LQ4/T56 into my 69 Camaro
06-28-2011, 11:39 AM
#741
You are not going to believe this, but Lowe's here carries an amazing selection of heat shrink for very reasonable prices. A lot cheaper than the auto parts stores. It's not too bad a product either. It's no where near the Motorcraft shrink and seal stuff, but it's very good and as good, if not better, as I've seen from Autozone, etc.
06-28-2011, 01:32 PM
#742
Lowes goodies Speaking of Lowes, I think I read on one of the builds that someone found something similar to Dynamat for sound and heat insulation there. Not sure who or where I read it, but it was supposed to be a lot cheaper. Nice to know that you can save money on some of these things.
Bill B.
Bill B.
06-28-2011, 07:19 PM
#744
Speaking of Lowes, I think I read on one of the builds that someone found something similar to Dynamat for sound and heat insulation there. Not sure who or where I read it, but it was supposed to be a lot cheaper. Nice to know that you can save money on some of these things.
Bill B.
Bill B.
06-28-2011, 11:00 PM
#747
Here is a before and after shot of the wiring harness. The after is when I finished extended the harness to locate it in the fender.
None of the wires are in the wire loom yet. I am waiting till it fires up before I make everything nice and tidy. I did locate everything to be free of moving parts and heat.
[IMG]
[/IMG]
None of the wires are in the wire loom yet. I am waiting till it fires up before I make everything nice and tidy. I did locate everything to be free of moving parts and heat.
[IMG]
[/IMG] 
[/IMG] 
[/IMG]
06-28-2011, 11:53 PM
#750
This is the extended blue and green plugs. I added 21" to the blue and 23" to the green since the green will be further away than the blue. I staggered the connections from the blue to green to keep the bulk down to a minimum in case I decide to use the 1" split loom versus 2 runs of 3/4" loom. I was going to run the harness over the inner fender and hide the majority of wires but giving that space is reserved for heater hoses and A/C lines I didnt want to take a chance of future problems. Tomorrow will be a day of mounting the PCM and start wiring in the engine and lighting harness back into the car. I still need to bolt on the starter and wire it in also. Then onto the fuel pump and then its a turn of key and see if itd gonna run.
[IMG]
[/IMG]
[IMG]
[/IMG]
06-29-2011, 01:06 PM
#752
On The Tree
iTrader: (2)
Join Date: May 2011
Location: Ponchatoula, La.
Posts: 112
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Man it looks great, I was getting nervous about doing my own harness when I saw the pic of the bird nest. But man it came out great, I can't wait to start on mine!
06-29-2011, 04:31 PM
#753
1) It makes for cleaner wiring to wire each plug (green-blue or red-blue)individually but it gets confusing trying to locate each sensors wire and location. The sensors share both of these plugs and makes for a pain.
2) buy a labeler and label each wire to its plug and location on that plug. I bought my labeler at Walmart. You will have quite a few wires that are the same color and gauge so labeling is a must unless you are good at knowing exactly where they go.
3) Buy some of the P-clamps with the rubber insulator and hang them along the firewall to keep everything nice and tidy. This way you can get the proper lengths needed to make everything fit.
4) take a roll of electrical tape and slice it from the outside to the center several times around to make short strips. This will speed things up a little rather than have to cut off a short piece you just peel off an already cut strip. I temporarily taped each sensors wire to the last one wired to keep it up out of the way.
5) get a good soldering iron (pencil type)got mine from Walmart its a 25 watt 750 degree iron that works great and it was only $8. Also go by a Radio Shack and get a roll of .050" solder that has a high tin content. $8 also.
I primarily used 18 gauge wire throughout the engine management harness.
6) the guy that initially wired this harness combined almost all of the pink wires into one fat wire that goes to the PCM relay. This simplifies everything and removes a ton of wires.
7) the only wire that goes towards the front of the engine is the crank sensor wires as I routed them down the front and then back to the sensor to keep it away from the headers. Everything else travels along the firewall and branches off from there. The injectors, MAP, MAF, Alt, coils, TPS, IAC and etc. travel along the fuel rails. I dropped the O2 and VSS wires down the back of the engine to also keep them neater and away from any heat source.
There are several ways to wire them in but this is what seemed to work for me. It may not be the best way but so far so good. Of course it has not been tried out yet but as long as the man that unpinned and pinned everything was correct it should. Stay tuned and good luck. If I can be of any help just ask.
06-29-2011, 10:03 PM
#755
Thanks GC99TA!
For those of you who are using the Dynatech headers I have a little more news for you. If you install the headers before installing the starter you will need to file or grind some off of the block to get the starter wedged in there. Once in position you have plenty of room but there is a nub that sticks off of the block that has a hole in it that gets in the way while trying to slide the starter in. Also you will need to get a battery cable that has a 90 degree end on it where it connects to the starter.
For those of you who are using the Dynatech headers I have a little more news for you. If you install the headers before installing the starter you will need to file or grind some off of the block to get the starter wedged in there. Once in position you have plenty of room but there is a nub that sticks off of the block that has a hole in it that gets in the way while trying to slide the starter in. Also you will need to get a battery cable that has a 90 degree end on it where it connects to the starter.
07-01-2011, 12:49 PM
#756
Ok I skipped a few steps and had to try this thing out. All of this work and I have not yet heard it run until now. This is no ****, I turned the motor over without the fuel pump connected at the relay and got the oil pressure to come up. Once that happened I plugged the fuel pump relay back up and cycled it several times to purge any air. You could heard the fuel pump change tones each time it was cycled. I then spun it over and within three rounds it fired. It did not stay running but it fired. The third time I cranked it, it fired and stayed running. It is rich as hell right now prolly due to the start up tune. Once I tie up all of my loose ends its time for a test drive. See what you think.....
http://youtu.be/3o6PSUWPkCs
http://youtu.be/3o6PSUWPkCs
Last edited by tsnow678; 07-01-2011 at 01:40 PM.
