-TheBandit-

iTrader: (1)

Went to the junkyard today in search of a 940 or similar vintage Volvo and found one



Here was the loot I pulled off it. A dual speed electric fan. This has the same motor as the Taurus fan, but the mounting and shroud it comes with is simple enough you could adapt it to just about anything.



The other great thing about this an is this little relay pack. Everything you need is here and it's a simple four wire hookup (power, ground, high speed, low speed). It takes a ground signal at the high or low speed wires which is what the ECM supplies so this should be simple to integrate.



It took about 20 minutes to trim the shroud in a few places, drill a couple of holes, and mount it.











I tested it out and it seems to move a good amount of air - it feels windier in there than with my old SB mechanical fan. I got turned on to this fan by this thread: http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/gener...plication.html

And here is another little tidbit - Russel 611203 EFI o-ring direct to AN hose fitting (3/8 to -6 hose). I had to special order this because no one seems to carry it yet, but Russel does have it.

douglee25

Looks clean!

Doug

-TheBandit-

iTrader: (1)

Thanks Doug!

I bought 3/8 steel tube for fuel lines and it came rolled up in about a 15" diameter coil. I walked it out into the garage floor and tweaked it by hand, but that only got it so straight. I tried rolling it between a board and a concrete floor but that didn't do much either. So I came up with this: vise jaw tube straightener







I bought 3 pairs of plastic sliding door rollers from the hardware store and some grade 8 1/4" bolts. They had metal rollers, but all of them are sized for maybe 1/4" track, so they don't fit 3/8" OD tube very well. I figured the plastic rollers would flare out some and they did. I bolted the rollers on 2.75" spacing to a foot long piece of angle iron (1" as it so happens). Then I attached that in place of my vise jaws. It worked great!

At first I wasn't sure if it was going to do much. My first pulls back and forth hardly changed the tube. The key seemed to be putting enough pressure on the rollers to yield the tube. It's not easy to pull the tube through when there's enough pressure, but it can be done and it worked great once I tightened the vise enough. I think I'll head back and buy some more rollers - I can see where that would really help. I drilled the angle for 3 more, for a total of 9 (4 one one side, 5 on the other) if I fill it out.

1961ba427

iTrader: (26)

That's a brilliant idea!

cruisin'73

iTrader: (8)

Glad you found a fan that works for you. In the future I may have to find one of those 2 speed controls and upgrade the design of my fan control system.

Excellent work on the tubing straightener! I spend probably 1/2 the time just trying to get the damn tube straight! This summer I made a straightener, but maderollers from metal pulleys without bearings and the pulleys just oblonged the tube and mared the hell out of the surface. I did not think that closet rollers would be up to the abuse. I think I will be making a REV.2 straightener this evening! Thanks for the details!

douglee25

Clever job with the straightener.

Way to think outside the box.

Doug

-TheBandit-

iTrader: (1)

Thanks guys. I'm happy with the results and had fun putting it together.

I got a good start on the fuel line today











Doesn't look like much yet, but took me a while to figure out how I wanted to run it and gather the fittings. The flexible line is Fragola -6 fuel line with Russel ends. It runs to a 45 degree steel JIC -6 bulkhead fitting. I welded a tab to the frame to hold it. From there is (straightened) ni-tern coated steel 3/8" hardline which will run along the driver's side under the body. It will follow the route and mounting points of the original 5/16" charcoal canister line and meet up with a Corvette filter/pressure regulator out back.

Jimbo1367

Great work Clint. Where did you get the steel bulkhead fitting? Is the Fragola hose ptfe(?) lined? Shouldn't be much longer until initial start, no?

hookemdevils22

iTrader: (12)

helluva job clint! much cleaner than mine!

bczee

iTrader: (12)

Nice going on the latest updates.. great idea on the tube tool...

I haven't touched my Nova project in 2 months.. Finally replaced the Trans in my Tahoe and now working on replacing the Oil pan on my Chevelle that I bottomed out and cracked it.. so, hopefully I'll get back on the Nova in a month or so..

BC

Jimbo1367

Those damn engineers always have to be the ones with the good ideas. LOL.

tsnow678

iTrader: (3)

Awesome job on scavenging the relay pack! I will definately start looking for this very item now. My tuner suggested that I wire my dual fans to operate simultaneously on high and low. That pack ought to help keep the wiring to a minimum. Thanks

The fuel lines look great! Good job on fabbing the straightener.

