kevmac

iTrader: (1)

Grind out the holes in the frame, that will give you the narrow/wide clearence. thats what I had to do.

tsnow678

iTrader: (3)

Got the remote bleeder in today. Quality product at a great price. Speedway gave me an extra 1/8" NPT to #3 an fitting and 4 extra sealing washers. I purchased it for $29.99 plus $10.86 for shipping. For a total $40.85. I live about an hour away from a sponsor on here and they wanted $49.99 plus tax plus $12.43 shipping for the same part. The total there would have been $66.30. A savings of $25.45. That paid for my pilot bearing and still had some change. Speedway has some great deals on double pass radiators also. I will definately check them out when that time comes.

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tsnow678

iTrader: (3)

Started back on the motor mount relocation. I worked this thing to death trying them right side up without success. So its flipped and switched once again. Well like I stated in a previous entry the drivers side (left) has a hump on the inside of the engine stand. This was interferring with the Energy Suspension mounts upside down. So over to the mill I go. I took an endmill and cut the portion that was protruding out causing the interference. I also left a little wiggle room for the hump. I could have yanked the engine out and modified the engine stand but opted to do the mount. I had to make sure this was going to allow the engine to set down and bolt up. I would have hated to pull everything out, cut the engine stand, weld a plate on the back side to strengthen it back up, grind it smooth, reinstall the engine to find out it didnt fix squat. So this way I could see the end result with only minor labor and risk taking. The drivers side worked like a charm but now the passenger side had some interference. So I yanked that mount off and modified it similar to the drivers side. Except for the center where I had clearanced the drivers side for the hump. The passenger side does not have this hump.

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tsnow678

iTrader: (3)

Here is the drivers side engine stand that was causing my pain. Notice the hump on the back side. Yes where my finger is pointing. This will be modified after I am ready to pull everything back out. Thsi way in the future if the mount needs to be replaced it will be easier. There are a couple of advantages to flipping the mounts upside down. 1) the headers wont hit the mount 2) the A/C will be easier to locate with the adapter out of the way 3) No need for shims or relocation of the engine stands

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tsnow678

iTrader: (3)

Drivers side is in!


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tsnow678

iTrader: (3)

Passenger side is in!! Hells to the yeah!!!!


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tsnow678

iTrader: (3)

Just so you dont think I am bull-shittin' ya. Here we go with proof. No shims, no relocation of the engine stands, no elongating of holes, and I am using the load plates under the Energy Suspension mounts!!! I have everyone on here that has done this swap to thank. You have helped me more than you know. I may not have followed your path but at least I had some outlets to use. The engine is sitting nice and low and is at the proper negative 3 degrees at the trans output shaft. And get this, the rubber bumper on top of the tranny is hitting the underside of the tunnel. Hows that for a perfect fit. Swaptech adapters from Nooks and Tranny off of Ebay for $100. They are thick, strong, and powdercoated with all of the hardware necessary to complete the job. Hell I paid $75 for the mounts. The engine stands are what came on my car. They are the low performance stands. Tall and narrow I believe. Not the ones that came on the 302/350.


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tsnow678

iTrader: (3)

Here is a shot of the clearance at the Moroso #20141 oil pan. I did notch the crossmember but it may have fit without doing that. I doubt it and would prolly not take the chance if I were to do it all over. Next on the list is the tranny crossmember. I will start on that tomorrow. Big worry out of the way getting some bolts through the mounts. I will sleep good tonight!!!


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futureuser

iTrader: (1)

Congrats! I hope to be a few days behind.

