futureuser

iTrader: (1)

Nice work. That cover is much nicer than my plastic painless cover. I would hide my heater hoses too, But I need to run them above the fender to hide my transmission hoses. Also, doesn't help to be a hoser.

LSCustoms

iTrader: (20)

awesome work!

tsnow678

iTrader: (3)

Thanks Futureuser and LSCustoms!! A little update, I installed the S&P water neck and it worked out great (thanks BMF150). I was able to retain the original lower radiator hose. I removed the old heater hose in preparation for the braided stainless lines. I did manage to assemble one end but that was it for the night. Still recovering from the anniversary trip this weekend.


The S&P 15 degree water neck:

[IMG][/IMG]

The neck installed with the original hose:

[IMG][/IMG]

The first braided stainless heater hose attached to its 90 degree fitting. I am not real crazy about the blue and red but it was available and will be hidden once installed.

[IMG][/IMG]

tsnow678

iTrader: (3)

Lessons learned tonight! Trying to fit 10AN hose over a barbed fitting is a challenge. Unlike 5/8" rubber hose that is elastic, the braided stainless line does not want to give up its original shape. I was forced to use the braided up to the heat control valve and rubber line from the valve to the heater coil. I bought some "line finishers" that could be used on an end of braided stainless that gave the appearance of an actual AN fitting where there was no true fitting. They have a hose clamp incorporated that is used to cinch the line but it is hidden so it appears there is no clamp. The problem with the line finshers is the ID is smaller on one end. It is so small it wouldnt go over the barb of the heater control valve. I took the finishers to the lathe and bored them out so there was a smooth finish from both ends. Once the hose was in place I had to force the finsiher over the now swelled line. Given the fact the finisher conceals the clamp, naturally the hose clamp is puny in comparison to a normal hose clamp. After all of that work the clamp would hardly go finger tight before it was overtaxed an stripped. I ended up going with the normal clamp and said to hell with the attention to the details. I tried to push the braided line over the heater coil lines without success. This is why I had to resort to using a short whip of 5/8 rubber line. I did learn something while all this was going on. I always looked at AN lines as some sort of mystery measurement but it is rather simple.

-2AN= 2/16"= 1/8"
-4AN= 4/16"= 1/4"
-6AN= 6/16"= 3/8"
-8AN= 8/16"= 1/2"
-10AN= 10/16"= 5/8"
-12AN= 12/16"= 3/4"

This refers to the inside diameter of the hose. After all these years and I never knew this simple formula. What a dumbass I am. I am running by the speed shop tomorrow and grabbing a few things and hopefully by weeks end my car will be road worthy once again.

futureuser

iTrader: (1)

The real reason you didn't know about an fitting size is because anything that is measured in it is usually a rip off and you probably avoided it. I've got a few an fittings on my tranny and power steering lines and I think I am in those lines about $140 or so. But my *** is dumber than yours cause you avoided both those things and will also free up more weight and power.

tsnow678

iTrader: (3)

Your crazy man! At least you are getting some return on investment. And I am $160 into some heater hose and fittings! Man I wish I didnt like cars!!! Why couldnt I took on the hobby of building birdhouses or something!

OldCobraGuy

iTrader: (2)

They do love the price of some of those fittings don't they. I installed a transmission cooler the other day on one of my vehicles. I had almost $80 in four fittings.

By the way...if you want to use AN fittings, you really need to purchase a 37 degree flare tool. I found a GREAT one and bought it. It's by Ridgid and it's one of the best I've seen. Spendy...but worth it.

-TheBandit-

iTrader: (1)

Great attention to detail as always tsnow! The fuse cover looks good. How did you cut the metal and did you bend it on a press break?

I also have a Ridgid 377 flare tool and I love it. I've done dozens of flares on steel tube hydraulic lines and never a leak one.

As far as AN fittings go, consider mixing in some JIC fittings to save money. They are generally only available in steel and essentially compatible with AN fittings. They are much less expensive because they use a less difficult to manufacture thread root. It is a weaker thread shape, but comparing a steel JIC fitting to an aluminum AN fitting, the material strength should outweigh the geometry. Take a read here to understand the differences: http://weislake.com/sig/mucker/an-vs-jic.pdf

For our purposes, I think JIC stuff works fine. I would have used it for some of your heater hose stuff, like the NPT adapters for example - it could have saved a boatload.

tsnow678

iTrader: (3)

Thanks OldCobraGuy and Bandit for the heads up on the flaring tool. Yeah the AN fittings are rather expensive but hopefully worth it. I will check into the JIC's next time the need arises for some fittings, thanks Bandit! The fuse cover was .025" aluminum from Tractor Supply, I cut out the pattern and used a box brake here at work.