Target date for the initial firing? This weekend?

-TheBandit-

iTrader: (1)

I got the bulkhead fitting, tube nuts and tube sleeves from the local hydraulic supply. They are steel JIC fittings.

The Fragola hose is not PTFE (teflon) lined. It will be easy to swap if I have issue.

Thanks man, but you gave me the starting point and inspiration I needed. I was on the fence between running it on this side or the passenger side w/ flipped rail.

All great progress. There's no hurry on the Nova when you already have a hell of a swap car to drive!

If you're referring to me, here's some evidence to the contrary:
- Got water in my engine while cleaning it and didn't bother checking the pan to make sure nothing was inside after hosing it down. Let it sit for months until discovering a rust bomb had gone off in the bottom end
- Soaked my pistons in simple green, despite an explicit warning on the label not to use for aluminum. Ruined my pistons!

The fuel lines look great! Good job on fabbing the straightener.[/quote]

Thanks Tony. The relay pack is a nice piece and you can find new replacements if needed. I assume the relay pack includes a resistor to generate the two speeds. It should produce dual speeds for your setup too if you run both fans in parallel off the output. The same relay pack is used in many different Volvos through the 90s and early 2000s from what i understand.

I am still targeting July to have it running. The list is getting shorter, but there are a lot of details yet to do. The big buckets are fuel, exhaust, wiring.

homegrown32

I don't know if this has been covered yet, But It looks like you are planning on using the truck throttle body on the car intake. I discovered this fall It did not work for me. I got check engine codes (throtle position / performance error or something like that) and needed to change to a car throttle body.

bigmandengo

iTrader: (21)

Which ecm are you using? The car or truck ecm?

Jimbo1367

IIRC. truck

bigmandengo

iTrader: (21)

I cant imagine it would be an issue if the ecm and throttle body are from the same vehicle.

homegrown32

I am using the e38 from the truck. I have a Spearteck wiring harness and program. The motor had DOD and VVT and I removed them.

futureuser

iTrader: (1)

I am running the van LY6 throttle body with no issues. Nice job Clint!

-TheBandit-

iTrader: (1)

Here is where the fuel line connects to the Corvette FPR. I have not mounted the FPR yet; I just need to drill and tap or rivnut a hole in the frame. You can see the previous owner relocated the shocks and plated over a portion of the frame where this will mount. I'm not sure what this area looks like on a stock Nova.



I started working on putting the fuel pump in tank. I am using a Tanks Inc PA-4 setup which includes a Walbro 340 (255lph) pump, hanger, and tray. Before I show you how I put it in, here's a preview of what it looks like:



Here is where I started with the hanger mounted upside down.



I positioned it so it would position the pump in the deepest part of the tank. This is actually toward the front of the tank, near the original pickup.



I made a hole in my tank initially using a jigsaw, but I switched over to hand shears because I ran into some internal baffling I wasn't expecting that threw the jigsaw all over the place. I did my best to flatten the ribbed sections of the sheet by clamping it between some thick metal plate using c-clamps, but that only did so much. Then I drilled a hole pattern and eventually "spot" welded the backup flange to the tank by drilling holes from the top and filling them with weld. I went over that with a flapper wheel and this is the UGLY, but functional hole I was left with.



One of the things I was really hoping to accomplish by positioning the pump here was to be able to use a factory sending unit for the fuel level. Here you can see the inside of the tray through where the original sending unit mounts.



I cut off the tubing from the old sender and drilled a hole so I could run a draw string to actuate the float. Then I put the sender in and confirmed it could move unobstructed. This sender wasn't working right anyway, so I plan to replace it.





Once the mounting was figured out, I assembled the hanger, pump, pickup, etc. I had to cut the mounting bracket down pretty far. The tank is about 7" tall, but if you look closely you'll see I ended up angling the tray about 5 degrees to match the slope of the tank. I am not sure what to think about routing the return line directly next to the pump like Tanks Inc has it setup.



And here it is, just about ready for final install. I need to clean the tank out really well before I finish it up, but you get the idea.



I was originally planning to recess this into the tank to provide fitting clearance, but I have another idea I'm going to try. Still plenty of work to do...