bczee

iTrader: (12)

Clint I have the same pump setup but have not started to do the job yet.. is the top of the Sender unit (fitting) going to clea the truck floor ?.. have you mounted the tank up yet..

I was planning to notch the top down 1/2" to 1" to make sure it cleared, I was also thinking of sumping the area under the pickup down and to flatten he floor of the tank down 1" to avoid the angle that you had to angle your tray for.

BC

-TheBandit-

iTrader: (1)

It will not fit under the trunk like this. The fittings stick up about an inch in an area where there is probably only about 1/4" of clearance. I am going to try making spacers to lower the tank.

tsnow678

iTrader: (3)

You will be firing this one up before the end of March!

Are you going to use the vent off of the fuel pump hanger? I originally was on mine but opted to use a vented gas cap. I have ran it this way for just about a year now without any issues. I wasn't too fond of fuel vapors escaping near the tail pipes.

Are you going to add any baffling to the inside of the tank? Have you seen the new Aeromotive setup? They use foam as baffling.

douglee25

You will be fine with the return like that.

Most of them are setup that way.

Doug

hookemdevils22

iTrader: (12)

I plumbed my return to the vent nipple on the driver's side. When I initially did the swap though, I plumbed the return to one of the outlets. It didn't seem to affect anything. My only concern would be long-term reliability of the pump from local aeration (read: cavitation).

frojoe

iTrader: (10)

You're making some seriously good progress.. nicely done!

-TheBandit-

iTrader: (1)

If you look at Chicago TDP's PA-4 install here it doesn't look like he angled his tray. I suppose if you centered it really well over the "V" of the tank or put it more forward, you could mount it flat with minimal dead space underneath. I am not too concerned with the angled tray.

Normal people would. I am way slower than normal people.

Yes. The vent has a rollover check valve. I plan to run a hose from that barb back to the filler neck and have it vent somewhere near the license plate area.

No, not now at least. I am not sure how well this setup will work, but it was relatively painless to install and I can make changes down the road if I need to.

I share the same concern. I was thinking however that keeping the fuel coming back into the tray will prevent the tray from being emptied into the return elsewhere on the tank, so from that point of view it could be beneficial. I think the OEM returns are done in a similar manner.

Thanks Joe!

Chicago TDP

iTrader: (3)

My tray lays flat on the bottom...took a lot of time to get the overall length right but the tray is basically pressed onto the bottom as you bolt down the cover plate.

I have run the car almost dry and not had an issue...the return line is also feeding the tray so I think that helps a little.

My other nova that I am building is getting a cable driven pump from a sumped tank...

tsnow678

iTrader: (3)

Give yourself a little credit! You have to be the most persistent individual I know.

-TheBandit-

iTrader: (1)

Where/how should I run the fuel pump wiring? Through the interior somehow or along the frame under the car?

douglee25

Do you plan on relocating the battery to the rear of the car?

Either way, I'd probably run the wiring up into the car and keep it out of the elements. If you relocate the battery to the rear, you could have a short run with some thicker gauge wiring and wire the relay right there as well.

Doug

-TheBandit-

iTrader: (1)

I don't plan to relocate the battery, so it will probably be thick gauge wire from the relay center at the front back to rear. I'm also not sure if I need to run a dedicated ground from the front as well or if I should just ground it locally at the back where the sending unit was originally grounded. I assume the tank needs to be grounded locally regardless to prevent static discharge so I'm not sure what good an additional ground to the front would do.

douglee25

I've always grounded locally to the frame myself. Never an issue.

Doug

hookemdevils22

iTrader: (12)

I ran mine inside the car. Relay is in the Ford relay box I installed. I grounded locally to the rear subframe.

And I can assure you that my relatively long build would've taken even longer had I had a rugrat or two to look after. I've barely made any progress on my LEDs over the past month or two, and that's nowhere near as involved as what you're doing.

bczee

iTrader: (12)

I ran mine inside the car, along the kick panel, under the carpet and into the trunk. I then ran it to the back where the light harness goes through the Gromet.

the relay is above the wheel well support. I could have put the relay a bit closer to the pump. But I wanted to be able to services it without going under the car in bad weather.

On my Chevelle, the relay is just behind the bumper on the cross member support.

On another subject. Are any of you guys relocating the rear shock. I have looked at a few, POL, SRD, etc.. SRD seem nice, but it will not work with my Hotchkis swap bar mounts. I think the POL might clear. Also, to clear the 4th Gen Brakes and also use a larger wheel/tire combo... you guys have any recommendation ? thanks, sorry about the highjack, but I figure you X guys are all here anyway.. ..


BC

oldngray

iTrader: (9)

[QUOTE=-TheBandit-;17211349]Where/how should I run the fuel pump wiring? Through the interior somehow or along the frame under the car?[/QUOte You will need at least a 10ga (min) from the battery to a circuit breaker, that will in turn feed the relay, use your fuel pump circuit off your computer to trigger the relay, this is one of the many ways to run it and not lose amps on the long run...

tsnow678

iTrader: (3)

I also ran my wiring inside. My relay is up front with the other related to the LS swap. I used a 10 gauge wire, came through the passenger side of the firewall in front of the kick panel, along the sill plate to the inside under the metal guards, and then out of the interior through the metal panel behind the rear seat. I grounded locally as well. It has been like this since 1993 without incident.

tsnow678

iTrader: (3)

If your interested, go to my thread and look at post #1707, fourth picture down and you can see where my wire comes through the flooring. There is a grommet in the sheetmetal and I have the wire secured to the frame rail.

-TheBandit-

iTrader: (1)

Thanks guys for the ideas. I'll run it on the inside from a relay up front.

Anything worth doing right is worth redoing. I couldn't bring myself to cutting the trunk floor and decided lowering the tank wasn't going to work out, so I am starting over with recessing the pump. I bought a pre-fabbed recess tray from the local department store - $5 and it's teflon coated.







Little more work to do. It's a start though.

douglee25

I have to laugh at that one!

Doug