95mysticta

iTrader: (4)

Very nice and thought out build... half hour and 54 pages later i got through the build. I was sure this thing by page 30 it would be driving and lots more vids but in time. We just finished up a budget build 96 LT1/T5 swap into a 67 Camaro. Wiring was scary at first once you know what everything is its just time and patience and we got it done and it after we relised we had a relay not wired in properly and 5 min later fired right no issues. Feels damn good and i want to start a build like this now LOL.

Great car i just want to see this thing driving and burnouts!

hookemdevils22

iTrader: (12)

tony, did you install a trinary switch with the VA kit? assuming you did, that just plugs into the dryer orifice in lieu of a binary, right? I didn't do a trinary when I put VA in my goat (it has an electric fan), and I got a binary with my nova kit, though Frank@prodigy ordered (or charged, rather) a trinary (though I'm not sure if it is in one of the other bags).

tsnow678

iTrader: (3)

I am not sure! I have a safety switch on the receiver/dryer but I am not sure what it is. Is there a reason a trinary switch is needed? I remember seeing the word "trinary" in the directions but I am not sure if was an option or what. I will look tonight and see whats what.

tsnow678

iTrader: (3)

Thanks! Yeah I thought this thing should be driveable by page 30 as well. I am just trying to get everything exactly like I want it the first time so maybe I can work on my many other projects while enjoying the fruits of my labor. Of course I will be broke by the time this thing hits the road. Thats great you powered through and finished the LT1 project! Way to hang in there and work through all the troubles these swaps require to get to the end. Let me know when you start another build so I can subscribe to your thread. If I can help in any way just let me know.

-TheBandit-

iTrader: (1)

I only see 27 pages in this thread. If you go to User CP you can incresae the number of posts to display per page. Makes it much easier to find stuff, although I have to say this thread has become epic. Over 1000 replies and currently the top replied post in the conversion & hybrids section - for good reason.

tsnow678

iTrader: (3)

Thanks Bandit I didnt know about the post per page. That sure would come in handy for some threads on here. It would be a lot better than loading so many pages. Yeah my thread has a ton of posts on it and it has helped me get through some tough issues. I have had people from all over chime in to help including yourself. For that I want to thank everyone!!! Some of my posts a minuscule but if it helps just one person I feel the need to post it. I just wish I could converse without going on and on. Im a talker, you should see my two fingers go at the keyboard when I type. My wife makes fun of me for getting on here so much.

A small update: I finally finished my heater hoses tonight, new fuse block bracket paint is drying, I have three more wires to connect for the A/C, the belt is back on and the top radiator hose is back on. Now to make a bracket for the clutch master cylinder, fill it up with water, check for leaks, glue the air intake together, install the battery, put the hood back on and I should be done till I get the A/C charged. Of course the car will need a thorough cleaning and detailing since it hasn't been washed in over a year. I almost want to take a day off of work but will refrain for now.

bmf5150

Looking good!!!

hookemdevils22

iTrader: (12)

here's an instruction sheet from VA, and below is the description from their catalog. I also found this post, which probably sums it up best. It basically cuts out the e-fan when the pressure drops below something like 220 psi, in addition to cutting the compressor signal when the pressure gets too low or too high.

OldCobraGuy

iTrader: (2)

Factory F bodies...and even some other GM vehicles use a trinary switch to help control the fans. Absolutely the worst idea I ever saw. Don't do it. You want the fans working full speed anytime the a/c is on. Anything less and you don't receive optimum heat exchange in the condenser. Just turn the fans on high anytime the a/c is on and call it good. I changed my strategy in my F body and haven't been happier. Made a noticable difference around town in the duct temps. Remember, this was designed for a V5/7 compressor and you aren't running one. Besides, even the variable displacement compressors benefit from full fan speed.

tsnow678

iTrader: (3)

I am using a binary switch. It was sent with the kit. I am however using the A/C signal wire from the PCM that will activate my fans when the air is on.

OldCobraGuy

iTrader: (2)

Perfect