Steve68

iTrader: (23)

What are you using for a trans crossmember? everything else looks good,

tsnow678

iTrader: (3)

I have a Trans-Dapt universal cross member. The part number is listed in this thread on #125. I wanted something that I can modify to fit for a reasonable price. This is a 3" drop X-member. I am using the stock TH350 trans mount that has the two holes versus the one stud. I will see tomorrow how this is going to work out. Check back tomorrow for details.

tsnow678

iTrader: (3)

Good luck Futureuser!!

tsnow678

iTrader: (3)

Thanks Steve and Futureuser! Best of luck to the both of you. If I can help you out any let me know. I am not too smart but usually can figure it out eventually.

southpaw0314

iTrader: (5)

beautiful car and awesome work.

gols1go

iTrader: (4)

Did you have any ptv clearance issues with the size cam you have and the large intake valves on the L92's. I have a LQ4 and a great chance to get some L92's. My cam is .595 lift intake and exhaust and I was wondering if I'd have to get reliefs cut into my pistons?

tsnow678

iTrader: (3)

Thanks Southpaw!
Gols1go- I do not have the exact measurement but no clearance issues. You usually don't worry so much bout the intake valve as you would the exhaust valve. The intake is chasing the piston but the piston is chasing the exhaust valve. I had over the recommended .100" clearance at the exhaust. Your LSA will also play a factor in this equation. If two cams spec out the same but have different lobe separation angles the clearance will be different. I have a 112 degree lsa. If you already know about all of this I am sorry for repeating it, I just try to add a little for anyone that doesn't know.

tsnow678

iTrader: (3)

Still in process of making the X-member. I had to mount the headers first. I wanted to make sure that I had clearance for my exhaust before I commited to a final design on the X-member. The headers werent to bad to mount. Of course the right side was simple but the drivers side was a chore. I should have loosened the steering box but I am stubborn. It was lacking a 1/4" from sliding it up. The rear head bolt was causing interference between the header and the steering coupler. I had to turn the wheel so that the rubber coupler was against the header so I could push against it and get some clearance. I ended up lifting that side of the engine about a quarter of an inch and it allowed the header to slip right in. I did run into clearance issues at the shifter tab on the column. I bent it back towards the firewall and all is well. Headers on, engine lowered back down and now the headers are not even in reference with the subframe. To be more specific there was more ground clearance on the drivers side. So I loosened the headers and tweaked them a little to drop the drivers side but it didnt move much. Come to find out the inside tab on the passenger side motor mount was pushing the engine high on the left side(ref. pic #167). I did not notice this prior to tonight. I guess I was just happy the bolt holes lined up. I will modify this when the engine comes back out. So I cheated and lifted the right side of the engine so the gaps at the bolt holes in the motor mounts were even. That took care of the uneven headers, that little bit. Amazing!!! I studied this stupid X-member for prolly an hour or so and finally figured out what I am going to do. I will not explain it but it will use the original bolt holes and will leave plenty of clearance for the exhaust. I will take plenty of pictures when I have it complete. I will snap a few of the headers tomorrow. As for now its off to bed. 4 hours of sleep four days in a row is killing me.

gols1go

iTrader: (4)

My cam specs are 232/232 .595/.595 and the LSA is 114. I am new to this so I really appreciate the info! Did those specs help any?

tsnow678

iTrader: (3)

You will be fine with that cam and 1.7 rocker arms. The stock rockers are 1.7's so no worries there. You have less duration so the valves will not stay open as long and with a 114 LSA you should be even better yet. The tighter the LSA the more clearance issues you will run into. Tighter meaning less. If your cam had a 106 LSA I would be worried. Make sure you get a strong set of springs though. I bought the Patriot Extremes since the valves in these heads are so heavy they need a good spring to overcome the mass. You can get a set of the Patriots for around $255. That comes with Titanium retainers and all other parts necessary to complete the change over.

-TheBandit-

iTrader: (1)

The mounts you are using look like the short & wide style and those stands look like the ones designed for short & wide mounts. Describing your stands as "tall and narrow" is not really appropriate. If anything, they are taller and wider for use with the short & wide motor mounts.

"tall & narrow" describes motor mounts for use with frame stands that are shorter and narrower.

Yes it can be confusing.