congratulations on the soon to be new home and keep up the good work on the nova, she will be running sooner than you know it.

douglee25

Could you just go to lowes and buy some 16 ga steel and weld up a pan like the baking deal? You can weld that yourself with a MIG without issue.

Doug

frojoe

iTrader: (10)

Yea I'd recommend getting some 16ga steel and bending it up in your vice. I have a vice with 4"-wide jaws but used some scrap aluminum & steel blocks to widen the bending surface to the 8-10" length I needed for my tank recess..

jlyke

anybody know anything about a 4l60e

frojoe

iTrader: (10)

Search Results: "4L60E"

Turtle Bite

iTrader: (3)

I copied all the information in your P/S hose post to find the parts for my car since I am also using the 2010 camaro pump, saved me some time.

Another question for you. On your swaybar mount spacers, they were only necessary because of interferenace with the low mount A/C, correct? I came to the realization that my car does not have a stabilizer at all and I am hoping it is going to clear the truck balancer.

-TheBandit-

iTrader: (1)

Glad the info could help! Yes, the swaybar is only spaced down for AC bracket/tensioner clearance. The truck balancer should clear fine without any spacers.

-TheBandit-

iTrader: (1)

I'm almost embarrassed to admit I bought a Harbor Freight portable band saw and cobbled a stand for it out of scrap material. I drilled through the cast aluminum body and bolted it to angle iron, welded to a piece of square tube. I am not sure yet if I want to build out the rest of the stand because it works just fine in the vise and I can still carry it around without unbolting this part. We'll see. I would like to add a larger cutting table to it before using it for anything thicker/larger than sheet.



I swapped in a Lennox 18tpi blade and tackled my first project - a bracket to hold the Bussman fuse/relay center.



I bent the bracket using a combination of my press brake for some bends and the vise for others. I wish I had a box/pan brake for this kind of work. The bracket places the fuse holder about 1/2" away from the mounting surface to give room for fingers to remove the lid. It is mounted to the core support using some rivnuts. It still needs to be cleaned up and painted and I need to do some final trimming around the terminals to give room for wiring.







I also welded the v-band flanges onto the headers. Here is one of them. I used my Millermatic 180 at about 3.5/50 with 0.023 wire. The collector is 16 gauge. It could have used a little more heat. I used 3 tacks evenly spaced followed by continuous welds from tack to tack. Not perfect, but should do the job. I put a male one one header and a female on the other so if I ever have to relpace the exhaust I will only need to buy one v-band assembly. I think I will coat over this with VHT.





I also picked up some reducers, o2 bungs, tube, and a mandrel u-bend for reworking the exhaust. Unfortunately the way things were bent up for the 350 won't work for the LS, so I am going to redo most of it. It is going to be 2-1/2" back to the old 2-chamber Flowmasters w/ turndowns. Eventually I want to rebuild it with a better set of mufflers and go over the axle out to the back, but I think this will be good for now.

I bought 3 o2 bungs. The engine requires one per side, but I want to put a 3rd in for tuning. Any ideas on where it should be placed? Is there a prefered side and how far from the other O2s should it be? The sensors are large so I don't have a lot of options for mounting them. My current plan is to put them just behind the v-bands mounted horizontally to fit in the area in front of the transmission pan. Are wideband O2s any larger than the factory heated O2s?

The rest of the project has seen some progress, just nothing worth photographing. I modified the passenger side coil spring adjuster and now have both sides of the suspension fully assembled sans shocks and swaybar endlinks. It's nice to know i could put the wheels on it and roll it around again if needed (it's been on jackstands two years now). The suspension has seen a lot of changes: I did the Gouldstrand modification the "hard way" for camber gain, added a Hellwig 1-1/4" hollow swaybar, much stiffer AFCO 600lb/in springs with coil adjusters for ride height, and Global West upper control arms to achieve more caster.

Other odd jobs: I trimmed the intake manifold cover to give more clearance at the back for spark plug wiring, rounded off and painted the transmission dipstick mounting tab, swapped a bad tie rod end, and torqued some miscellaneous fasteners. I have also been collecting odds and ends parts for doing the transmission cooling lines and wiring, etc. Should be plowing through more progress soon.

douglee25

I think for the 02's you want them mounted relatively close to the header for a good reading. Too far past that and the readings are inaccurate.

Doug