futureuser

iTrader: (1)

I needed to hear it run to gain the motivation to finish the trans and power steering lines. I'm not crazy about plumbing. Yes, I have a ways to go before it really runs. It gave me a good shot in the arm for the home stretch.

tsnow678

iTrader: (3)

I was referring to the video of the old engine. The first part of the video you hear the engine running but no belts were moving.

futureuser

iTrader: (1)

I took a step back and removed my wiring harness for wrapping. It only took a couple hours. For some reason, I listened to someone who told me to put the wrapping on after installing it. Impossible. I'm glad I wired it up and started it before. I feel alot better knowing that it will run. Painless sent their harness unwrapped and did not include wrap. When I bought it, they had a special that included their seperate powerbraid wrap for free that retails for an outrageous $200, so that's what's going on.

Now where to mount the boxes. I've already moved the battery to the trunk so I have lots of options. Really I just need to decide inside or outside for now. With vintage ac going in, I won't have too much room inside. Just a note, Tsnow, if you read this, my local a/c shop, maybe the best in Atlanta, does not recommend vintage, because of it's low capacity. They recommend more of a factory setup. My car had no factory a/c so it made sense to me.



I need to fugure out what rad to use. I think the entropy like bmf is using is the easiest, but at 700 not cheap. Or I could try to use my stock rad and throw on a new set of fans, although with it being 18 years old, probably a dumb place to take a short cut. I am also tempted to use the same dual pass rad as tsnow, but then I would have to build brackets and add a tranny cooler and worry about steam vent. I don't know, someone tell me what to do. I'm open to suggestions

tsnow678

iTrader: (3)

If you have the money buy the Entropy if you need to save money buy the Speedway. But if the radiator you have is ok and doesnt leak I might go with it until I got what I wanted. You can take it to a radiator shop and have them boil it out and resolder it for a reasonable price. Then all your out is a hose and a repair. I am sure the radiator you have wasnt driven everyday for the past 18 years, correct?

About the a/c, I had the factory a/c stuff but am way past that point now. I will have to buy the Vintage or equivalent. I appreciate the info though.

futureuser

iTrader: (1)

I street raced the car after high school and then daily drove it in college. The car was stored for over 10 years after that, but I did keep it running. The old rad doesn't leak and does work. Maybe I'll have it cleaned out and buy these:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...K%3AMEWAX%3AIT

Steve68

iTrader: (23)

I want to let you guys know that the AFCO LS swap radiator is in the $450 range, which I'm sure thats what Speedway sells, but the LS swap rad is a direct bolt in,

I like the Entrophy but I'm not a fan of the fans he using,
I do have a Crown Vic fan, with wiring, got it cheap, I could go to the GSE shop at work and bend out a shroud, choices,

futureuser

iTrader: (1)

Thanks. Here's the link:

http://www.speedwaymotors.com/AFCO-1...ors,25245.html

It is 492 w/o trans cooler and 556 with. So for me it would be close to the price of the entropy by the time it was said and done.

Back in '92 I had my rad widened to a 24 inch 3 row core. I'm thinking if it will clean up, and I put those 4000 cfm fans (24 inch wide)that I listed above, this should keep it cool. It won't be pretty, but look at the rest of the car. Also painless has already provided all the wiring for dual fans so I don't have to spend extra on a harness.

In a mild climate I used this setup with a celebrity 2.8 fan and 12:1 360sbc and it kept cool.

Steve68

iTrader: (23)

Thats the one I was talking about, I looked at the ebay add, nice fans but the Crown Vic cop car fan blows the same CFM, fyi, and I think you might be able to find it cheaper, but thats your call,

futureuser

iTrader: (1)

Thanks, I'll check that out.

futureuser

iTrader: (1)

I picked up an 02 z28 oil filler tube and it won't fit this valve cover. The tabs seem to be in the wrong place. I thought these valve covers were all the same. Can anyone verify if mine is different and if so, which oil filler tube or cap will work?

futureuser

iTrader: (1)

It looks like if I grind off the right tab, the oil cap can go straight into the valve cover.

futureuser

iTrader: (1)

I have no clearance to mount the oil pressure sender above the oil filter at the oil line outlet because of the headers, so off came the intake so that I could mount it in place of the factory unit. The dakota gauge has a low oil pressure warning that can be set between 5-30psi.



sending units top and bottom with 1/8 npt to 16mm adaptor for oil and 1/8 npt to 12mm adaptor for water included in kit:









The hardest part was threading in the allen screws from behind the bezel into the back of the gauge casing and then breaking this:





My numb nuts broke the 1/8npt to 12mm adaptor and now it's stuck in the cylinder head. It is very thin and doesn't torque nearly as much as the factory sender. Is there a tool to get this out like a reverse thread tap?

lizeec

iTrader: (57)

I did the same to my adaptor, it sure doesnt take much to break that brass adaptor, I used my Snap On square fluted EZ Outs and it came out very easily, what sucked was having to order another one and pay ridiculous shipping for such a small part and also having to wait another week for it to arrive.

scatillac

iTrader: (12)

A 2000 LS1 Camaro radiator and fan setup will fit if you fab up the mounts.

The stock (2000) lower hose works and the upper hose is one from NAPA that had to be cut for the sender adapter.

Photos attached show portions of the radiator assembly and hoses from different angles.

Cooling shouldn't be an issue as the Camaro radiator is larger than the one in my V and it handles the job easily with a 180* t-stat.

futureuser

iTrader: (1)

Thanks. Makes me feel better that I'm not the only one. 'Still feel like a dumb ***.

Hey check this out, when I was working on the car today I saw this tiny chip of paint and scraped some more off. I think I found the original burnished brown. It's more like a metallic bronze. I think it was red too. Sick to think it's been green most of it's life. I'm eventually going back to the burnished brown with the white hockey sticks and white houndstooth which is how it came.

futureuser

iTrader: (1)

Thanks for the idea. I'll have to price that setup. It looks like your oil filler tube worked. I guess the ls1 valve cover isn't exactly the same as LY6. Nice install, btw.

tsnow678

iTrader: (3)

Is there a reason why you want to run the tube? I done away with the tube and am just using the cap. I didnt know if you plan on running the engine covers if not I would eliminate the tube altogether.

[IMG][/IMG]

tsnow678

iTrader: (3)

I agree with lizeec on the brass removal. Get a set of easy outs or a square file and ease it back out. You can buy the fitting from Nooks and Tranny off of Ebay or go directly to Autometer and get one.

I do have a question for you on the mass air. Did you buy an adapter to mount it? I looked at mine today and the rubber mount attached the MAF is on the wrong side for air flow. I was going to just stick it on to test fire the engine but will end up buying the proper piping and finish the air intake prior to running it.

Goldhawg

iTrader: (7)

I have the same problem w/my 2010 L96; filler tube knocked off in the wreck. Guess I'll have to go to dealer. I tried several at the parts store for 6.0Ls but they all have room for only one indention...

futureuser

iTrader: (1)

My caps (van and fbody) are identical and won't fit into my valve cover. Do you mind checking yours to see if it is the same?